SC10 4x4 Thread
Tech Master
iTrader: (7)
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 1,595
From: Illinois
Relative? Absolutley. And probably the best bang for your buck in a competitive truck. I agree the truck does have a problem in its FT or team versions, Example: if your already wide open throttle and you hit a big tripple it likes to go nose to the sky. But on smaller indoor track I just blip the throttle and it flies good, but if I hold it wide open its nose up and unrecoverable with brakes. These are my observations. Not looking for any trouble or arguments or angry debates.
That store owner throwing all the barts in the bargain bin is most likely because the truck just doesn't break! I put one of mine thru hell and back on indoor and never broke a thing bone stock for 2 years. then i fully modified a Ft version and broke one titanium ball stud due to 6mm of washers I put under it. Hope this helps. Buy one!
That store owner throwing all the barts in the bargain bin is most likely because the truck just doesn't break! I put one of mine thru hell and back on indoor and never broke a thing bone stock for 2 years. then i fully modified a Ft version and broke one titanium ball stud due to 6mm of washers I put under it. Hope this helps. Buy one!

Don't get me wrong, I really like it, handles great and is relatively durable but now that all my diff fluid has leaked out of the rear diff I'll probably park it for a while. It's a pta to take the entire rear end apart and rebuild the diff. I do enjoy tuning and fixing but I would rather have more wheel time then wrench time. It's a shame to because I had it dialed pretty well for our track and it screams down the main straight on two wheels with the pro4 4600 and 14t pinion.
Tech Regular
iTrader: (4)
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 451
From: tx rchq
That's because the rooms not unloading on you anymore If you go to front springs in the rear you get the same thing
Won't need to change the servo arm for a longer one , stock fits almost perfect steering rack performs great.
Last edited by Wild Cherry; 05-16-2013 at 09:47 PM.
Lowered Servo Mod
Can notice this change , truck will be less tippy , less roll...
step 1
*Before removing servo
mark the servo's location on the bottom chassis.
*grind the X brace on botton chassis flush & grind the ridge on the back of chassis as well.
*Mount the blue servo mounts on servo and mark the location to drill holes in chassis.
Can notice this change , truck will be less tippy , less roll...
step 1
*Before removing servo
mark the servo's location on the bottom chassis.
*grind the X brace on botton chassis flush & grind the ridge on the back of chassis as well.
*Mount the blue servo mounts on servo and mark the location to drill holes in chassis.
Chassis Brace Mod
Lowers chassis brace about 4mm
Helps reduce body roll, makes truck feel less tippy.
Also the front brace gains leverage & strenght.
The mount screw will not bend as easy & break .
* remove the spacer from the front mount & grind 4mm off the rear mount
Lowers chassis brace about 4mm
Helps reduce body roll, makes truck feel less tippy.
Also the front brace gains leverage & strenght.
The mount screw will not bend as easy & break .
* remove the spacer from the front mount & grind 4mm off the rear mount
Ae's unbeatable QUAD pad VTS Slipper
Makes for smoother handling and improved traction , less wheel spin , better landings off jumps...
* add 1 Ae metal VTS slipper ring & 1 VTS slipper pad
* use the Ae heavy duty pad behind the spur gear
* adjust lock nut so the threads are just below the nylon on the nut
*use lock tight on slipper nut
Makes for smoother handling and improved traction , less wheel spin , better landings off jumps...
* add 1 Ae metal VTS slipper ring & 1 VTS slipper pad
* use the Ae heavy duty pad behind the spur gear
* adjust lock nut so the threads are just below the nylon on the nut
*use lock tight on slipper nut
Last edited by Wild Cherry; 05-17-2013 at 11:03 AM.
Reedy 4100 65c Shorty
helps reduce weight & smoother body roll , better jumping & landings
*reduces weight of truck about 100 grams compared to saddle packs.
*use the Losi foam blocks , they fit just right...
helps reduce weight & smoother body roll , better jumping & landings
*reduces weight of truck about 100 grams compared to saddle packs.
*use the Losi foam blocks , they fit just right...
Last edited by Wild Cherry; 05-17-2013 at 11:00 AM.
Motor cover, belt cover's & back plastic back plates
Removes excess top weight , makes for less chassis roll.
Truck will feel less tippy....
* Remove rear motor & belt cover & plastic back plate , no mod nessesary.
*Remove front cover
Removes excess top weight , makes for less chassis roll.
Truck will feel less tippy....
* Remove rear motor & belt cover & plastic back plate , no mod nessesary.
*Remove front cover
Forgot
My truck weights 5.2 lbs body , tires & shorty..
all of it makes for speed you will appreciate when leading or chasing the other trucks ....
ricky
you will never become a winner by giving up and trying to buy instead of working & earning the reward of victory....
My truck weights 5.2 lbs body , tires & shorty..
all of it makes for speed you will appreciate when leading or chasing the other trucks ....

ricky
you will never become a winner by giving up and trying to buy instead of working & earning the reward of victory....
Last edited by Wild Cherry; 05-17-2013 at 11:29 AM.
Or when it does break no one wants to go through the trouble of fixing it! 
Don't get me wrong, I really like it, handles great and is relatively durable but now that all my diff fluid has leaked out of the rear diff I'll probably park it for a while. It's a pta to take the entire rear end apart and rebuild the diff. I do enjoy tuning and fixing but I would rather have more wheel time then wrench time. It's a shame to because I had it dialed pretty well for our track and it screams down the main straight on two wheels with the pro4 4600 and 14t pinion.

Don't get me wrong, I really like it, handles great and is relatively durable but now that all my diff fluid has leaked out of the rear diff I'll probably park it for a while. It's a pta to take the entire rear end apart and rebuild the diff. I do enjoy tuning and fixing but I would rather have more wheel time then wrench time. It's a shame to because I had it dialed pretty well for our track and it screams down the main straight on two wheels with the pro4 4600 and 14t pinion.
I'd be curious to see how that diff comes apart for that 1/8 buggy that looks like a clone of the SC10 4x4.



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