eR1c

iTrader: (2)

Hey Antlockyer,

This may be obvious, but did you use the Tamiya pinion guide when you installed your pinion on your motor?

sakadachi

iTrader: (1)

I'll give this a shot next time, thanks.

Rozzy

iTrader: (1)

Do you do this to all the gears very curious how much you chamfer the edges. Any chance you have a pic Thanks

(0000000000)

iTrader: (2)

http://www.rcmart.com/yeah-racing-mg...Path=1293_1307

antlockyer

Long story.

When I built the kit I used it.
First race I had issues that sounded like loose pinion.
Guy and the track took the motor out for me and reinstalled the pinion using the guide.
Still didn't work, made weird sounds and had no drive.
If turned out that even using the guide it wasn't mating up properly.
I installed the pinion on the shaft with the gearbox apart so I could get it to exactly where it needed to be.
I'd done this a little wonky (it is right on the end of the shaft) so moved it down a mm and straightened it up.

antlockyer

I'm using short at the moment which I'm about to change once I get my new shell painted. That will be medium. The two tracks I race at are very different, one being super tight, the other a lot faster. I think medium will be the best compromise.

As I have no adjusters I guess ride height is the only way I can adjust camber.

sakadachi

iTrader: (1)

I make my own camber rods as I am not bound by any track rules or regulations.

Quick example on my M-Four..

http://www.rctech.net/forum/members/...our-camber.jpg

M03...

http://www.rctech.net/forum/members/...amber-arms.jpg

and I can't find a picture of my M05 where I made the rear adjusters.. lol

antlockyer

I'll have a look at the car later and see what I have in my box of bits.

elecsual

iTrader: (7)

All you need to make adjustable camber links is 5mm short balls, some short adjusters and some 8mm set screws. Consider adding shims between the ball cups so if you get bumped or hit a board, they are less likely to jump a thread. I found that 0.5mm shim will change the camber by roughly 0.5 degree if you are around 2 degrees of negative camber.

eR1c

iTrader: (2)

The other thing to adjust to remove twitchyness is the toe-in front and rear.

For the rear toe-in I don't remember what the default plastic hubs are set at, but try playing w/ after market hubs if you can.

Yeah, the medium wheelbase should feel a bit more stable. I ran the short wheelbase for an entire season, switched to long and was like dang ...what a difference!

eR1c

iTrader: (2)

As for cutting the gears, ...what I did and found to work really well was to use some 1000 grit sand paper and lightly sand off the hard edges. I did this to all the plastic gearing. Just do it a little, to take off the hard edge on each tooth. After, clean w/ soap and water, let dry then lightly coat w/ a very fine spray of silicone. -use very sparingly.

Others may have other suggestions..

AngryRog

iTrader: (20)

Let the rotor "tuning" begin... That is all.

k_bojar

iTrader: (30)

anyone??

(0000000000)

iTrader: (2)

M grips all around

Yellow front springs
Blue rear springs
Thin rear swaybar
Mount battery in rear position.

I found s grips to give slightly better traction, at the cost of replacing them much sooner.

monkeyracing

iTrader: (10)

One of my favourite pics. A classic.