SC10 4x4 Thread
#1516
you guys need to sptop posting so much here.
cause of the fact that when it is daytime at yours it is nighttime here where I live.
And every moring I have to read up 10 pages of info, that will take me 1 hour, now my boss wants to pay me 5 hours less a week
cause of the fact that when it is daytime at yours it is nighttime here where I live.
And every moring I have to read up 10 pages of info, that will take me 1 hour, now my boss wants to pay me 5 hours less a week
#1517
#1518
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 2,974
From: Norwood, OH...and CCRCR and The OhioRCFactory
Got a 15t and 16t 32p pinion for the Castle 3800...Sound reasonable? There's a guy running a Mamba Max (the GOOD one); that's what ThunderbirdJunkie is planning on running; How's the speedo run in this hoss with the 3800?
#1519
That's the best ESC Castle has ever made, bulletproof and will work fine. And 15-16T is going to be a screamer, temps will never be an issue with that motor.
#1521
Tech Rookie
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 7
From: Los Angeles
Again, you are wrong. The shaft displaces the oil, and the oil displaces the air bubble. It doesn't matter if the air bubble is behind the bladder or thousands of tiny little bubbles mixed up in the oil. The shaft volume is constant, the amount of air that needs to be compressed is constant, and the force of the air pushing the shaft back out of the shock body is constant. Air is compressible, fluids are not. The piston and the bladder do not interact in any way except as a barrier against mixing. This is all simple hydraulics 101.
It is also FACT that as the gas increases in an emulsion, that the viscosity decreases. Simple fluid dynamics.
I have yet to see an emulsion shock be built with significant rebound. In order to do so, there needs to be too much air emulsified into the oil for the shock to function correctly. What I do see is hydrolocking when trying to get decent amounts of rebound. Again, IMO, no reason to ever do an emulsion build when there's a choice...it's a step backwards in technology and tunability.
For someone with as many posts as yours, I'd have thought you would have learned a little more about how suspension works by now
It is also FACT that as the gas increases in an emulsion, that the viscosity decreases. Simple fluid dynamics.
I have yet to see an emulsion shock be built with significant rebound. In order to do so, there needs to be too much air emulsified into the oil for the shock to function correctly. What I do see is hydrolocking when trying to get decent amounts of rebound. Again, IMO, no reason to ever do an emulsion build when there's a choice...it's a step backwards in technology and tunability.
For someone with as many posts as yours, I'd have thought you would have learned a little more about how suspension works by now

#1522
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 15,739
From: RIP 'Chopper', 4/18/13 miss you bud:(
I wish a AE rep would let us know if this is correct. I know this is how we do it on 2wd AE stuff but this truck seems to have a pretty big height differnce between the chassis plate and rear tranny. 4x4's seem to be set-up pretty flat.
#1523
#1524
Tech Rookie
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 7
From: Los Angeles
alright still puting together my first sc truck, but there's an issue with the dog bones rubbing or hitting the diff cup lip when trying to compress the front and rear suspension to about 85%. The diff cup should be about 1.5mm shorter. Or the dog bones shorter by 1.5mm. Compress the springs and take a peek and the lip stops it short from travelling any further possibly leading to bent dog bones. anyone else?
#1525
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 2,974
From: Norwood, OH...and CCRCR and The OhioRCFactory
alright still puting together my first sc truck, but there's an issue with the dog bones rubbing or hitting the diff cup lip when trying to compress the front and rear suspension to about 85%. The diff cup should be about 1.5mm shorter. Or the dog bones shorter by 1.5mm. Compress the springs and take a peek and the lip stops it short from travelling any further possibly leading to bent dog bones. anyone else?
#1526
alright still puting together my first sc truck, but there's an issue with the dog bones rubbing or hitting the diff cup lip when trying to compress the front and rear suspension to about 85%. The diff cup should be about 1.5mm shorter. Or the dog bones shorter by 1.5mm. Compress the springs and take a peek and the lip stops it short from travelling any further possibly leading to bent dog bones. anyone else?
#1527
The rctech site went down on me about 10 mins ago...A warning pop up said the site could not open...I checked other sites and they were working fine eliminating my connection as the culprit...I just had finished up a nice sized post that inluded my experiences and inquiries of the day.
...Thing is, i'm tired from the long yet satisfying and rewarding day..I Will muster up the strength to repost at another time...As I am gonna hit the sack..Instead of counting sheep I may be counting Sc10 4wd's.
..What a day!
As a dorky burnout one said in a classic pinoneering for it's time comedy;
"Check ya laterzzzz"
...Thing is, i'm tired from the long yet satisfying and rewarding day..I Will muster up the strength to repost at another time...As I am gonna hit the sack..Instead of counting sheep I may be counting Sc10 4wd's.
..What a day!
As a dorky burnout one said in a classic pinoneering for it's time comedy; "Check ya laterzzzz"
#1528
the manual says :
shock oil is 25wt
diff oil is 3000wt
now I dont have 25wt but 30wt shock oil and I dont have 3000wt but 5000wt diff oil
I run on a small outdoor hardpacked clay track that is somewhat blownout.
what do you think should I buy 25wt and 3000wt or will 30wt and 5000wt a good starting point for me.
I was hoping to build my sc10 4x4 completly as the manual suggest.
but I do not have the exact same weight of the oils.
shock oil is 25wt
diff oil is 3000wt
now I dont have 25wt but 30wt shock oil and I dont have 3000wt but 5000wt diff oil
I run on a small outdoor hardpacked clay track that is somewhat blownout.
what do you think should I buy 25wt and 3000wt or will 30wt and 5000wt a good starting point for me.
I was hoping to build my sc10 4x4 completly as the manual suggest.
but I do not have the exact same weight of the oils.
#1529
T-Bird, I think you will be satisfied with the castle 3800, in this truck is feels smooth as silk. Im using a 16t pinion, and I'd say it goes 36-40 mph, with no heat issues. After 2 days at the track my 14t RRP alloy pinion was toast, so I put in the 16t and its much better for the track I run. Oh, ad I ordered som hardened 32p 1/8 bore pinions from Stormer. Will be hitting the track up today or tomrrow to test to see if the 16t is to much.
#1530
Ran my truck last night, and WOW, very impressed how well it handled, I had a smile on my face all night!!!
Here is the video of one of my qualifiers, my truck is the first one to start yellow and blue
http://s3.photobucket.com/albums/y93...t=68ad0b16.mp4
Thanks JMoneym!!!!
Here is the video of one of my qualifiers, my truck is the first one to start yellow and blue
http://s3.photobucket.com/albums/y93...t=68ad0b16.mp4
Thanks JMoneym!!!!



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