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Tamiya mini cooper

Old 09-15-2015, 02:02 PM
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Originally Posted by axle182
My apologies, I copied that from a long post from a while back.

Front Camber - 0-1 deg
Front Droop - 0-1mm
Rear Droop - 2-3mm
Thank you.
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Old 09-15-2015, 02:23 PM
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Have a search for Tamiya part number 53345, it was an optional 2 deg rear hub for the M03. Plastic part so about a tenth the cost of alloy.

The alloy options are

54327 Alloy 1.0 deg rear hub.
54178 Alloy 1.5 deg rear hub.
54267 Alloy 2.0 deg rear hub.

You also have 54532 which is the alloy suspension mount which gives an additional 1.0 degree toe in over the standard plastic part which is 0 deg.
-Thanks!
Yes, I was curious about the stock plastic hubs ...as I no longer have mine.
Since I am used to racing w/ 3degree toe in on the rear, I am going to try 1.5 ...rather than go to zero, at least for the immediate. I ordered some 1.5 alloy hubs. So will try those out.
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Old 09-15-2015, 03:04 PM
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Eric, if you have plenty of grip on the track surface or with your tyres, try using the stock plastic 0 degree rear hubs.
They will make the rear rotate quicker when you come into a corner/give you more steering, should give you a bit more top end, the trade off is a lack of straight line stability.
You can adjust the front to have a bit more toe out to gain some stability back.
I have used 0 toe on a grippy track in hot weather and it worked well, but most of the time I just use 2 degree plastic toe in, or 2 degree alloy toe in.

As you mentioned in your post, there is definitely a sweet spot in regards to camber. Some tyres it's 1 degree negative, others it's 2 degree negative, or anywhere in between, it's something you'll have to play with to get right for your tyre and track conditions. If you're using the adjustable upper links on the rear, even a 0.1 or 0.2 shim can make all the difference in finding that sweet spot.
2 degree plastic toe in? Where do you get a plastic hub?
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Old 09-15-2015, 05:22 PM
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Parts tree 51393 from the m05 kit has 2 degree toe in hubs.
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Old 09-15-2015, 07:09 PM
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Got the Vulcan 21.5 wired up to my V2. Smoother than the Sonic, but not as smooth as Thunderpower. I'm not entirely happy, but it's fine for now. Will tune the suspension a little more.

Thinking about yanking the GTB3 and Vulcan off the V2 and get a TC, put the TBLE02-S back on the chassis + a fan, and run Thunderpower 21.5.
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Old 09-15-2015, 08:37 PM
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Did you optimize the gtb3 setup for mini racing, and does the Vulcan have a 12.3mm rotor for more Rpms????? Timing cranked up yet???
Originally Posted by sakadachi
Got the Vulcan 21.5 wired up to my V2. Smoother than the Sonic, but not as smooth as Thunderpower. I'm not entirely happy, but it's fine for now. Will tune the suspension a little more.

Thinking about yanking the GTB3 and Vulcan off the V2 and get a TC, put the TBLE02-S back on the chassis + a fan, and run Thunderpower 21.5.
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Old 09-16-2015, 03:36 AM
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The TL01/M03 2 degree toe in blocks no.53345 ... or as Jim has pointed out the M05 stock rear uprights ... and if you prefer to run the 1050 size bearings, you can use 51238 M03M F-parts.
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Old 09-16-2015, 03:40 AM
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Speaking of bearings, how many of you have tried using part no. 54426?
Those 850 size bearings spin forever ... you need to be running stock M05 plastic uprights front and rear though.
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Old 09-16-2015, 04:51 AM
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In a TCS race what diff's are legal?
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Old 09-16-2015, 05:20 AM
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This is a question for those of you who have used the 3Racing oil gear diff.

I have used one for a while now with good results, but the outdrives were way too soft and chewed up the plastic drive shaft caps.

I was advised to replace them with the hardened version. These look like much better quality but the slot is too narrow for the plastic drive shaft cap. Without the cap there is a small amount play.

Is it ok to run these outdrives without the plastic caps or will the driveshaft chew up the outdrives because of the metal on metal contact?
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Old 09-16-2015, 05:29 AM
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Originally Posted by filippimini
This is a question for those of you who have used the 3Racing oil gear diff.

I have used one for a while now with good results, but the outdrives were way too soft and chewed up the plastic drive shaft caps.

I was advised to replace them with the hardened version. These look like much better quality but the slot is too narrow for the plastic drive shaft cap. Without the cap there is a small amount play.

Is it ok to run these outdrives without the plastic caps or will the driveshaft chew up the outdrives because of the metal on metal contact?
I believe that is how the hardened outdrives are designed to work, with no drive shaft 'blade' (I think that is what the plastic drive shaft pin protector is called). They will wear the pins on the drive shafts, but its much better than splitting a blade, and ruining a outdrive. The issue here is, once you wear a std outdrive, you will continue to wreck blades, and the outdrive will get worse.
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Old 09-16-2015, 05:54 AM
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Originally Posted by bertrandsv87
Did you optimize the gtb3 setup for mini racing, and does the Vulcan have a 12.3mm rotor for more Rpms????? Timing cranked up yet???
I did set up the GTB3 per my other ESC's that I run on m-chassis. As for rotors, I've not changed it. The RPM at its factory 30 degrees is a tad slower than the Thunderpower's 20degrees, but it's not so much the speed that bothers me. It's the sudden kick in torque around 25-35% throttle coming out of corners. It was horrible on the Sonic, the Vulcan is better. I think on a 4WD car it would work just fine.
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Old 09-16-2015, 09:02 AM
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Originally Posted by Tim K
Speaking of bearings, how many of you have tried using part no. 54426?
Those 850 size bearings spin forever ... you need to be running stock M05 plastic uprights front and rear though.
Good trick! Hadn't heard that one yet. I can use this on my M03. I'm running the old alloy uprights that use 1150 bearings.

Originally Posted by Emaculant
In a TCS race what diff's are legal?
Tamiya diffs. I'm not being a smartass.
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Old 09-16-2015, 09:19 AM
  #25664  
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Parts tree 51393 from the m05 kit has 2 degree toe in hubs.
-Thanks MonkeyRacing
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Old 09-16-2015, 09:37 AM
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Originally Posted by eR1c
-Thanks MonkeyRacing
You'll just have to squint to see which one is which. Marked below the axle, on the outside, deep between a pair of reinforcing ribs.
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