So thats the b4.1 hub? Interesting, let us know how it works out

plus 1

+1

A lot of people come here trying to go "faster". I always assume they are racing their friends up and down the street and most of the advise given is to help them drag race. But when it comes to the track, sheer horsepower and speed hardly ever win the race. I have always been faster with a stock motor in my b4 than a mod motor. One way to make my lap times crap is ad a bunch of speed. But... If your a pro level driver and can handle and utilize the power to your advantage, then its butter. So like 2% of us need max horsepower for racing. I run a reedy 540 7.5 and I can keep up with everyone in my skill level. I just have to watch my temps.

I recently had an issue like mentioned above with speed. I was running a 13.5 in my b4 buggy. And there was a double that literally everyone cleared. Even the novice drivers with their rtr kits cleared it. But I was casing the jump. I was running my esc blinky even though no one else did. It was blinky from MOD the week before when I ran a 10.5. So, I went into the esc and added 20% of variable timing. Ran a few laps and temped at 120ish. I was now able to clear the jump, but the little added power was not over whelming. BTW it was not a hard jump, it was just spaced far apart on the back straight. Like I said all of the novice could do it clean. Anyway, just thought I would share.

** Also, I agree with cherry about smooth power. I would never keep a motor that was not smooth.

+1

love my novak 550 4.5 trun it dose ok. am at 12 62 and in the mid 30 mph is its sound right speed ?

One more and YOU will have cleared the quad. j/k

thanks for the reply.

Unfortunately I'm not running an RX8 or my RS Pro in my SC10, I have a Hobbywing 120a ESC, the one that can run 1 cell.
In the punch setting it is called Start Mode and labelled level 1 to 9.
I have it on 1.
I have boost timing on 0 degrees and turbo timing off.

I drove it today and although I spent a fair bit of time avoiding kids who wanted to chase it round the track it felt better for having the drag brake removed and a little cooler at the end of a pack. Moving the rear camber link inboard and changing to front blues all round helped as well.

wow didnt think about using the b4.1 b-tabs, looks like you actually get 3 holes of adjustment on camber length lol, using the plastic b4 hub i still really only getting "1" and "2" in relationship to the standard sc104x4 hub.

I was there that night. Had to restart the main when 1/2 the field wrecked in the first turn! You don't see my truck much in that video, mainly due to the fact that I was no where near as fast as those guys! Keep an eye out for me on Wed's. I'm there pretty much every week now. Still trying to learn to drive like the big boys.

I'm sorry, but I'm not sure what you mean. The optional "C" hub that everybody is running is shorter than the plastic "A" and "B" hubs. I should be over 8mm.

hubs have 3 holes that change turnbuckle length (camber). if you use the C towers or b4 plastic you only get the 2 inner holes for "length" in comparison to the stock sc104x4 hub.

but using the b4.1 b tower like you did it looks like all 3 holes line up very well. any chance of a straight on shot from the back? any chance of you measuring the increase in height from stock ballstud?

Try if your wheels fit over them first. I tried to use them and the inside "spokes" of the stock wheels caught on them so the wheel wouldn't turn.

You really only get 1 and I guess -1 on the carbon ones unless you run them toward the outside by a hole on the bottom.

ahh idk didnt mess with them i just used a plastic b4 hub i had laying around, clears the rims easily, and since i got to drill my own holes i could go from +7 to +10, but did go +8 lol.

my outer hole lines up with the middle on stock
and middle on mine lines up with inner on stock.

i have never really liked a shorter link in the rear, so tried to find my own way around it without getting some g10 lol