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Old 10-13-2011 | 06:52 AM
  #8566  
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If I needed more steering center off on my truck, the first change I would do is increase droop in the front by one turn on the shock eyelets.

Chassis development is fun!
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Old 10-13-2011 | 06:56 AM
  #8567  
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Originally Posted by jpure009

Craig,
So, what r u saying......what Marcus said.?.
Right. I agree with Marcus.
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Old 10-13-2011 | 06:58 AM
  #8568  
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Originally Posted by 1Fastpede
No war. this is how we figure these trucks out.

you said "lowering the shims gave me more initial bite but less mid and exit steering... raising them worked the opposite"


What confused me is earlier in the thread you stated you needed more exit steering. but here your saying lowering the shims takes the exit away..but yet you got faster.


I haven't noticed a big change when raising or lowering. the exit steering i gained was when i moved the ball stud from the outside to the inside location on the tower. The general rule is that less = more push on exit.

If you got faster with less shims. then I need to try it out. I'm currently at 4mm front and rear. which was 2 or 3mm less than what Kinwald was running.
like you just said it is a minimal difference not enough to overcome what is really causing the exit push. it got better but not enough. yesterday i added 2mm to the rear RC and it over rotated especially at the end of the straight. at his point i dont think its rear rotation that i need but i need more front grip on exit which leads me to believe that the dif fluid is the culprit. I am very close to getting what i want , a few more test days and i think i will be there. keep in mind that i am running the 2 stage pistons which alter weight transfer dramatically.

it got quicker because of the sharpness on turn entry, although it still pushed on exit i can drive into the turns aggressively and i think you gain more time with turn entry than turn exit. dont get me wrong the truck is waaaaaaay better than before but why stop now? look at the leaps we have all taken in only a week! i have already dropped almost a second off of my time, thats progress!
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Old 10-13-2011 | 07:00 AM
  #8569  
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Originally Posted by BulldogSRT
What size pin are you guys using to pin the slipper? Would a wheel hex pin be strong enough or does it need to be a larger diameter?

BulldogSRT
I have a 3/32" hollow steel roll pin in mine, but a wheel hex pin would work fine. I wouldn't use anything real soft like a cotter key or a piece of coathanger.
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Old 10-13-2011 | 07:19 AM
  #8570  
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Originally Posted by murky123
I love the clicker unlocked. I can point an shoot at the apex of a tight turn and let the rear of the truck slide around ( very controlable )
You loose some on the braking ( because it only breakes on the rear )
you have to watch your jumps. it is a bit harder to get the nose down because of the front freewheeling off power and under breaking

Im not saying you will run your laps faster, but it is a very nice way of driving this truck. I really like it.
very smooth, non agressive way of driving

( note : i dont have to compete the losi's that much as you USA guys )
most trucks here are AE / durango . just 1 fast guy with a losi, I just let him go.
Exactly why I asked. I happen to prefer the truck with the clicker unlocked as well. Just want to know what handling characteristics might change if I pin the shaft.
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Old 10-13-2011 | 07:39 AM
  #8571  
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Hey Marcus ,
can you shoot a picture or explain your pack location . You have them forward or pushed back .

j
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Old 10-13-2011 | 07:50 AM
  #8572  
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Originally Posted by sugs
Exactly why I asked. I happen to prefer the truck with the clicker unlocked as well. Just want to know what handling characteristics might change if I pin the shaft.
Under acceleration, the chassis will be less prone to wheelie. It will also accelerate through bumps better, scratch that, it will just flat accelerate better. Almost for free - unless you already have an extra pin lying around, then it is free.
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Old 10-13-2011 | 07:56 AM
  #8573  
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Originally Posted by MantisWorx
dont get me wrong the truck is waaaaaaay better than before but why stop now?
So you can get a baseline for future development. You could do that in five or six runs. Write it down, so if you get totally lost you have a baseline setup you can fall back on that you know will work, but you also know isn't perfect and how it isn't perfect.

BTW, if I were you, the first change I'd make is to turn the timing up to 30 degrees and put a 12t pinion on it. Just sayin'.
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Old 10-13-2011 | 07:58 AM
  #8574  
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Originally Posted by dgrobe2112
just curious.. anyone here running an underbody? what are you using?

http://www.teamassociated.com/parts/details/91168/

is that for this truck?
Detailed info

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Old 10-13-2011 | 08:02 AM
  #8575  
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Originally Posted by old&slow
Hey Marcus ,
can you shoot a picture or explain your pack location . You have them forward or pushed back .

j
There is a whole thread on that topic here:

http://www.rctech.net/forum/electric...s-reviews.html
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Old 10-13-2011 | 09:45 AM
  #8576  
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Does anyone have a link to pictures of the Assocaited team drivers and their SC4x4 vehicles?

Mark
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Old 10-13-2011 | 09:54 AM
  #8577  
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I Spy...


















Last edited by 1Fastpede; 10-13-2011 at 10:08 AM.
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Old 10-13-2011 | 09:56 AM
  #8578  
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Originally Posted by CraigMBA
So you can get a baseline for future development. You could do that in five or six runs. Write it down, so if you get totally lost you have a baseline setup you can fall back on that you know will work, but you also know isn't perfect and how it isn't perfect.

BTW, if I were you, the first change I'd make is to turn the timing up to 30 degrees and put a 12t pinion on it. Just sayin'.
i have everything written down on a journal, im kinda anal like that. i didnt like the 12t high timing at all , not enough bottom end and out of RPM's too quickly. for some reason people still think that smaller pinion equal's more punch on a brushless motor, its simply not true. im at 30* and 16/62 right now, way more bottom end and plenty of top end, i can actually manipulate the truck in the air . im even going to try 17 to see what happens motor temps are 155 and ESC is 125 after a full pack so im pretty close to where i need to be.
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Old 10-13-2011 | 10:01 AM
  #8579  
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Originally Posted by old&slow
Hey Marcus ,
can you shoot a picture or explain your pack location . You have them forward or pushed back .

j
all the way to the right and:
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Old 10-13-2011 | 10:14 AM
  #8580  
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^^ Orange rear anti-sway...hmm. I can sense lots of FT parts coming
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