I just wanted to put a FYI out there.

The belt pulley tension screw that goes through the back, it would be wise to install two washer on that screw. it is very easy to over tighten that screw when doing so it pushes against the front tension pulley screw and they separate the aluminum pulley holder. By adding an extra washer you can confidently tighten the screw down without worry of breaking the aluminum.

This is just a Tip to help keep your pockets fat and your tires rolling

Thank you for the reply! I will definitely try the things you suggeste. I already have yellow in the front with I believe 32.5, so I just have to work on the rear end. I totally forgot about moving the camber links to adjust the roll center. Thanks again!

Are you running the stock A-arms? If you are, see if they're warped.

Where are people getting the 1.8mm rear swaybar? I don't see a part number for it.

in the sway bar kit ther is 3 different onec i think one off them is the 1,8mm.

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...ar-Swaybar-Set

but im not 100% sure but pretty sure its 1,8 2,0 2,2 mm. ther is in the kit but its just a ques i get the kit in 2 days then i can tjek for ure if u need me to

what is the pro and cons whit blader shocks compairt to emulsion shocks??

The a-arms are pretty new. they are starting to bend again though. My old ones were jacked up pretty bad.

I'm hoping this all comes down to tires. I've been racing on a set of barcodes since the truck came out. I've got some SS rebars for this wed. Hopefully that will straighten some of this out.

Unrelated to the current discussion, but every day I love the truck more and more.

Today I ran 35 minutes completely smooth, only a couple of flipovers because I hit the edges of a very fast turn, the truck was totally responsive, super smooth... Since I moved the front shocks to the outer A-arm hole and did the saddlepack mod... every second I drive this car is like being in heaven.


Closest thing to perfection I've ever driven. In terms of enjoyment.

Question.
Are any of you running a Sidewinder in there 4x4 and not having heat issues?
I am thinking of taking the MMP out of it and putting in my SW so I can run a smaller sensored motor in my 2wd of the MMP

Has anyone tried taking off the belt and running as a 2wd for the 2wd mod/open class? Do many tracks allow this?

I'm thinking of doing that this weekend just to get in more track time. I have no aspirations of victory with that setup and I would rather be a loser than spectator. However I don't want to cause any damage to my rig.

If you don't mind me asking, what type of saddlepak lipo are you running?

I started with the bladders but the stock AE ones are very stiff so I decided to go emulsion. I am so used to the emulsion style of shocks with my 2wd SC10 it was easy.

So the bladder shock is supposed to have rebound which changes the feeling of the shock at full travel. Emusion shocks by definition should not have any rebound. I added 7mm of fuel tubing to help limit travel and save my diffs from damage. I also extended the rod ends out 2.5 turns to increase the suspension drop. The truck was planted and with the addition of 2mm of ball stud washers under the rear camber link inner posts it was even better. I finished 5th in my first event with it with almost 20 entries. Not bad.

won't hurt the truck at all but it will be pretty heavy compared to the other sc 2wd's you will have to change the setup to be competitive thou

good luck let us know how it turns out for you .

ok thanks
now 1 ekstra question howe the hek do i make them then ???GGG
ive try the bladder style and are use to that but the emulsion i dont know howe to get right are ther any trick to it??

i say on the belt flipping issue.. as soon as it flipped the first time.. i woulda got a new belt.. when it flips.. it will kink the belt.. any flex in the belt.. that kink will come back.. and possibly flip.. also.. post a picture of the front and rear belt pulleys, see if they are assembled correctly..

Put another belt on..