Community
Wiki Posts
Search
Like Tree5Likes

SC10 4x4 Thread

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 05-28-2011 | 02:40 AM
  #2401  
UK.hardcore's Avatar
Tech Elite
 
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 2,315
From: Belgium.
Default

Originally Posted by Guns
Im currently running a Viper VX10 speedo and LRP X-12 8.5T and when I mash the throttle or even get on it hard the truck stutters and dosent want to go. It makes a clicking noise so i thought it was the belt slipping but I have checked the belt and everything else in the drivetrain and cant seem to find it? Any clues to what would be causing this? Thanks!
Swap the lrp for something else. it could fix your problem.
UK.hardcore is offline  
Old 05-28-2011 | 04:10 AM
  #2402  
JEFFs SC10's Avatar
Tech Elite
iTrader: (15)
 
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 4,044
From: Orlandooooo, Fl
Default

if it stutters it might have clay/dirt inside the motor. take motor apart and blow it out with air.

blow out esc.

inspect and check to see if sensor wire is in all the way in, or has dirt inside or broken.
JEFFs SC10 is offline  
Old 05-28-2011 | 04:21 AM
  #2403  
woody13's Avatar
Tech Rookie
 
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 3
From: Canada
Default

Originally Posted by omalley72
I talked to a guy named Don at AE. I always heard that AE has great CS, but this experience left me for a loss. I couldn't beleive the run around I got. Not even an " I'm sorry" or "we'll get this taken care of". I tried calling him again today, no luck!!
Welcome to the waiting club
I called Don monday because my kit have only 1 front shock assembly. Quest what? they have nothing in stock! i need to wait a couple of week before receive my front shock!!!!!!!! My kit are brand new and the dust cover hit!!
woody13 is offline  
Old 05-28-2011 | 05:23 AM
  #2404  
murky123's Avatar
Tech Master
 
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 1,031
From: netherlands
Default murky's sc10 4x4


murky123 is offline  
Old 05-28-2011 | 06:53 AM
  #2405  
Tech Regular
iTrader: (13)
 
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 277
Default

Originally Posted by Dusttt
2 second mod makes pinion change simple. No special tools needed.
yes my car is dirty
This is exactly what my buddy did to mine, the spur cover has to come off to change 2hr pinion anyway, so put a small notch in the belt cover and no out of the ordinary crap to get the pinion changed.
Mike_Shepard is offline  
Old 05-28-2011 | 08:07 AM
  #2406  
Tech Master
iTrader: (77)
 
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 1,057
From: Mars, PA
Default

For sway bars, why wouldn't the AE sway bars for the T4/B4/SC10-2wd work for this truck (ASC9635)?
Wease is offline  
Old 05-28-2011 | 08:26 AM
  #2407  
JEFFs SC10's Avatar
Tech Elite
iTrader: (15)
 
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 4,044
From: Orlandooooo, Fl
Default

GRRRR Servo horn came off twice! What the hell.
Needless to say, didnt race.
JEFFs SC10 is offline  
Old 05-28-2011 | 08:36 AM
  #2408  
CentralCoaster's Avatar
Tech Regular
iTrader: (4)
 
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 324
From: San Diego, CA
Default

Was it the "A" horn by chance?
CentralCoaster is offline  
Old 05-28-2011 | 08:42 AM
  #2409  
CentralCoaster's Avatar
Tech Regular
iTrader: (4)
 
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 324
From: San Diego, CA
Default

Originally Posted by racer1812
What is DE doing different on the AE 4x4 wheel than on the Losi wheel which is said to fit??
At this rate DE will have their wheels out before AE does. Mine are still on backorder. The DE scte wheel fits perfect. It looks a hair thicker than the AE at the hub, but not like the protrac.

Some more internal ribs would be nice if possible, the SCTE wheel is very flimsy because there's no room for reinforcement on it.
CentralCoaster is offline  
Old 05-28-2011 | 08:44 AM
  #2410  
Tech Adept
iTrader: (4)
 
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 139
Default

Just FYI, I was able to successfully replace the horn without taking much apart at all, took less than 5 min total. I marked where the holders were bolted, and pulled them both, had to pull the clicker cover to get to one, than I pulled the front right camber link ball stud, As well as the upper shock nut to swing the shock out if the way, and was able to swing the servo sideways and replace the horn.
Dragrcr is offline  
Old 05-28-2011 | 08:46 AM
  #2411  
CentralCoaster's Avatar
Tech Regular
iTrader: (4)
 
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 324
From: San Diego, CA
Default

Originally Posted by mrbirchum
Another 4x4 newb question, everywhere I search for belt settings just says follow the manual for tensioner placement, make sure it feels right, etc. I just wonder if there is some definitive measurement or guide to know if a belt is tight or loose?
Belt tension is measured by pressing the center of the belt in with a specific amount of force, and measuring how far it deflects. Ideally there'd be a spec with a little safety factor built in. Running it any tighter serves no purpose IMO. But I have no clue how much that means on this car. Maybe there's a guide on an onroad car that discusses it.

They should have just put a spring tensioner on it, then there would be no adjustment needed, foolproof.

Anyways I have mine one notch down on both ends and so far so good.
CentralCoaster is offline  
Old 05-28-2011 | 08:48 AM
  #2412  
JEFFs SC10's Avatar
Tech Elite
iTrader: (15)
 
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 4,044
From: Orlandooooo, Fl
Default

Originally Posted by CentralCoaster
Was it the "A" horn by chance?
Whatever the hitec one is. im pissed lol
JEFFs SC10 is offline  
Old 05-28-2011 | 08:51 AM
  #2413  
Tech Regular
iTrader: (13)
 
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 277
Default

Originally Posted by Wease
For sway bars, why wouldn't the AE sway bars for the T4/B4/SC10-2wd work for this truck (ASC9635)?
I have a pair from a t4.1 they do fit but they seem a little weak for the job imo
Mike_Shepard is offline  
Old 05-28-2011 | 09:10 AM
  #2414  
itchy b's Avatar
Tech Elite
iTrader: (2)
 
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 4,144
From: In My Man Cave
Default

Originally Posted by CentralCoaster
Belt tension is measured by pressing the center of the belt in with a specific amount of force, and measuring how far it deflects. Ideally there'd be a spec with a little safety factor built in. Running it any tighter serves no purpose IMO. But I have no clue how much that means on this car. Maybe there's a guide on an onroad car that discusses it.

They should have just put a spring tensioner on it, then there would be no adjustment needed, foolproof.

Anyways I have mine one notch down on both ends and so far so good.
Regarding the belt tension, you dont want it to be on the tight side and its better to be a bit on the loose side so the drive train rolls nice and free.
Running it a litle on the loose side wont be a problem as i like my onroad cars to run the side belt that way, and it really frees up the drive train compared to running it too tight.
not sure if that makes any sense but ya'll shouldnt worry too much if the setting seems a bit loose with the front and rear tensioners helping to keep it where its supposed to be
itchy b is offline  
Old 05-28-2011 | 09:24 AM
  #2415  
t4mania's Avatar
Tech Addict
iTrader: (5)
 
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 541
From: Virginia
Default

Originally Posted by JEFFs SC10
Whatever the hitec one is. im pissed lol
Locktite the screw.. Servo horn for Hitec is H
t4mania is offline  


Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service -

Copyright © 2026 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.