subaru73

iTrader: (42)

hello here is my carpet set up
front:
45 wt oil 2 hole piston blue springs m grip tire with sweep mini aqua insert full sauce

rear:45 wt oil 2 hole piston yellow spring s grip tire hard tamiya strip insert full sauce.

gear diff and trf shocks very stable.hope this helps

J-milz

iTrader: (42)

Quick question: I'm thinking about running in a local spec mini class. A few guys run the stock mechanical esc, but I am looking for a cheap alternative. I stumbled upon Turnigy's inexpensive line of ESC and I like the THY-30A for $9 bucks! Is it a step up from the mechanical esc? Or should I just move on?
Ps I'm running 2s lipos and a handout stock motor.

hprt

iTrader: (9)

Stu - Here is what I have been running. It's got the laptime potential of Ivan's superfast MO3, but it requires more "attention" to drive it consistently:

1. S grips front and rear with tamiya hard inserts. Jack sauce; full rear, inside half front
2. TRF shocks, 40wt oil, TRF red short springs front and rear
3. 5mm ride height
4. added 50g of lead to the front of the car (bumper area) and lightened rear using lightweight electrics and removed extra plastic parts; weight distribution of 58% front, 42% rear (this gave the car much greater steering response) and 1250g race weight.
5. ball diff, extra tight...
6. CA bead on outer edge (radially) of tire sidewalls (not on tread surface) to break traction in hard corners and prevent traction rolls.

Very stable, can be driven very hard. I typically use 55D tires (RP 30's with RP inserts) which are good for about a lap (~10 seconds) advantage on a 5 min race. Tamiya tires need a significant break-in period (using lots of tire sauce) to reach the same grip level as the RP's. Also, I am favouring full steering on my controller, i.e. no negative exponential and no reduced dual rate. Requires a slight touch on the controller for straights and sweepers, but gives the car instant response in tight infield sections. The car has been finishing at the top of the A main consistently since I brought it out.

stulec52

iTrader: (26)

Thanks guys !

played around a lot tonight, had it much better with the old Super Slick tires on the back.
I am pretty sure I have some droop issues causing roll, so I'll experiment a bit more with that.

thanks for all the info, much appreciated !

Stu

hprt

iTrader: (9)

Forgot to mention that I am using 6mm spacers internally in the shocks (front and rear) to limit the droop.

hprt

iTrader: (9)

The stock tamiya esc (TEU-101BK) that comes with the majority of M chassis kits is more than adequate for silver can racing, and the new tamiya TEU-104BK even has a lipo cutoff...

monkeyracing

iTrader: (10)

Yup, I forgot to mention that as well. Droop is not your friend! (...however inevitable...)

Funny thing about this. I've always known that the stock speedy is good enough to win races, but I can't help but go for the pricey electronics. Anything to win, because I sure as heck don't want to learn to drive properly!

Jim

Shangrila

Curious why 53223 shaped inserts don't get much of a mention. Why are they less popular than the sponge 53255 inserts?


I have already ordered the 53255 hard inserts as recommended by Tony and am happy with them, just curious.


And what is the diff with the older UJs 53205 vs the newer assembly UJs 53597?


I can't wait for the next race - M01 to M05 move

hprt

iTrader: (9)

Probably due to availability and stocking issues with the local hobby stores...

I tend to not vary the inserts and tune the balance of the car with the suspension, as the inserts are not changeable once the tires are assembled...

monkeyracing

iTrader: (10)

53205 = Older style u-joint. A bit crude.
53597 = Newer design, less crude

They're both very good, though. No difference in performance.

Jim

Granpa

Usually agree with you, Jim, but the older 53205 has a small edge in performance over the newer CVDs. They are a bit smoother and don't seem to bind up on the tighter turns like the CVDs do. Will admit tho that the newer CVD is a bit more durable and can be rebuilt.

green mini

Default BRAND NEW TAMIYA M05 READY TO RACE WITH LOTS OF SPARES
hi

brand new tamiya m05 complete ready to race with spares

list

tamiya m05 fully ball raced brand new never used
tamiya body small chassis brand new
used tamiya mini body
tamiya trf m chassis oil dampers brand new
tamiya black can motor brand new
universal drive shafts brand new
brand new rims with much more 32 with spice 5.5 inserts
airtronics mx3 synthasised 27mhz pistol radio gear and servo
brand new tamiya radial tyres
yeah racing 3200mah lipo
2 x 4600mah nimh battery pack
brand new silver can
spare set of used tyres spice
brand new spare diff
spare tamiya front knuckles

the car is new

the lot $510 plus postage car located in adelaide

RossoTorro

iTrader: (1)

I tried the new 3racing balldiff for M05, and as i suspected it was bad.
Tried writing review 2 times on RCMart and both times they have deleted the review. My advice is to NOT buy them, rather use TA03 balldiff or wait for new M05 Tamiya diff. The problem is thrustbearing that is way too weak and gets eaten up in less than a battery. I tried changing it to Tamiya thrustbearing but then the diffballs melted the whole blue wheel. It's badly designed and even worse built. Avoid by all things sacred!

http://www.rcmart.com/catalog/rc-3ra...h=595_744_1389
http://www.rcmart.com/catalog/rc-3ra...h=595_744_1389

It looks good, but it's utter crap! And since RCMart won't allow fair reviews on their site this is the only place i can think of where people can understand how bad this is!

I run my M05 with EzRun 13T and not some mega bucks brushless system.

fishnfst

iTrader: (1)

quick question about the kingpins that go into the front uprights.. My older swift uses the ma18 part. IT's the larger panhead philips kingpin.. I believe it comes in the parts a bag. Is there a replacement for it? Maybe a flanged tube setup like in a touring car. I've been running mine with just a tiny bit of blue loctite but they inevitably come loose and I lose them. Then I'm stuck buying the whole parts bag again.. I've noticed on some mo3r's they use a different front suspension setup.. I haven't been able to handle one extensively enough yet to check it out. It looks like a much smaller diameter kingpin or screw going through the c-hub into the upright.. Would a setup like that work on my mo3m swift?

sidecarphil1

iTrader: (1)

the kingpins are the same Diameter , i am guessing your car was a XB built car ?this has the larger screw

mine is a kit one and comes with the smaller cross headed screw , there is some 3Racing titanium screws available for it but i hate 3Racing poop and would rather buy the parts bag than that crap

try renewing your uprights , i had to after loosing 3 screws in one day