fishnfst

iTrader: (1)

Hello sidecarphil I'm not sure what an xb built car is? Mine is an Early Model mo3 swift.. The kingpins are silver and much larger than the ta04 kingpins.. I'm using them with the aluminum uprights so hopefully the threads haven't loosened up on those yet. I'm gonna use some higher strength loctite.. Previously when I was running it with Nimh's it would never rattle completelyi loose. Since changing to lipo/brushless setups the runtimes are like 30 minutes plus and things that never came loose before are now rattling loose

cannon

iTrader: (35)

Strange as we have not had that experience here whatsoever. Melted the blue diff gear? Sounds like you did not do it back up properly.

I agree that the diff needs to be greased before use. They simply slap the parts together but I never use anything hat is prebuilt with first checking it completely

RossoTorro

iTrader: (1)

I took it apart also and re-greased everything.

After the thrustbearing went i put in a TA05 one as it was a straight fit, then refitted the diff into my M05 and went racing. The diff was not overtight, just tighted 'right'. I race with M03, M04, M05, FF01, TA04-R, TA05-R, TA05 IFS-R, TA05MS, F103's and CRC Gen X10. So i know how to set up a balldiff, this is the 2nd time a 3racing balldiff has done the same thing. We have tested them in M03's before, same material used and same results.

Just my .02, don't buy. Rather use TA03 or wait for Tamiya's release of new diff.

Timbulb

iTrader: (2)

I'm quickly learning that 3Racing stuff is garbage. Their stuff either bends or breaks in short time. I wish some other company made as much stuff for the minis as they do.

racerb

iTrader: (2)

hey I new to tamiya stuff so just wondering if i wanted to switch the pinnion on my M03 if I have to use a tamiya one??? I heard they could be different (metric or something) I thought they were all just 48 pitch

Rozzt_iwa

mini run 0.6 pitch (known as tamiya pitch) and only run 16 18 and 20 tooth pinion altho i have hered that 21 tooth pinion can be used but never tryed it

racerb

iTrader: (2)

k perfect thanks for the response... so basically tamiya parts only for pinions that would be why the used mo3 I bought has went through 2 gear sets, and the motor runs kinda louder than most

mild seven

iTrader: (63)

yeah u get what u pay for, it is cheap and looks good but unfortunatly quality is poor. for bashing around it might be fine but as ppl have realised at my club they end up buying Tamiya hopups in the end anyway.

however i have used Yeah Racing products in my F1's and they the quality is much better than 3 racing i have found. there stuff is just as cheap as 3 racing. might be worthing giving a shot of some of there products on your mini.

cannon

iTrader: (35)

Tom,

actually the latest lot of 3 Racing gear has changed a lot. The quality on the new knuckles etc have vastly improved over previous stuff. The new M05 spool is very impressive.

mild seven

iTrader: (63)

ah ok, I only know of guys running the older stuff on there m03's etc. Good to hear that they have improved tho

monkeyracing

iTrader: (10)

Robinson Racing Products makes a very good line of hard steel alloy pinions in 48p metric (0.6 mod) They're cheap and last a lot longer then the Tamiya ones. If your local hobby shop doesn't have them, they can order them very quickly. The appropriate part numbers would be 1116, 1118 and 1120.

Your mini will start chewing through gears when the stock pinion has worn and gotten some sharp edges. It will also make a lot of noise.

sidecarphil1

iTrader: (1)

well i am not impressed with the M05 !!!!!

i have built it as per the instructions and i added the Adustable upper arms that wont adjust at the front because it is tight up against the ball joint's with no spacers in , and there must be 3 degees of camber wheel out at the top !!!

and the steering linkages as per kit give me a rediculous amount of toe out !! i now have 4mm gap between the 2 ball joint adjusters and now it is better

i have set it up as per my old M03 and it drives POOOOOOOOO

HELP ME PLEASE !!!!!!

i have removed the ball diff and am going back to standard and i have the TRF dampers

some one give me a set up that works PLEASE

Mini35

I'm fairly new to this forum but I reckon Caltek will be along shortly with some helpful info. I'm afraid all I can say is I feel for you fella, I was in exactly the same boat with my M05 which was the same as yours - ball diff and TRF M-Chassis dampers. It was a total bitch. In the end I did manage to get a nice handling car though. How? I sold the M05 and built up a new M03R! They can be found at obscenely cheap prices now from Asia.

My own personal opinion is that Mini's are meant to be a "throw it down on the carpet and race" fun formula. Constantly chasing a setup for the M05 that made it consistent (never mind competitive, I just wanted it to go round each lap the same as the last rather than understeering one minute and oversteering the next) was too much like hard work and I was NOT having fun anymore. It was all I could do to avoid throwing the car across the hall in frustration, instead I sold it to a seasoned touring car racer who reckoned he could "sort" it. Last I heard, he had moved it on already as he couldn't stop it pulling to one side under accelaration even with a lot of counterweighting.

After spending my hard earned cash on this car I feel entitled to say it is one of Tamiya's biggest missed opportunities of recent times.

cannon

iTrader: (35)

I was under the impression that the adjustable link set was only designed for the rear of the car and wsa made available for the racers who bought the standard M05 kit.

sidecarphil1

iTrader: (1)

mine pulls SSSSOOOOOO badly to the left on throttle but when i cruse allong it goes loverly in a straight line

i was so tempted to throw it across the hall too , i think i will spray the body nice and leave it on the shelf and go back to me trusty old M03