295LikesTamiya mini cooper
09-15-2015 | 02:23 PM
Have a search for Tamiya part number 53345, it was an optional 2 deg rear hub for the M03. Plastic part so about a tenth the cost of alloy.
The alloy options are
54327 Alloy 1.0 deg rear hub.
54178 Alloy 1.5 deg rear hub.
54267 Alloy 2.0 deg rear hub.
You also have 54532 which is the alloy suspension mount which gives an additional 1.0 degree toe in over the standard plastic part which is 0 deg.
The alloy options are
54327 Alloy 1.0 deg rear hub.
54178 Alloy 1.5 deg rear hub.
54267 Alloy 2.0 deg rear hub.
You also have 54532 which is the alloy suspension mount which gives an additional 1.0 degree toe in over the standard plastic part which is 0 deg.
Yes, I was curious about the stock plastic hubs ...as I no longer have mine.
Since I am used to racing w/ 3degree toe in on the rear, I am going to try 1.5 ...rather than go to zero, at least for the immediate. I ordered some 1.5 alloy hubs. So will try those out.
09-15-2015 | 03:04 PM
Eric, if you have plenty of grip on the track surface or with your tyres, try using the stock plastic 0 degree rear hubs.
They will make the rear rotate quicker when you come into a corner/give you more steering, should give you a bit more top end, the trade off is a lack of straight line stability.
You can adjust the front to have a bit more toe out to gain some stability back.
I have used 0 toe on a grippy track in hot weather and it worked well, but most of the time I just use 2 degree plastic toe in, or 2 degree alloy toe in.
As you mentioned in your post, there is definitely a sweet spot in regards to camber. Some tyres it's 1 degree negative, others it's 2 degree negative, or anywhere in between, it's something you'll have to play with to get right for your tyre and track conditions. If you're using the adjustable upper links on the rear, even a 0.1 or 0.2 shim can make all the difference in finding that sweet spot.
They will make the rear rotate quicker when you come into a corner/give you more steering, should give you a bit more top end, the trade off is a lack of straight line stability.
You can adjust the front to have a bit more toe out to gain some stability back.
I have used 0 toe on a grippy track in hot weather and it worked well, but most of the time I just use 2 degree plastic toe in, or 2 degree alloy toe in.
As you mentioned in your post, there is definitely a sweet spot in regards to camber. Some tyres it's 1 degree negative, others it's 2 degree negative, or anywhere in between, it's something you'll have to play with to get right for your tyre and track conditions. If you're using the adjustable upper links on the rear, even a 0.1 or 0.2 shim can make all the difference in finding that sweet spot.
09-15-2015 | 07:09 PM
Got the Vulcan 21.5 wired up to my V2. Smoother than the Sonic, but not as smooth as Thunderpower. I'm not entirely happy, but it's fine for now. Will tune the suspension a little more.
Thinking about yanking the GTB3 and Vulcan off the V2 and get a TC, put the TBLE02-S back on the chassis + a fan, and run Thunderpower 21.5.
Thinking about yanking the GTB3 and Vulcan off the V2 and get a TC, put the TBLE02-S back on the chassis + a fan, and run Thunderpower 21.5.
09-15-2015 | 08:37 PM
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 8,404
Did you optimize the gtb3 setup for mini racing, and does the Vulcan have a 12.3mm rotor for more Rpms????? Timing cranked up yet???
Got the Vulcan 21.5 wired up to my V2. Smoother than the Sonic, but not as smooth as Thunderpower. I'm not entirely happy, but it's fine for now. Will tune the suspension a little more.
Thinking about yanking the GTB3 and Vulcan off the V2 and get a TC, put the TBLE02-S back on the chassis + a fan, and run Thunderpower 21.5.
Thinking about yanking the GTB3 and Vulcan off the V2 and get a TC, put the TBLE02-S back on the chassis + a fan, and run Thunderpower 21.5.
09-16-2015 | 05:20 AM
Tech Regular
Joined: Jun 2014
Posts: 290
From: Australia
This is a question for those of you who have used the 3Racing oil gear diff.
I have used one for a while now with good results, but the outdrives were way too soft and chewed up the plastic drive shaft caps.
I was advised to replace them with the hardened version. These look like much better quality but the slot is too narrow for the plastic drive shaft cap. Without the cap there is a small amount play.
Is it ok to run these outdrives without the plastic caps or will the driveshaft chew up the outdrives because of the metal on metal contact?
I have used one for a while now with good results, but the outdrives were way too soft and chewed up the plastic drive shaft caps.
I was advised to replace them with the hardened version. These look like much better quality but the slot is too narrow for the plastic drive shaft cap. Without the cap there is a small amount play.
Is it ok to run these outdrives without the plastic caps or will the driveshaft chew up the outdrives because of the metal on metal contact?
09-16-2015 | 05:29 AM
This is a question for those of you who have used the 3Racing oil gear diff.
I have used one for a while now with good results, but the outdrives were way too soft and chewed up the plastic drive shaft caps.
I was advised to replace them with the hardened version. These look like much better quality but the slot is too narrow for the plastic drive shaft cap. Without the cap there is a small amount play.
Is it ok to run these outdrives without the plastic caps or will the driveshaft chew up the outdrives because of the metal on metal contact?
I have used one for a while now with good results, but the outdrives were way too soft and chewed up the plastic drive shaft caps.
I was advised to replace them with the hardened version. These look like much better quality but the slot is too narrow for the plastic drive shaft cap. Without the cap there is a small amount play.
Is it ok to run these outdrives without the plastic caps or will the driveshaft chew up the outdrives because of the metal on metal contact?
09-16-2015 | 05:54 AM
I did set up the GTB3 per my other ESC's that I run on m-chassis. As for rotors, I've not changed it. The RPM at its factory 30 degrees is a tad slower than the Thunderpower's 20degrees, but it's not so much the speed that bothers me. It's the sudden kick in torque around 25-35% throttle coming out of corners. It was horrible on the Sonic, the Vulcan is better. I think on a 4WD car it would work just fine.
09-16-2015 | 09:02 AM
Tamiya diffs. I'm not being a smartass.