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Old 03-12-2012 | 05:10 PM
  #19066  
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Originally Posted by losi_racer
I'm thinkin about making the switch over to ae , I've already bought and built my rc8.2 buggy, and next on the list would be sc 4x4 . I'm reading there are mods that need to be done to this truck , can someone please put together a list( and detail if needed) about these mods , or are these more towards the first models. I would be buying the new FT model . Thanks
Most of the mods done to the original have been addressed in the FT version........

FT Version: clutch setup, chassis brace, saddle pack conversion, ackerman bar, swaybars...........

Other options not included in the FT version are: Exotek chassis, rcshox products (dual stage pistons, center diff).......

For the optional ones, run the FT version first and see how you like it, before thinking about the optional parts.....
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Old 03-12-2012 | 05:12 PM
  #19067  
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Originally Posted by MantisWorx
Still more testing to come but i ate another idler so im ordering an aluminum HOT racing piece today.
FYI. I tried that on my 2wd and it eat the plastic diff. gears.

I would think you would need an aluminum diff. too for that to work well
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Old 03-12-2012 | 05:22 PM
  #19068  
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Originally Posted by losi_racer
I'm thinkin about making the switch over to ae , I've already bought and built my rc8.2 buggy, and next on the list would be sc 4x4 . I'm reading there are mods that need to be done to this truck , can someone please put together a list( and detail if needed) about these mods , or are these more towards the first models. I would be buying the new FT model . Thanks
I would say when you buy the FT version, go ahead and pick up the front spring kit as you may find that the front spring rates work better on the rear as others have found.

I would also consider where you are running as well. If its a 1/8 track with monster jumps, currently getting the car to perform as it should against the competition is a work in progress but I think what what people are coming up with could get it there.
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Old 03-12-2012 | 05:35 PM
  #19069  
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I planned on the ft version , where I run is made for 1/10th scale and I think the losi handles like a slug so I think this might fit me well


2 things I'm wondering tho , I keep hearing saddle packs come up , Is this the way to go?

Also what size motors fit in these? I have a viper XL VST 5.5
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Old 03-12-2012 | 05:37 PM
  #19070  
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don't recall, but if the FT doesn't include the longer ball studs, you may want to order a set of those too.
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Old 03-12-2012 | 05:49 PM
  #19071  
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Originally Posted by losi_racer
I planned on the ft version , where I run is made for 1/10th scale and I think the losi handles like a slug so I think this might fit me well


2 things I'm wondering tho , I keep hearing saddle packs come up , Is this the way to go?

Also what size motors fit in these? I have a viper XL VST 5.5
The saddle pack is just one way to balance the sc10 better, I personally don't use it I just added weights in certain areas and to me it saved me from buying saddle packs which I don't have (good thing about FT SC10 is you have the option to run either saddle or stick packs)..........

The viper should fit with no problem, it may be a little snug/tight fit but you may have to grind down a part of the chassis to get it to fit better.......
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Old 03-12-2012 | 05:53 PM
  #19072  
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Originally Posted by Cameron Kellogg
Lowering the camber link inside and outside give the truck less roll. I drilled a new hole lower about 2mm lower to test this Sunday and really liked it for PRCR.



I ran them Sunday with no issues. The aluminum is machined nicely and the bearings fit tight in the hub. The pin has almost zero play. They did fit tight in the arm with the stock spacers but I just filed the arm a little to give some extra clearance. Long term if the pin gets sloppy I will add a set screw to them. I purchased these so I can make my own custom camber tabs so they are great for what I want to do with them.

For 24 shipped to my door I expected a $h!t product but was pleasantly surprised.
where did you drill the hole? can you show a pic? I want my truck to handle solid. I have some body roll, its nothing terrible but I so see it. maybe I should go up in roll bar first. I run a 1.8 now.
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Old 03-12-2012 | 05:58 PM
  #19073  
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Originally Posted by ilanstylz
The saddle pack is just one way to balance the sc10 better, I personally don't use it I just added weights in certain areas and to me it saved me from buying saddle packs which I don't have (good thing about FT SC10 is you have the option to run either saddle or stick packs)..........

The viper should fit with no problem, it may be a little snug/tight fit but you may have to grind down a part of the chassis to get it to fit better.......
So 550's are snug?
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Old 03-12-2012 | 06:01 PM
  #19074  
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Originally Posted by losi_racer
So 550's are snug?
Not all of them, I believe the only ones are novak and viper which are about 72mm in length, other 550's like lrp and tekin are only 66mm in length....
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Old 03-12-2012 | 06:01 PM
  #19075  
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Originally Posted by MantisWorx
Just got back from more testing: I rebuilt the rear dif and it was working much better now so i could actually drive the truck hard. First outing i removed the idler gear so basically i was only testing the blue front/rear springs, i also went up in oil to 25 wt with V2 2 stage 1.1/1.2. truck handled EXCELLENT until......... THA QUADS!! i am still underpowered and the track was muddy which made it harder to get a enough speed to clear them but even still it just wanted to go nose up and i couldnt get it down with having 100% brake. Now on the other hand it handled the smaller jumps much better and jumped level with no effort. Its almost like the faster you go the more gyro effect you get and the more the front wants to wheelie , which makes sense. Track was too sticky and slow to even mess with the triples. It was a beast around the rest of the track.
Went to the pits installed the idler gear and changed nothing else, on the second lap i cleared the quads easily and the truck landed flat for at least four laps in a row! I went ahead and attempted the triples and it cleared the first time pretty easily but on the second try i landed on a stake and broke something in the steering (havent looked at it yet). Also since i went back to back i got a better feel for the handling differences, i was able to get on the gas sooner and harder on exit with plenty of steering. The truck seemed to follow the steering better if that makes any sense. I didnt have to try so hard to line the truck up for jumps. It also has much better steering response and corner speed.

So in a nutshell, clearing the quads with no idler involves alot of brake and more of an "art" to get it over with any consistency . yes it can be done but not comfortably.With idler gear you just hit the jump, stay on about half throttle and thats it. Still more testing to come but i ate another idler so im ordering an aluminum HOT racing piece today.
what's different about the v2 pistons? I should have left my truck there longer to get all the v2 stuff.

what drag brake do you run? On the jumps I ran on, my truck was level to nose down every time.

I love your pistons but my truck feels to squishy, that's the best way to describe it, I want to firm it up some.
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Old 03-12-2012 | 06:02 PM
  #19076  
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Originally Posted by JEFFs SC10
what's different about the v2 pistons? I should have left my truck there longer to get all the v2 stuff.

what drag brake do you run? On the jumps I ran on, my truck was level to nose down every time.

I love your pistons but my truck feels to squishy, that's the best way to describe it, I want to firm it up some.
Go with a thicker shock oil, Mantis did ;-)
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Old 03-12-2012 | 06:10 PM
  #19077  
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Originally Posted by ilanstylz
Go with a thicker shock oil, Mantis did ;-)
I like 30/27.5 on high grip and 27.5 / 25 on medium-low
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Old 03-12-2012 | 06:19 PM
  #19078  
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Originally Posted by ilanstylz
Not all of them, I believe the only ones are novak and viper which are about 72mm in length, other 550's like lrp and tekin are only 66mm in length....
Yea the XL is 72 mm . What needs done to the chassis
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Old 03-12-2012 | 06:20 PM
  #19079  
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Originally Posted by JEFFs SC10
what's different about the v2 pistons? I should have left my truck there longer to get all the v2 stuff.

what drag brake do you run? On the jumps I ran on, my truck was level to nose down every time.

I love your pistons but my truck feels to squishy, that's the best way to describe it, I want to firm it up some.
Jeff, that is how the pistons work, if you want a stiff slower truck then put stock pistons on!!! The point of Two stage is to absorb irregularities on the track which in turn keeps the tires on the ground which in turn increase traction. If you firm them up you will go slower and lose the advantage of them. You cant have it both ways!!I drove your truck and it was only a few tenths slower than mine at the time, and that was just tires. If the truck is jumping like it suppose to and not traction rolling , just leave it alone and drive it!! You should only have to change tires and batteries...... JUST DRIVE THE TRUCK JEFF, DRIVE THE TRUCK!!!
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Old 03-12-2012 | 06:23 PM
  #19080  
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hahah ok I won't give up yet.
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