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Mugen MBX6

Old 03-09-2012, 01:12 PM
  #15796  
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MUGEN.........
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Old 03-09-2012, 01:20 PM
  #15797  
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Originally Posted by diamonddawg21
What shock springs does the MBX6R come with in the new kits?
E0571 Front Damper Spring φ1.5/8.25T
E0576 Rear Damper Spring φ1.5/8.25T
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Old 03-09-2012, 02:44 PM
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Originally Posted by Donat
Hi everyone,

I have just bought a Mugen MBX6 and having read that there is a common problem with taking out the steering post screws I decided to deal with it at home and not at the race...
I warmed up the screw before trying to remove it and used brand new hex tips. None the less the screw stripped.

Here's the picture of current situation.

Do you have any advice on how to remove it?
+1 on the above posted fix.

I've stripped a few screws on my Mugen, especially the button head and countersunk screws that are loctited. Is this common or is it just me applying a little too much torque?

The screws seem to not have that much area/material to bite on to.
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Old 03-09-2012, 05:17 PM
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I bought a used car and just tried to remove the top plate.....nope......same thing as picture above except I didnt strip the screw but its NOT coming out so Im not gonna fool with it....I ordered a complete new servo saver kit for like $22 on ebay and gonna swap it all out, I wont have that problem again. Is the problem that people are just using too much threadlok? Thats what it seems like.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/220971608602...84.m1497.l2649
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Old 03-09-2012, 05:57 PM
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Originally Posted by chad bradley
I'll try to get a pic up asap.

But its super easy to do, you just need 2mm worth of steel warshers for each side of the rack where it bolts to the plastic steering bell cranks and you may need 2 screws that are slightly longer than the stock. The washers go below the steering rack, between the rack and bell crank.
Here are a few pics of what Chad is talking about for the 2mm bump steer mod.. Jump in chad if this isnt the right way.. The mod is the 2mm red washer.
Attached Thumbnails Mugen MBX6-003.jpg   Mugen MBX6-004.jpg   Mugen MBX6-005.jpg  
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Old 03-09-2012, 07:18 PM
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help with this mod ?

Last edited by juninho_foz; 03-10-2012 at 04:57 AM.
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Old 03-10-2012, 07:58 AM
  #15802  
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Originally Posted by Sideshow Bob
Oooooh ok, makes sense, im on the GF's ipad
Originally Posted by HandleITrc.com
Sometimes, it will not pull up the info on a mobile device(iphone).

Just throwing it out there.
If you get the Adobe Reader app you can open it on the iPhone and sure its the same with the iPad!!
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Old 03-10-2012, 08:14 AM
  #15803  
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Originally Posted by whiskyshooter
Here are a few pics of what Chad is talking about for the 2mm bump steer mod.. Jump in chad if this isnt the right way.. The mod is the 2mm red washer.
thanks for posting, thats exactly what you do to take some bump steer out at full compression. if you run an extream amount of down travel doing this mod will make the car bump steer more at full DOWN travel than if you were to leave the rack stock, but I didnt notice a change using 108-109mm down travel (measuring bolt to bolt). If Mugen wants to completly take bump steer out they would need move the bell cranks more toward the center of the car by a few mm and a shorter steering rack. However Mugen designs bump steer into thier cars. I just think for USA style tracks where we have woops and jumps that are consecutive (double double, double tripple etc.) taking some bump steer out makes the car more consistent.
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Old 03-10-2012, 08:16 AM
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you maybe able to lift the rack 3mm, I just havnt got that far yet. just be careful if you go to high the rack could get real close to the upper front arm.
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Old 03-10-2012, 08:39 AM
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I finally managed to remove the screw from steering post. Took only 4h total...
I used the method you posted. Worked this time but there is only ~1mm of the screw to grab with pliers so I'm not sure if it guarantees success every time. I warmed the post with a torch and was lucky enough to remove the screw.

Is there any aftermarket steering post to replace the stupid stock one? I wouldn't like to repeat the whole procedure every time I have to e.g. change the bearings and I'm affraid that it is likely to happen...

Any mods here?

Thank you again for your help!
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Old 03-10-2012, 09:05 AM
  #15806  
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Originally Posted by Ross71
E0571 Front Damper Spring φ1.5/8.25T
E0576 Rear Damper Spring φ1.5/8.25T
Thank you sir
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Old 03-10-2012, 10:09 AM
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Originally Posted by Donat
I finally managed to remove the screw from steering post. Took only 4h total...
I used the method you posted. Worked this time but there is only ~1mm of the screw to grab with pliers so I'm not sure if it guarantees success every time. I warmed the post with a torch and was lucky enough to remove the screw.

Is there any aftermarket steering post to replace the stupid stock one? I wouldn't like to repeat the whole procedure every time I have to e.g. change the bearings and I'm affraid that it is likely to happen...

Any mods here?

Thank you again for your help!


Use 2.5mm hex cap head screws, i know there not counter sunk but they will over come the problem you have.

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Old 03-11-2012, 06:21 AM
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That should help to solve the stripped out upper screw problem, but in my opinion the bigger problem occurs when the lower screw loosens first... Is there any other solution than tightening the lower screw much harder than the upper one?
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Old 03-11-2012, 08:42 AM
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should'nt be an issue if you dont threadlok it up like crazy...

My situation was just WAY too much threadlok used on the screws of top plate/steering posts, I have NEVER threadlok'd those top plate/steering post screws on any gascar I have ran, only from the lower/chassis side have I used threadlok on steering posts.

are most people running the rear cnc brace simply to eliminate flex? I see most setup sheets from Factory Drivers are running molded, what is your personal experience with the rear braces and which do you prefer?
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Old 03-11-2012, 09:03 AM
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Originally Posted by Trevor Williams

are most people running the rear cnc brace simply to eliminate flex? I see most setup sheets from Factory Drivers are running molded, what is your personal experience with the rear braces and which do you prefer?
On loose tracks, the rear aluminum brace doesn't allow enough flex and you loose rear traction. The longer molded brace is much better if you want the rear end to be more planted.
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