Tamiya mini cooper
Eric, if you have plenty of grip on the track surface or with your tyres, try using the stock plastic 0 degree rear hubs.
They will make the rear rotate quicker when you come into a corner/give you more steering, should give you a bit more top end, the trade off is a lack of straight line stability.
You can adjust the front to have a bit more toe out to gain some stability back.
I have used 0 toe on a grippy track in hot weather and it worked well, but most of the time I just use 2 degree plastic toe in, or 2 degree alloy toe in.
As you mentioned in your post, there is definitely a sweet spot in regards to camber. Some tyres it's 1 degree negative, others it's 2 degree negative, or anywhere in between, it's something you'll have to play with to get right for your tyre and track conditions. If you're using the adjustable upper links on the rear, even a 0.1 or 0.2 shim can make all the difference in finding that sweet spot.
They will make the rear rotate quicker when you come into a corner/give you more steering, should give you a bit more top end, the trade off is a lack of straight line stability.
You can adjust the front to have a bit more toe out to gain some stability back.
I have used 0 toe on a grippy track in hot weather and it worked well, but most of the time I just use 2 degree plastic toe in, or 2 degree alloy toe in.
As you mentioned in your post, there is definitely a sweet spot in regards to camber. Some tyres it's 1 degree negative, others it's 2 degree negative, or anywhere in between, it's something you'll have to play with to get right for your tyre and track conditions. If you're using the adjustable upper links on the rear, even a 0.1 or 0.2 shim can make all the difference in finding that sweet spot.
Hi Toon
Apologies if already dealt with - I have been running the Tamiya Flouride coated (F201) Pinion in my first Mini since 2005, with zero wear issues. Fitted that same part on my next two Mini's as well and see no reason to change, despite the excellent Robinson and Carlson pinions:
53509 Hardened Pinion
https://www.tamiyausa.com/product/it...oduct-id=53509
Cheers
Dave
Apologies if already dealt with - I have been running the Tamiya Flouride coated (F201) Pinion in my first Mini since 2005, with zero wear issues. Fitted that same part on my next two Mini's as well and see no reason to change, despite the excellent Robinson and Carlson pinions:
53509 Hardened Pinion
https://www.tamiyausa.com/product/it...oduct-id=53509
Cheers
Dave
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 4,857
Just got back from the 2015 Tamiya Asia Cup held in Singapore. Sadly finished only 4th overall.
Here is A3, my car is the pacman, 3rd on the grid.
Time to retire
Here is A3, my car is the pacman, 3rd on the grid.
| + YouTube Video | |
Time to retire
Are you asking how to install the sway bar? or setup advice, on how the car reacts?
Ill take a guess and presume you mean setup advice. Ill only speak on Carpet surface, so if your on asphalt, listen to one of the other asphalt gurus. Carpet is easy, put on a hard rear sway bar, and nothing on the front. We do this to get as much steering as possible, with the least amount of body roll on the rear. The rear sway bar really makes the front end do its job. I have not found a single instance that the front sway bar made a positive change. I prefer the front to roll, to work both front tires.
Ill take a guess and presume you mean setup advice. Ill only speak on Carpet surface, so if your on asphalt, listen to one of the other asphalt gurus. Carpet is easy, put on a hard rear sway bar, and nothing on the front. We do this to get as much steering as possible, with the least amount of body roll on the rear. The rear sway bar really makes the front end do its job. I have not found a single instance that the front sway bar made a positive change. I prefer the front to roll, to work both front tires.
Just got back from the 2015 Tamiya Asia Cup held in Singapore. Sadly finished only 4th overall.
Here is A3, my car is the pacman, 3rd on the grid.
Time to retire
Here is A3, my car is the pacman, 3rd on the grid.
| + YouTube Video | |
Time to retire

Thanks to all who helped me with this,.
Bert, those are aluminum gears, not steel. They're made of the same cheesy alloy as the kit stuff. Also, again, the gear pitch is 0.6 mod, not "metric 48p" as Robinson calls it. Just trying to avoid confusion, so we can all buy the good stuff.
Tamiya does offer a fluorine coated, hardened pinion that's quite good. Part number 53509.
Tamiya does offer a fluorine coated, hardened pinion that's quite good. Part number 53509.
Are you asking how to install the sway bar? or setup advice, on how the car reacts?
Ill take a guess and presume you mean setup advice. Ill only speak on Carpet surface, so if your on asphalt, listen to one of the other asphalt gurus. Carpet is easy, put on a hard rear sway bar, and nothing on the front. We do this to get as much steering as possible, with the least amount of body roll on the rear. The rear sway bar really makes the front end do its job. I have not found a single instance that the front sway bar made a positive change. I prefer the front to roll, to work both front tires.
Ill take a guess and presume you mean setup advice. Ill only speak on Carpet surface, so if your on asphalt, listen to one of the other asphalt gurus. Carpet is easy, put on a hard rear sway bar, and nothing on the front. We do this to get as much steering as possible, with the least amount of body roll on the rear. The rear sway bar really makes the front end do its job. I have not found a single instance that the front sway bar made a positive change. I prefer the front to roll, to work both front tires.
Chassis Length - M
Body - Civic
FRONT
Spring - Red
Oil and Piston - 40wt Zero Rebound 3 hole
Ride Height - 5mm
Diff style and setup - 3 racing 500,000wt
Toe - 2 deg out
Top Arm hole - Top
Tire - S grip, Hard insert, Ca on the last 1mm on outside of tread.
Sauce - Full
Sway Bar - None
REAR
Spring - Blue
Oil and Piston - 40wt Zero Rebound 3 hole
Ride Height - 5mm
Camber - 1.5 deg
Toe - 2 deg
Top Arm hole - Low
Tire - S grip, Hard insert
Sauce - Full
Sway Bar - Hard
We run good grip carpet with tire sauce. If you are not allowed to run tire sauce your results could vary. Id suggest going to a softer spring front and back in that case. Let us know how it goes!
Ive posted this a few times, here is my setup.
Chassis Length - M
Body - Civic
FRONT
Spring - Red
Oil and Piston - 40wt Zero Rebound 3 hole
Ride Height - 5mm
Diff style and setup - 3 racing 500,000wt
Toe - 2 deg out
Top Arm hole - Top
Tire - S grip, Hard insert, Ca on the last 1mm on outside of tread.
Sauce - Full
Sway Bar - None
REAR
Spring - Blue
Oil and Piston - 40wt Zero Rebound 3 hole
Ride Height - 5mm
Camber - 1.5 deg
Toe - 2 deg
Top Arm hole - Low
Tire - S grip, Hard insert
Sauce - Full
Sway Bar - Hard
We run good grip carpet with tire sauce. If you are not allowed to run tire sauce your results could vary. Id suggest going to a softer spring front and back in that case. Let us know how it goes!
Chassis Length - M
Body - Civic
FRONT
Spring - Red
Oil and Piston - 40wt Zero Rebound 3 hole
Ride Height - 5mm
Diff style and setup - 3 racing 500,000wt
Toe - 2 deg out
Top Arm hole - Top
Tire - S grip, Hard insert, Ca on the last 1mm on outside of tread.
Sauce - Full
Sway Bar - None
REAR
Spring - Blue
Oil and Piston - 40wt Zero Rebound 3 hole
Ride Height - 5mm
Camber - 1.5 deg
Toe - 2 deg
Top Arm hole - Low
Tire - S grip, Hard insert
Sauce - Full
Sway Bar - Hard
We run good grip carpet with tire sauce. If you are not allowed to run tire sauce your results could vary. Id suggest going to a softer spring front and back in that case. Let us know how it goes!



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That is one funny looking body, nice job.