I am using a brand new RRP 16t 32p pinion, and I mesh it with a thin piece of paper folded over. With all thing considered, it is very quiet, as quiet as my 2wd TQ buggy was. Ive had it at the 2 days, and everyone who sees it running thinks its a 2wd because it is so quiet.

I'm thinking of going with this combo for the SC10 4x4 - RX8 / 1410 3800kv.
Any feedback on this combo?
Would like to see ESC settings (Timing, etc) and gearing info from guys who have run the same setup
From what I gathered from the first page, I will try 13/62 for the gearing.

Also - Is it recommended to use 32P 1/8 pinions for the 1410 or can I use the 5mm to 1/8 reducer?
I wanted to get the 32p 5mm Pinions so that I can use it for 550 cans later.
Are there any reliability or perfomance issues when using the reducer?

thanks

Finishing building my 3rd SC10 4x4 now, I'm a pro at this by now, don't even think I used the manual. This one is for my buddy's 10 year old kid and we decided to drop a Novak Ballistic 8.5 540 in it until he's ready for the big block. Anyone running an 8.5 in it right now? Looking for gearing suggestions for FDR.

No one seems to notice this problem and talk about it much so don't expect
many answers. Yes I noticed this on mine, it does not jump near as good as
my Losi 4x4 SCTE so I'm going to try some weight on the left side toward
the front this weekend.

Enjoy"

According to AE team driver Chad Due ride height is measured at the edges of the CENTER chassis plate, not under the tranny.

hey guys, so im building my kit right now and up until i got to the shocks everything was going great. i took them apart to change the oil and grease up the seals and they have been fighting me non-stop to be consistent. i know everyone has their own way of building them but i gotta say my Kyosho and Losi shocks have Never fought me this hard. i build all my shocks with bladders and i was wondering if anyone has been having the same troubles when building with bladders.

To bad AE themselves won't come on here and answer
this question for all of us so we can quit guessing or going on hear say.

FRIDAY FRIDAY
ThunderbirdJunkie GETS HIS NEW TRUCK ON FRIDAY
GONNA BUILD ON FRIDAY
LOOKIN FORWARD TO THE RACIN'

I am using 48p with a brand new AE 17t pinion. I will try loosening up the mesh and see if that makes a difference.

Try building them without the bleeder screw. You can leave these out as long as you still use the boots.

That is correct.

step by step to remove/replace servo?

ive tried that but it seems like the area behind the bladder isnt large enough for when the shock shaft is fully in and starts to hydra-lock.

Does it really matter? Measure wherever you want on the truck. Then measure that same spot when changing it for your duration of ownership. Am I the only one here that can pick a decent ride height just by eyeballing it and from feel? I use a camber gauge to get wheel alignment all alike, but I can level out my truck and pick a good ride height just by looking at the thing.

can you make a video of your shock build? May be easier to diagnose the problem.


Rick Hohwart: what are your thoughts about the weight balance that people are talking about concerning the amount of added weight being reported? Is it related to battery pack weight? if so, what pack weight do you believe works best?

I had issues with the MMP and Novak B4.5t motor and it wasn't servo related. I had to use an external BEC for that and it still wasn't smooth at acceleration from a dead stop.

With that same MMP and a 1410 3800kv, it is nice and smooth without the external BEC. I'm also using an XP1015 servo.