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Tamiya mini cooper

Old 08-26-2015, 07:58 PM
  #25501  
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Originally Posted by aclark092
Hey Guys, I have been watching this thread for a while now and wanted to get one of these M05s. The first night I looked on ebay i saw the one I bought. I have been in and out of RC a few times over the last few years with off/on road and crawlers, but this is my first Tamiya. Hopefully I didnt snag this from any of you guys! ;-) I plan on doing some racing, but the closest track racing the M05 near me is 2 hours away. I wanted something "cheap" to run. I do have a couple of questions. The car comes with a lot of 3Racing parts (dampers, steering parts, rear hubs). Would you swap it out with Tamiya or is 3Racing decent? I am not familiar with thier products.
Check with the track you're going to run it on
Some (most) of the tracks we've been at that race Minis run Tamiya rules
with a spec tire. Mostly 60D's (radials)
The 3Racing parts are fine. Just check with someone from the track to make sure that you don't get DQ'ed before racing your first lap!
Keep us informed of your progress and Good Luck with it
and most importantly
Welcome to the Crazy World of Mini Racing!
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Old 08-26-2015, 09:28 PM
  #25502  
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Originally Posted by caltek1
...
OSherman,
Congratulations on your great result. I tried the shocks on the hinge pin mounts, but found the car to roll to much when using Ride Inch ups. Perhaps I should persist more on getting it to work, however I did not like how the car responded. What wheelbase did you run? Mwb and Swift body?

....
Calvin
I ran the medium w/b and the CRX body.
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Old 08-26-2015, 11:25 PM
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Originally Posted by aclark092
Hey Guys, I have been watching this thread for a while now and wanted to get one of these M05s. The first night I looked on ebay i saw the one I bought. I have been in and out of RC a few times over the last few years with off/on road and crawlers, but this is my first Tamiya. Hopefully I didnt snag this from any of you guys! ;-) I plan on doing some racing, but the closest track racing the M05 near me is 2 hours away. I wanted something "cheap" to run. I do have a couple of questions. The car comes with a lot of 3Racing parts (dampers, steering parts, rear hubs). Would you swap it out with Tamiya or is 3Racing decent? I am not familiar with thier products.
Welcome to our little world. I only have a few 3Racing bits, but they seem to be quality parts.
I like them better than Yeah Racing (). I believe a lot of folks here run the 3Racing diffs with success.

Originally Posted by monkeyracing
That's exactly what I said. "I ran an o-ring under the shock to stop it compressing too far, allowing the car to bottom out." Different words, same thing.
I'm not arguing here, but o-rings compress under extreme conditions (which occurs at full bump) and can lead to chassis bottoming out. This is why I mentioned I use plastic spacers instead. Push down the chassis, then push it down even further with more force. If your chassis does not scrape (2mm clearance) it's probably good.
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Old 08-26-2015, 11:27 PM
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Anyone lurking that might want to grab a souped up M05 with fresh unpainted body, check this out!

http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...axxed-out.html
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Old 08-27-2015, 12:47 AM
  #25505  
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Thankyou for the reply OSherman. I have not tried that bodyshell. As we do not run to TCS rules the body of choice is the Blitz GTI .
Good luck in Japan.

Jim,
I will have to check what shafts I have in my shocks. With the amount of mini shocks available now, I sometimes forget which ones I am using. I do run zero rebound and have nothing above the diaphragm. I normally build my shocks according to the TRF instructions, except deviate on spring and oil suggestion.

I need to try the new big bore shocks and see if they are any smoother. They are in my spares, but like most things unbuilt, new in packet.

I get to test my three minis this weekend in Newcastle, so I hope they are all solid. The TOP has the noisest gear set I have come across. Sounds like a banshee attack.

Anyway, have fun racing.

Later,
50 Cal
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Old 08-27-2015, 01:09 AM
  #25506  
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Originally Posted by aclark092
Hey Guys, I have been watching this thread for a while now and wanted to get one of these M05s. The first night I looked on ebay i saw the one I bought. I have been in and out of RC a few times over the last few years with off/on road and crawlers, but this is my first Tamiya. Hopefully I didnt snag this from any of you guys! ;-) I plan on doing some racing, but the closest track racing the M05 near me is 2 hours away. I wanted something "cheap" to run. I do have a couple of questions. The car comes with a lot of 3Racing parts (dampers, steering parts, rear hubs). Would you swap it out with Tamiya or is 3Racing decent? I am not familiar with thier products.
Nice car. I run that FRS/Subaru body too. If you are new and want some added protection, install the 3racing bumper mount and attach a TRF 417 bumper to it.
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Old 08-27-2015, 02:48 AM
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Looks like Tamiya is releasing a Mazda Roadster body. Really hoping this is the classic and not the newer, pointier one.
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Old 08-27-2015, 03:20 AM
  #25508  
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Questions??

Hi all.

Can I expect to see any differences between body shells in terms or speed or stability? In my particular circumstance it's indoor racing on carpet running brushed Mardave G2 24t motors on NIMH cells, so not massive speed.

I run at 210mm and currently use the Montech Turbo Spidi shell. Cant say I've noticed any difference from my classic Mini shell though...

Cheers!
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Old 08-27-2015, 05:25 AM
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Originally Posted by KA2AEV
Check with the track you're going to run it on
Some (most) of the tracks we've been at that race Minis run Tamiya rules
with a spec tire. Mostly 60D's (radials)
The 3Racing parts are fine. Just check with someone from the track to make sure that you don't get DQ'ed before racing your first lap!
Keep us informed of your progress and Good Luck with it
and most importantly
Welcome to the Crazy World of Mini Racing!
Thanks! I am pretty excited. The track that runs them does not follow TCS rules, but I do want to slowly convert it over to a V2 and be legal for TCS events should I want to travel to Jackson RC in NJ. I never really bought the chinese/hong kong parts, so I had plans of getting the black tamiya aluminum kit while they are available. I will be getting a few Mini bodies. My brother daily drives a 2006 Mini Cooper S, and I am looking to start my classic mini project with a Honda B18 swap!
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Old 08-27-2015, 06:44 AM
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Originally Posted by Boons
Hi all.

Can I expect to see any differences between body shells in terms or speed or stability? In my particular circumstance it's indoor racing on carpet running brushed Mardave G2 24t motors on NIMH cells, so not massive speed.

I run at 210mm and currently use the Montech Turbo Spidi shell. Cant say I've noticed any difference from my classic Mini shell though...

Cheers!
I have a 911 210mm body that I tried for kicks. It was noticeably more stable through the turns than the Rover Mini bodies I run on all my m-chassis. There is a difference if you get the lower roof line bodies. I think someone mention they run a BRZ body even though real BRZ's are RWD..

For me though, m-chassis is for fun so the comical shape of the Mini body is what I like.
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Old 08-27-2015, 08:52 AM
  #25511  
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Body shape makes a big difference. The mini cooper body has the worst shape of them all... The Honda crx has the correct shape, as does the blitz C30... Combine shape with a big weight loss, and you have the best body for mini racing...
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Old 08-27-2015, 09:05 AM
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lol, you going to chime in here Ivan? Ivan has won championships with an old truck body, with a damn flag hanging off the back....
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Old 08-27-2015, 09:07 AM
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Originally Posted by Boons
Hi all.

Can I expect to see any differences between body shells in terms or speed or stability? In my particular circumstance it's indoor racing on carpet running brushed Mardave G2 24t motors on NIMH cells, so not massive speed.

I run at 210mm and currently use the Montech Turbo Spidi shell. Cant say I've noticed any difference from my classic Mini shell though...

Cheers!

With 24 turn motors, you won't notice much of a difference in aerodynamics. Guys i race with have flags, doll heads, instant noodles, hanging off the top of their car, and we run a spec 2200kv motor. Where you MIGHT notice a difference is in how the weight transfers. As mentioned earlier, a low profile body (miata, FRS/BRZ, volvo, etc) will have a lower cg versus a suzuki swift, scion cube, or austin mini. Some use this high cg as a tuning option. Others simply run stuff on the bodies because its fun and crowd pleasing.
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Old 08-27-2015, 09:10 AM
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The truck bed actually lowers the CG vs the high mini cooper roof... If the front of the truck is slanted a bit, it will cut the wind perfectly with no rear drag, hence the better performance....
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Old 08-27-2015, 10:03 AM
  #25515  
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Boons View Post
Hi all.

Can I expect to see any differences between body shells in terms or speed or stability? In my particular circumstance it's indoor racing on carpet running brushed Mardave G2 24t motors on NIMH cells, so not massive speed.

I run at 210mm and currently use the Montech Turbo Spidi shell. Cant say I've noticed any difference from my classic Mini shell though...

Cheers!

With 24 turn motors, you won't notice much of a difference in aerodynamics. Guys i race with have flags, doll heads, instant noodles, hanging off the top of their car, and we run a spec 2200kv motor. Where you MIGHT notice a difference is in how the weight transfers. As mentioned earlier, a low profile body (miata, FRS/BRZ, volvo, etc) will have a lower cg versus a suzuki swift, scion cube, or austin mini. Some use this high cg as a tuning option. Others simply run stuff on the bodies because its fun and crowd pleasing.
Actually the bodies make a HUGE difference, at slow and fast speeds.
I race using TCS rules, so only have experience w/ the Tamiya bodies. But here is what I found. There are three different body sizes to fit short, medium, and long wheelbase. You'll want to select a chassis length that best suits your track (usually short wheelbase or medium for a slower/tight turn track and medium to long wheelbase for a faster/less tight turns track). Once you determine the body size there are differences in body height and body weight. For example, the "Tamiya Mini" bodies tend to be a bit more top heavy whereas the "Tamiya Honda S800 body" is not top heavy. I a guessing that like most you'll want a lower center of gravity, -so consider that when selecting a body. Also, there is the issue of being able to lower your body over the wheels to further lower the center of gravity. Bodies like the Tamiya Mini body have wheel arches that don't allow you to lower the body very much (otherwise the tires will rub the wheel arches). However a body like the Tamiya JCW mini cooper will allow you to lower the body pretty much to the ground over the wheels. This is advantageous for a low center of gravity. Also if your running a higher turn motor (slower motor) then the weight of the body is of huge importance (or it should be to you). Some bodies weight more than others. For example I found that the Tamiya Mini body weighs less than the Tamiya JCW body (as the JCW has metal spacers and hardware for the rear wing). --this adds weight. When your running a higher turn motor weight really comes in to play ...save weight and your car will go faster. In my opinion aerodynamics do make a difference even at lower speeds.

My current setup is a long wheelbase with the Tamiya JCW body, yet i've tried most all of the Tamiya bodies. My favorite for short wheelbase was the Honda S800 (it allowed me to slam the body to the ground over the tires for a low center of gravity). I also run my bodies w/o any of the Tamiya plastic accessories (side view mirrors, headlight rings, etc) to save weight (and this is TCS legal).

hope that helps.
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