the stock balls work fine if your only going up 4mm. You will just need the AE Carbon C hubs for the b4/b44.

Imrob
use the 12mm ball stud #91121 when you do the Mod ...

you dont need that for 4mm, that is if you want to go +7. But by all means spend the money if you like, it wont hurt.

personally I'd use these:

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXBARL&P=7

bit more, but you get extras.

Im running exotek rear hubs and I like the 10mm tini ball studs for 4 to 6mm and 12mm tini for 8mm. That way yo get plenty of thread engagement. Same for the inner studs. (Note:Exotek hubs require 2mm to be stock height so +4mm is actually +6mm on those hubs requiring longer studs to achieve the same result as the buggy hub mod)

I found that raising the outer stud to 4mm kept my truck from traction rolling as much meaning I get more camber as the truck leans because the tire stays flatter to the track surface. This works really well for me on indoor bluegroove. I use the m2c toe block at 3.5deg for more forward traction.

Jstsll-
You like the mc2 for 4seasons? What did it do for your truck? Lock it in? Keep it from swapping ends and sliding out?
And can your corner as fast and as tight with it?

My truck never swaps ends. More forward traction. Cornering is really good, at the end of the straight I can carv the turn very hard. My setup is completley different that what most people run but it's working awesome for me. Ill be at four seasons today at 4 to test the R10 pro 2-3s esc if you want to check my truck out.

I wish I could go. I would like to try it for sure, maybe next week or weekend I can make it down there as its been a bit since I ran there.

Have you posted your setup here before ? Or can you post it?

The current layout is sick right now, it flows so good. Designed by Mike Brown. I run 3.5 toe on all my cars/trucks so I'm used to it. If I were you I would copy cherrys setup as he is a seasoned vet and I'm just a guy that runs for fun. I might race saturday at 4s if I like the way this esc works. But I haven't raced since the xxt/xxxt days 1995 or 1996. Then I quit rc for several years. I've been practicing about every weekend for the last 5 year's. A problem I have is to many vehicles to get perfect with one.

Yes we are bother running the John W. setup right now. Slightly different camber link adjustments from each other and I have an alum steering rack and saver that I am about to swap out for plastic again. But that's it

Im running the exotek rack with no problems. Why are you switching back to stock?

It's a strc rack and servo saver. so it dosnt have the factory team geometry and it makes it push and drive different than. The factory team rack.
The exotek is the same geometry as the ft rack

Tore apart my new diff kit and had to add another shim to the inside of the outdrives.. Seems to be much better, but the amount they give you is NOT enough. (1 per each side).

Anyone else have this issue with the new diff packs?

Oh I see. They must have copied the original rack but I never had a problem with that one either. Are you running +3mm wheels? I have found my truck doesnt turn as tight with them but the gain in stability is there so I use them. Hazard or F11 wheels.

That's weird I'm not using any shims outside, I tried but couldn't get the inside pins in. It seemed like the FT kit came with thicker shims for the inside than the original kit. On my old basher truck the out drives are pretty loose but still no clicking even on 3s with the 1410 lol.