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Old 07-25-2012, 11:20 PM
  #17296  
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Originally Posted by Limywidget
I am looking for servo horns with a 25t spline. Which Hudy horns will work for throttle/brake and which one for steering? I bought a double horn for thr/brake but it did not have the standoff that is needed.

TIA
I have always used these Hudy ones..i fact..still my first set lol

throttle
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...rion-Savox-ACE

steering
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...taba-Orion-ACE


the hudy horns are a tight fit on most servos..i use them on Savox but they look the part and are super strong.
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Old 07-26-2012, 07:29 AM
  #17297  
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Originally Posted by Sideshow Bob
I have always used these Hudy ones..i fact..still my first set lol

throttle
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...rion-Savox-ACE

steering
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...taba-Orion-ACE


the hudy horns are a tight fit on most servos..i use them on Savox but they look the part and are super strong.

Thanks Sideshow!!
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Old 07-28-2012, 06:18 AM
  #17298  
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hey dudes, this dynamite throttle linkage is awlsome, thanks slideshow.
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Old 07-29-2012, 04:41 AM
  #17299  
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Default rear setup??

does anyone have a rear setup suggestion,
on my mbx6 +5chassis i am running forward battery I think I have 10-7-3 and 35 weight and ride height 30r28f in the rear the car is fast but is very twithcy in the rear I am fighting it all the time one small bump and it upsets the car always, its feels as if the back of the car is to light? as it jumps around alot if anyone has a good setup for the rear to settle the car down that would be great as i am sure the car can go alot quicker if it settles down
cheers
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Old 07-29-2012, 07:02 AM
  #17300  
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Originally Posted by aussies1129
does anyone have a rear setup suggestion,
on my mbx6 +5chassis i am running forward battery I think I have 10-7-3 and 35 weight and ride height 30r28f in the rear the car is fast but is very twithcy in the rear I am fighting it all the time one small bump and it upsets the car always, its feels as if the back of the car is to light? as it jumps around alot if anyone has a good setup for the rear to settle the car down that would be great as i am sure the car can go alot quicker if it settles down
cheers
I run 7-10-5 for the diffs and 50f 45r and 8 spring in the front and 8.25 rear. Sounds like to me you may be a little to soft in the rear. just my .2
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Old 07-29-2012, 08:01 AM
  #17301  
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Originally Posted by aussies1129
does anyone have a rear setup suggestion,
on my mbx6 +5chassis i am running forward battery I think I have 10-7-3 and 35 weight and ride height 30r28f in the rear the car is fast but is very twithcy in the rear I am fighting it all the time one small bump and it upsets the car always, its feels as if the back of the car is to light? as it jumps around alot if anyone has a good setup for the rear to settle the car down that would be great as i am sure the car can go alot quicker if it settles down
cheers
This is what I run on my 6R usa spec, it's very fast and stable. I have a 60 gram lipo in the rear. Running the battery up front
makes the car too twitchy, that might be good for the first 10 or so minutes of a main but after that mental fatigue can start setting in and a twitchy car can make for a horrible time because it can be so difficult to drive fast.

Vic Slider Fernald MBX6R 2012.pdf

Last edited by Slider30250; 07-29-2012 at 08:05 AM. Reason: Added info.
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Old 07-29-2012, 08:04 AM
  #17302  
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Originally Posted by aussies1129
does anyone have a rear setup suggestion,
on my mbx6 +5chassis i am running forward battery I think I have 10-7-3 and 35 weight and ride height 30r28f in the rear the car is fast but is very twithcy in the rear I am fighting it all the time one small bump and it upsets the car always, its feels as if the back of the car is to light? as it jumps around alot if anyone has a good setup for the rear to settle the car down that would be great as i am sure the car can go alot quicker if it settles down
cheers
try 5-7-3 (f,c,r), put the battery back in the box, white pistons, 40 and 35 wt losi oil (f&r), and 27-28 ride height (f&r). the silver 8.0 springs up front and either the 8.75 or 8.5 springs in the rear.
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Old 07-29-2012, 10:46 AM
  #17303  
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Originally Posted by aussies1129
does anyone have a rear setup suggestion,
on my mbx6 +5chassis i am running forward battery I think I have 10-7-3 and 35 weight and ride height 30r28f in the rear the car is fast but is very twithcy in the rear I am fighting it all the time one small bump and it upsets the car always, its feels as if the back of the car is to light? as it jumps around alot if anyone has a good setup for the rear to settle the car down that would be great as i am sure the car can go alot quicker if it settles down
cheers
Try 4000 rear diff or 5.7.5. Also could be shock setup. Light oils can cause chassis slapping. Hitting ruts formed by 1/8 cars over the day happen and can make you loose control just by over correcting. I ran the same oils in diff you are at a track I never been to and my rear end was just real bad exiting tight turns. I thought the diff set up was good all around till then. Maybe give 5.7.5 or 7.7.5 a shot.
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Old 07-29-2012, 07:31 PM
  #17304  
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Has anyone used this air filter oil?
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...r-Fluid-SWWAFF
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Old 07-29-2012, 08:37 PM
  #17305  
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Regarding fuel tank issues and previous changes in post 17288.

Well after trying all of those steps to fix the fuel tank issue, it was still there. Just to test it, I even changed different engines again. This is just odd as both engines, once warmed up, will run great but as soon as I fill it back up from almost being empty, then it richens up dramatically and usually flames out.
Even after we restart motor and get it running then it takes a good 10-15 seconds of blurping and almost flooring it to get to stay running and then finally be able to race again out of pit lane.

Now here is something odd. After that I was again a little pissed off. I tore off all of the fuel lines with the excess runs and then I ran a very short pressure line from pipe to gas (seriously short) plus my normal short fuel line run to carb. Mounted back on my O.S. Speed motor and it fired right up wth no odd idling and during the A-Main pit stops there ws no flameout issue. Hmmm.

So could it be the Werks B6 Pro and Mugen JX21 both have issues and O.S. speed was fine? About to go crazy (well more then normal, LOL).


After seeing much discussion about a fuel tank clunk mod, I do not see how that would resolve pit lane flame out issue, as I can flip over and my engine will idle fine without flaming out or leaning out (easily 15-20 seonds), using normal tank with no clunk. Regardng the flame out in the pits how would the fuel tank clunk mod really help at all on that issue?
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Old 07-29-2012, 11:04 PM
  #17306  
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My buggy was doing the exact same thing with an Alpha F-850 on it. When that motor was in my RC8.2 I never had a single flame out. Very strange and I guess a sign of things to come.
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Old 07-30-2012, 01:47 PM
  #17307  
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Can someone tell me the inner bore size of the shock body and outer diameter of the piston
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Old 07-30-2012, 02:21 PM
  #17308  
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Originally Posted by revo61
Has anyone used this air filter oil?
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...r-Fluid-SWWAFF
It is foam filter oil so in going to say it will be just fine. I use kal gard foam filter oil in a can.
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Old 07-30-2012, 02:57 PM
  #17309  
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Originally Posted by TIX
Can someone tell me the inner bore size of the shock body and outer diameter of the piston
Well they are 15mm bore shocks so the I.D. should be 15mm. I got 14.98 for O.D on a brand new piston.
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Old 07-30-2012, 03:34 PM
  #17310  
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Originally Posted by Rock333
Well they are 15mm bore shocks so the I.D. should be 15mm. I got 14.98 for O.D on a brand new piston.
Cheers
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