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Old 05-28-2011 | 09:54 AM
  #2416  
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Originally Posted by turbowop
For those wanting to use the 8ight shocks, it's simple. They bolt right up. The top requires the use of the Losi upper bushings, which are narrower, so you just have to install a 5mm spacer behind them. I used a small bearing for now. If you use the stock upper bushing, the Losi shocks will flop back and forth on the longer bushing too much. Using red springs with adjusters backed all the way out, the ride height is damn near the same as with the stock shocks/springs with the adjusters backed all the way out.


Can the losi shock stand off's not be used? If not why?
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Old 05-28-2011 | 10:28 AM
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Originally Posted by jasons36
I run at hot rod too and initially ran with 5k up front and 30 wt in front shocks. Truck was nice but wanted to spin the ass end around in the sweeper off the straight. Came back next week with 50k diff/35 wt front shocks and truck was way easier to drive harder. Make no mistake though, it had a lot to do with driving adjustments as well. You don't need to brake at the end of the straight, in fact you can't without spinning out. Just let off the throttle, the truck can carry quite a bit of speed into the sweeper. Good luck!
Thanks for the feedback Jason. Sounds like thicker front diff oil is the way to go for Jimmy's track. I did put in th 60k diff oil last night. Will try it out as soon as the ESC and motor arrives.
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Old 05-28-2011 | 10:32 AM
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Originally Posted by Dragrcr
Just FYI, I was able to successfully replace the horn without taking much apart at all, took less than 5 min total. I marked where the holders were bolted, and pulled them both, had to pull the clicker cover to get to one, than I pulled the front right camber link ball stud, As well as the upper shock nut to swing the shock out if the way, and was able to swing the servo sideways and replace the horn.
Thank you i'm trying that but still having problems getting to it. I dont wanna take it all apart again like I did before.
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Old 05-28-2011 | 10:59 AM
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Originally Posted by racer1812
What is DE doing different on the AE 4x4 wheel than on the Losi wheel which is said to fit??
The AE truck does not have the clearance issues of the Losi. So DE Racing was able to add more ribbing to the inner part of the wheel making a stiffer wheel with less flex than the Losi wheel. Dave also says the wheel is the exact off-set of the AE wheel where the Losi wheel makes the truck a little bit narrower than the stock wheel. They will have them in Black, Silver, White, and Yellow.
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Old 05-28-2011 | 11:15 AM
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I figured out what my problem is, the threads inside the servo are stripped/cross threaded so the bolt that connects the horn to the servo falls off cause the bolt has nothing to grip on to. Apparently must be really soft metal or something.

I tried to 'fix' it , don't know if it will last but I wonder if that part can be replaced on the servo. Otherwise gotta get a new servo.
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Old 05-28-2011 | 11:16 AM
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Old 05-28-2011 | 11:19 AM
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Originally Posted by Mike_Shepard
Can the losi shock stand off's not be used? If not why?
The Losi standoffs are too short where they go through the shock tower. The threads don't stick out the other side at all.
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Old 05-28-2011 | 11:31 AM
  #2423  
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Originally Posted by mrbirchum
Another 4x4 newb question, everywhere I search for belt settings just says follow the manual for tensioner placement, make sure it feels right, etc. I just wonder if there is some definitive measurement or guide to know if a belt is tight or loose?
I say run it as loose as you can without it skipping under hard braking.
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Old 05-28-2011 | 12:43 PM
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I am getting ready to purchase my AE SC4X4 and need some insight.

I would like to know who is running the Tekin RS speed control and how they feel about it. I Also want some input on the Novak Havok Pro SC as well. I am torn between these 2 and just want a little feed back. I know they are both really good systems. I will be running a 5.5 or 6.5 motor ( Tekin or Novak). Like I said, just need a little feed back. I have been out of the electric game for a long while. My last speed controll was a Novak Tempest 2 I bought in '97
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Old 05-28-2011 | 12:54 PM
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Jerm, when I had a sc10 I ran the novak havoc sc edition with a ballistic engine. Thing was butter smooth
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Old 05-28-2011 | 01:21 PM
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Originally Posted by Jerm13
I am getting ready to purchase my AE SC4X4 and need some insight.

I would like to know who is running the Tekin RS speed control and how they feel about it. I Also want some input on the Novak Havok Pro SC as well. I am torn between these 2 and just want a little feed back. I know they are both really good systems. I will be running a 5.5 or 6.5 motor ( Tekin or Novak). Like I said, just need a little feed back. I have been out of the electric game for a long while. My last speed controll was a Novak Tempest 2 I bought in '97
I don't think the RS (not the pro) would really be a good choice with the weight and drag of a 4x4 SCT, especially when you'll most likely be running a 5.5/6.5 540 motor or a 4.5/5.5 550 motor. Not sure if it would run better with a 550 motor but a 5.5/6.5 540 would be really pushing the RS in this truck..IMO
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Old 05-28-2011 | 01:22 PM
  #2427  
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Originally Posted by Jerm13
I am getting ready to purchase my AE SC4X4 and need some insight.

I would like to know who is running the Tekin RS speed control and how they feel about it. I Also want some input on the Novak Havok Pro SC as well. I am torn between these 2 and just want a little feed back. I know they are both really good systems. I will be running a 5.5 or 6.5 motor ( Tekin or Novak). Like I said, just need a little feed back. I have been out of the electric game for a long while. My last speed controll was a Novak Tempest 2 I bought in '97
If your running a 550 can I would go with the rx8
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Old 05-28-2011 | 01:31 PM
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.
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Old 05-28-2011 | 02:10 PM
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Originally Posted by turbowop
The Losi standoffs are too short where they go through the shock tower. The threads don't stick out the other side at all.
Gotcha thanks
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Old 05-28-2011 | 05:19 PM
  #2430  
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Finally got the body done, I've got as much time in the body as it took to build the kit.





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