Got pics by any chance?

Does anybody know where I can get the best price on an exotek chassis? They used to be $89 on trick-parts.com, but have since gone up to $99.99.

Thanks for all your help.

$94.99 if you are a member which when you sign up, you can use your points right away basically making it "free" membership.

Lowering the camber link inside and outside give the truck less roll. I drilled a new hole lower about 2mm lower to test this Sunday and really liked it for PRCR.

I ran them Sunday with no issues. The aluminum is machined nicely and the bearings fit tight in the hub. The pin has almost zero play. They did fit tight in the arm with the stock spacers but I just filed the arm a little to give some extra clearance. Long term if the pin gets sloppy I will add a set screw to them. I purchased these so I can make my own custom camber tabs so they are great for what I want to do with them.

For 24 shipped to my door I expected a $h!t product but was pleasantly surprised.

No, its the opposite. Raising the stud at the tower lowers the roll center so raising it at the hub will raise the roll center.

Just seen this on associateds web page.

http://teamassociated.com/news/lates...X4_Upgrade_Kit

this is old new bud, released last thursday. Thanks for your input though.

What's up?

PM me updates for the main page.

Maybe a mod can change the owner of this thread?

I sold my SC10 4x4 months ago.

Craig

I have read this thread every day from day one.

I will step in and offer to take over the maintenance of the first post, if they can do the switch?
I know some tricks to make it look good!
Or I could start a new thread?

what do you guys think?

ok guys found a motor and esc now its a cc 3800 and esc stc set up. now where do i start my gearing at now.

Ok after stripping a servo horn and breaking my servo saver I was wondering if anyone is using an alum. servo that will fit the sc10 using either a savox or spektrum servo, as well as anyone have the strc alum. servo setup installed on their sc10 as well and how do you like them? Thanks

Guys,
I posted earlier about a clicking noise under hard throttle and while turning. I read about shimming in the diff so I ordered the kit to give to the LHS tech. He called today to say that the diff was fine and that it was all ready shimmed and that he couldn't fit another in and still get the pin back in. He did notice that the left rear cva was missing the pin retainer and thinks that could be where the noise is coming from. Just wondering what you guys think and also if anyone else has noticed them missing from the factory rtr trucks.
Thanks again guys
Jody

In the rear the bearing is the pin retainer for the CVA. The retainers are only used in front.

Just got back from more testing: I rebuilt the rear dif and it was working much better now so i could actually drive the truck hard. First outing i removed the idler gear so basically i was only testing the blue front/rear springs, i also went up in oil to 25 wt with V2 2 stage 1.1/1.2. truck handled EXCELLENT until......... THA QUADS!! i am still underpowered and the track was muddy which made it harder to get a enough speed to clear them but even still it just wanted to go nose up and i couldnt get it down with having 100% brake. Now on the other hand it handled the smaller jumps much better and jumped level with no effort. Its almost like the faster you go the more gyro effect you get and the more the front wants to wheelie , which makes sense. Track was too sticky and slow to even mess with the triples. It was a beast around the rest of the track.
Went to the pits installed the idler gear and changed nothing else, on the second lap i cleared the quads easily and the truck landed flat for at least four laps in a row! I went ahead and attempted the triples and it cleared the first time pretty easily but on the second try i landed on a stake and broke something in the steering (havent looked at it yet). Also since i went back to back i got a better feel for the handling differences, i was able to get on the gas sooner and harder on exit with plenty of steering. The truck seemed to follow the steering better if that makes any sense. I didnt have to try so hard to line the truck up for jumps. It also has much better steering response and corner speed.

So in a nutshell, clearing the quads with no idler involves alot of brake and more of an "art" to get it over with any consistency . yes it can be done but not comfortably.With idler gear you just hit the jump, stay on about half throttle and thats it. Still more testing to come but i ate another idler so im ordering an aluminum HOT racing piece today.

I'm thinkin about making the switch over to ae , I've already bought and built my rc8.2 buggy, and next on the list would be sc 4x4 . I'm reading there are mods that need to be done to this truck , can someone please put together a list( and detail if needed) about these mods , or are these more towards the first models. I would be buying the new FT model . Thanks