Great info, thanks Krio

Awesome. Thanks...searched for ages for that.

Krio, do you think the loss of punch was directly from the diff or a combination of the extra weight? Something that can be fixed with gearing, or maybe by stepping up to the 4600 Pro4?

I've tried the center diff on carpet, noticed it had less punch too. Motor temps ran hotter. I'd guess it was because I didn't need any throttle control. Ill run the garo's till I can get back on dirt.

Definitely just the diff, but it's not like it lost a ton. It feels like an 8th scale buggy has 5k center diff oil, so just a touch on the low side as I run 7 or 10k in my e-buggy.

Geared at 15/60 or 16/60 I know the raw power is there as hitting the face of a jump I can spike the throttle and launch as far as I want. I keep perfect pace with the Losi's going down the straight with the center diff, but I used to pull away a couple feet before. However, the car is so much more planted (again not necessarily just from the center diff) on the infield I have more "racing lines" to pick from and I gained ~5 seconds over a 5 minute qualifier.

I've only actually raced a half dozen times total. With the center diff this last weekend I was running against 3 guys who were running 17s flat times compared to my best lap of 19s due to their higher skill level, but I was able to chase them down in the big uphill sweeper coming off the straight away since with the center diff I was able to hold full throttle up until the sweeper finished in a near 180deg turn where I could then slam the breaks and stick the inside of the turn.

I would then have to let them pass again as we got to the more technical sections they were kicking my ass in due to, again much better skill and that they were doing much better tire prep and getting more grip.

Only down side that I've see is that it's expensive to start with, but afterwards I think you can buy the parts separate or potentially find your one replacement parts (balls can be found anywhere, if you have a good drill press you could drill your own spur, order or own washers for the rings, etc.)

Also, at lest with the current version, you can't "Lock down" the front and rear like you can with the pin mod if that is something you require. I prefer to have them decoupled and like the center diff approach better than the slipper since slipper just wastes energy as heat.

P.S. on the price, it seems high compared to the zero you should have to spend on using the stock slipper, but consider a basket + HD pads are going to cost $20 at least, and when compared to a SC10 2wd diff at $35 it's not too far off considering it's a hand-build product.

Not to beat a dead horse but for those that have a terrible time with getting their truck to nose down in the air, are you running MMP speedo's?

I have the MMP & Pro4 and I actually had the opposite problem this weekend, I was nose diving like crazy. I have zero drag break set.

I was having to slow down before the ramp and gas it at the lip to stay level.

I'm running the exotech with inline saddles and a flotek body. No extra weight added.

what's your spring setup?

....Yes, Why.

(Smart Sensored, brake set at 100%, Reverse set at 100%)

I don't have problems getting the truck to nose down, quite the opposite.

I'm running an RX8/SC4X combo.

Yellow front blue rear ride height at bones level front and back.

I also run my belt a little tight, could be adding some drag.

I run the 4.0 sonic 550 with the LRP TCspec v2 . depending on how big the track is you r running at will determine the size of the motor. I would recommend the 4.5 and gearing 62/14 is a good starting place.

Just curious because I run the Tekin speedo and software 222 has mad crazy brakes. Just was thinking that maybe the MMP speedo's don't have that hard brake hit that the Tekin's do. A soft brake engagement would not give the rotation as a hard stop would.

I run a tekin setup as well (rx8/pro4) and I've had to turn down my brakes because I would nose dive on jumps alot. (when tapping the brakes to control it)

I also have a question, wouldn't you get more air control running the sc10 4x4 with the clicker on?