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Tamiya mini cooper

Old 10-01-2015, 09:05 PM
  #25801  
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The bigger the tire the better, until your mini starts rolling too much... As far as setup, I recommend re-measuring the four corners of the car for symmetry, and shim as needed... I had to redo my m03's whole suspension with calipers, hudy station, etc....
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Old 10-01-2015, 09:05 PM
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Like Jim said, we race our mini's with plenty of traction on the front (S-grips all around, softer springs in the front). Once you have "too much" traction, CA glue becomes your friend. Personally, i put CA on the outer edge of the outside tread and then proceed to put CA on the top of the outside tread blocks.

If you are going to use the original planetary diff and stiffen it up (shims, shewing gum, etc etc), it is reccomended to switch to hard metal outdrives.
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Old 10-01-2015, 09:37 PM
  #25803  
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Are you guys saucing your s-grips on front because my m grips appeared to have great traction? Excited to try some changes as the car felt good even got tq it was just the main that killed me with the traction rolls.
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Old 10-02-2015, 12:07 AM
  #25804  
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Forgot to mention, rear tires will last you all season, practicing/racing every week for at least 6 months!
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Old 10-02-2015, 02:13 AM
  #25805  
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Originally Posted by Gravity Dodger
Are you guys saucing your s-grips on front because my m grips appeared to have great traction? Excited to try some changes as the car felt good even got tq it was just the main that killed me with the traction rolls.
If you are just traction rolling, do the ca trick first and see what that gives you.
Put ca on the bottom of the front tires maybe 1 radial in.(tread)
Let it dry and run that. That should clear the t/r troubles tremendously!

As for saucing the tires, for us, it depends on what track we're running on and how
The surface is, whether its prepped, hot, carpet etc... that varies.
Before you go investing in any companies hop ups, check with you race director
They may limit you to TCS rules, just so you don't waste your money and get dq'ed
Before your first lap!

Last edited by KA2AEV; 10-02-2015 at 07:29 AM.
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Old 10-02-2015, 04:41 AM
  #25806  
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Originally Posted by Gravity Dodger
Thanks guys I appreciate the responses! The car has the stock diff and is quite loose so I will need to change that but I think I will start with the ca on the front tires for the first qual and try the springs for the second qual. Are there any must have upgrades to the pro version besides fixing the differential? From what I read the 3racing steering rack and another racer suggested adjustable links.
The steering linkage is fine until it cracks and breaks at the bell crank.
The diff, imho, is your first step. You need to stiffen it considerably, otherwise you won't be able to unleash the M05's (or any fwd for that matter) true potential.
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Old 10-02-2015, 07:26 AM
  #25807  
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Originally Posted by sakadachi
The steering linkage is fine until it cracks and breaks at the bell crank.
The diff, imho, is your first step. You need to stiffen it considerably, otherwise you won't be able to unleash the M05's (or any fwd for that matter) true potential.
But what's the use in speeding up a car if you cannot handle it?
Especially in traffic???
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Old 10-02-2015, 08:50 AM
  #25808  
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Originally Posted by KA2AEV
But what's the use in speeding up a car if you cannot handle it?
Especially in traffic???
Actually I'm not talking about speeding up the car, I'm talking about minimizing wasted energy that could be used to propel the car forward instead of under steering. It's up to the driver whether he wants to go faster or not through traffic, but at least if you have the option to go faster if he decides.

A few months ago I made an experimental bonestock M05 with plastic bushings and all. The car bounced around and understeered like a crappy bonestock car which is fine for someone that's just starting out.

The 2 things I had to change to get it to run properly were:
1) Diff (monkey racing diff inside)
2) Oil dampers (I just took the clear housing ones off the V2)


Gravity already has the oil dampers but not the diffs. After diffs, I suggest trying tires to match his surface and play with springs as necessary. I only have limited experience on Ozite back in the day (mostly ran foam for pancar), so you guys can offer better solutions for tires.
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Old 10-02-2015, 09:49 AM
  #25809  
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But traction rolling doesn't occur while the vehile is accelerating on a straight, it occurs while the vehicle
Is turning. And if the said vehicle is unstable in the turns, what good does the extra speed do?
Slower is faster!
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Old 10-02-2015, 09:58 AM
  #25810  
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Got it, I will stiffen the diff on my car before next Wednesday s race. I'll also check the track rules on aftermarket parts but considering a couple guys cars were pretty blinged out in blue anodized parts I'm guessing the track is prety loose on chassis hop ups as long as your using the Johnson motor and no speed gears. Last question before I start applying these great tips, shorty or full size lipo? I figured for weight purposes the shorty would be best so that's what I used for my first two races but I've heard some like the car better with a full size lipo just curious the benefit? Thanks again for the help.
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Old 10-02-2015, 10:12 AM
  #25811  
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Originally Posted by KA2AEV
But traction rolling doesn't occur while the vehile is accelerating on a straight, it occurs while the vehicle
Is turning. And if the said vehicle is unstable in the turns, what good does the extra speed do?
Slower is faster!
Sorry, I'm posting between meetings. But you are right, if he is traction rolling you'll want to slow down before corner entry and try different tires that are less sticky (or your ca trick), and also allow more sway for chassis to contain that horizontal energy.

I'd try lowering the center of gravity first, but worst case, I've found raising the car slightly and allowing more sway prevented traction rolling and hop.

I've made pancars traction roll on carpet so I know from experience just stiffening up the suspension may not simply be the solution.

By allowing more sway, you will definitely want the diff stiffer exiting the turn cause the inner wheel will try to start lifting off the ground.

Originally Posted by Gravity Dodger
Got it, I will stiffen the diff on my car before next Wednesday s race. I'll also check the track rules on aftermarket parts but considering a couple guys cars were pretty blinged out in blue anodized parts I'm guessing the track is prety loose on chassis hop ups as long as your using the Johnson motor and no speed gears. Last question before I start applying these great tips, shorty or full size lipo? I figured for weight purposes the shorty would be best so that's what I used for my first two races but I've heard some like the car better with a full size lipo just curious the benefit? Thanks again for the help.
Sounds good. For me, I'm going to say full sized Lipo's, but make sure the battery can clear the rectangular cut-out of the V2. My 5200 would not fit through the opening so I use the rounded housing Peak Lipo's on my V2. I have a 4200 Shorty too, but at least on my car, the car runs better with the extra weight of the full sized lipo's.

Hope some of my info helps..
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Old 10-02-2015, 10:29 AM
  #25812  
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Originally Posted by Gravity Dodger
Last question before I start applying these great tips, shorty or full size lipo? I figured for weight purposes the shorty would be best so that's what I used for my first two races but I've heard some like the car better with a full size lipo just curious the benefit? Thanks again for the help.
A typical weight for a shorty pack is maybe 130 grams give or take.
A Peak Power Round pack, 4200mAH, comes in just over 220 grams.
A square pack 6000 mAH is pretty darn close to 290-300 grams.
Now think about this:
The heavier your battery, the lower your center of gravity, at least in a Mini. So by using your shorty pack, your COG is not as low as if you are using a heavier battery and you are probably making the car more susceptible to traction roll.

A lighter car will accelerate faster, that's true, but the gain due to acceleration s nothing compared to the time you'll lose by having to slow down through the corners to avoid traction roll. Minis are top-heavy by their nature, so anything you can do to get the COG lower will benefit. Ditch the shorty.
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Old 10-02-2015, 10:57 AM
  #25813  
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Excellent point, V-point! lighter is not always better.
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Old 10-02-2015, 10:59 AM
  #25814  
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The big bore shocks use the same springs as the regular 54000 series dampers. They are only 0.5mm larger in diameter.

As for the battery discussion - I use a shorty pack, simply to make min weight. Monkey and 0000000 will attest that my car works.
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Old 10-02-2015, 11:03 AM
  #25815  
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Originally Posted by hprt
The big bore shocks use the same springs as the regular 54000 series dampers. They are only 0.5mm larger in diameter.

As for the battery discussion - I use a shorty pack, simply to make min weight. Monkey and 0000000 will attest that my car works.
I'm not very familiar with these new 'big bore' shocks. Do the pistons just have bigger bores (holes) or are they referring to the housing themselves and come with a larger diameter piston with those tiny holes?

I ask because I found that the cheap plastic pistons work so much better (with an exclamation point) than the white ones the 54000's come with.

As for shorty, I agree that with my loaded V2 I was EXACTLY at 1300.00g when I weighed it running my usual Rover Mini body.
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