Are you using the hing pin ball for the rear shocks?

Yes.. Fr and Rr

Awesome, congratulations on your win and thanks for posting the pics.

Ain't that the truth! I learned that lesson a few weeks ago. Broke cars, destroyed tires. Important note: 2-3mm ride height doesn't cut it on a tennis court circuit!

Anyway, there was an explosion on my workbench, and once the smoke had cleared, there was an M03. Question again for thr 55D guys - Are you running any o-rings on the shock shaft, below the shock body, to prevent bottoming out?

After watching Golddust go from 4th to 1st because of an accident with 2nd and 3rd place, putting him into 2nd and then having the first place car blow a motor and then to take B main win in one race
and seeing the shock in his face that he won.
One of the drivers walked up to him to congratulate him on his victory and told him (and I'll never forget this)
To Finish First, you First have to Finish!

Words to live by if you think you're not running well!!!

Okay what'd you blow up???
Inquiring Minds want to know!!!

When I run outdoors, yes. My 60D also runs spacers below the shock housing on the shaft to prevent bottom outs (2mm clearance at full bump). Ride height typically anywhere 6-10mm F/R outdoors, lower indoors. Parking lots are bumpy. Even so, I still get rocks scraping the bottom at times.

EDIT: BTW, I use the plastic spacers below the housing as bump stops, not o-rings as it compresses. Unless you want to stack up a few o-rings, but then you could restrict overall free travel. This is why I need to raise it considerably for outdoors not to ride the bumpstops...and another reason why I've been too lazy to swap back and forth for indoor/outdoor.
I should make that nearly-bonestock M05 strictly for outdoor use..

I know what you and your friend meant about the legal ride heights and having to extend the shaft length, etc between 55 and 60. Just too lazy to explain that I dont do that (no spacers inside the shock housing) and just use height adjustment as I don't mess with droop unless the L/R tires dont lift off the ground evenly.

All this involves remembering how I set my car up 6 years ago, before my illness, when I ran teensy tires. So many brain cells lost! Makes me wish I was a drinker. Might've be worth it then.

In all honestly, it is a royal PITA setting up one chassis for indoor and outdoor. This is why I haven't taken my cars out since I got the grippy flooring for my basement track. Not worth the trouble!

I have a dedicated set of dampers and springs for outdoors, but changing the heights screws up my toe and damper tilt setting, etc. at the end, it's a mess re-setting it back to indoor after a day of driving outside.

Hi Jim,
I build my shocks to 56.5mm length on my mini, using the 54000. I fit the internal 'o' ring and nothing external. I use these shocks on my car even when running Ride Inch ups, (60D), or any of the 55D mini tyres. I only adjust ride height using the collars. I do change the shock springs and occassionally stand the front shocks up, depending on the amount of front grip.

OSherman,
Congratulations on your great result. I tried the shocks on the hinge pin mounts, but found the car to roll to much when using Ride Inch ups. Perhaps I should persist more on getting it to work, however I did not like how the car responded. What wheelbase did you run? Mwb and Swift body?

Granpa,
I hope you are responding to treatment and I will drop you a message soon. Take care.

Regards,

Calvin

A few shots of my ABC Grid/Gambado, TOP Racing Sabre FD car and my MO5 V2. All are run on asphelt tracks. My MO5 V2 is normally shod with Ride Inch up Mc38 front qnd Sc32 rear, which is our control tyre.

Thanks, Cal. I just rebuilt the 54000s and they came to about the same length, with no spacer. Must be different shafts or something.

As best I recall, I used to ru the shocks around 56-57, whether I was using 55 or 60 tires. I think I ran an o-ring under the shock to stop it compressing too far, allowing the car to bottom out.

But you don't want the chassis to bottom out, you want the damper to hit the bumpstop before your chassis hits anything.

Indoors is usually fine, but concrete/asphalt, you dont want to scrape the chassis if you can. I've not cracked my chassis yet although I don't run 13.5t brushless, I run 27turn stock motors when outside.

Hey Guys, I have been watching this thread for a while now and wanted to get one of these M05s. The first night I looked on ebay i saw the one I bought. I have been in and out of RC a few times over the last few years with off/on road and crawlers, but this is my first Tamiya. Hopefully I didnt snag this from any of you guys! ;-) I plan on doing some racing, but the closest track racing the M05 near me is 2 hours away. I wanted something "cheap" to run. I do have a couple of questions. The car comes with a lot of 3Racing parts (dampers, steering parts, rear hubs). Would you swap it out with Tamiya or is 3Racing decent? I am not familiar with thier products.

That's exactly what I said. "I ran an o-ring under the shock to stop it compressing too far, allowing the car to bottom out." Different words, same thing.