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Old 06-30-2012 | 03:47 PM
  #25831  
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Originally Posted by JEFFs SC10
Took truck out to local track, got ride height straight and truck was dialed and super easy to drive. Haven't driven it in a while.

Had one issue though. My wire would come unsoldered at the deans connector. Anyone else run across this problem running a Pro4? Temps were low but maybe I'll pinion up to ease the load. I don't want to change from Deans if I can help it.
What batteries are you running? I had the same issue when I was running the gens ace 40c, and found that the resistance was too much and caused it to melt the solder either at the deans or the bullets going into the battery. I did gear it down and it helped, but also hurt the performance. I've since upgraded to better packs and haven't had the problem since. Hope this helps
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Old 06-30-2012 | 03:49 PM
  #25832  
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Originally Posted by SloMoFo
The only motor that I have ran so far in mine is a novak 6.5 geared with the stock spur and a 14 tooth pinion. It is pretty quick, though it gets a little warmer than I would like. I think that it would be cooler with a torque rotor and then move back up to a 16 tooth pinion. I race at leisure hours and it is a pretty large outdoor track, one guy I know of runs a 10.5 and keeps up just fine.

As for a speed control I fully endorse BrushlessHobbies.com 120a speed control. You cant get a better deal, $60 shipped from the US with a usb cable.
+1 for BH120, but they have a new model out and its like $67 now, lol
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Old 06-30-2012 | 04:58 PM
  #25833  
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with 2 cell batteries on my sc10 4x4 i am unsure about the numbers and what they mean. my current race battery is a 2 cell 5800 mAh 60c lipo and runs good, but lacks power middle to end of a run. so is my battery pretty close to the optimal numbers? or should i change it?
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Old 06-30-2012 | 05:06 PM
  #25834  
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Originally Posted by dakotafroader
What batteries are you running? I had the same issue when I was running the gens ace 40c, and found that the resistance was too much and caused it to melt the solder either at the deans or the bullets going into the battery. I did gear it down and it helped, but also hurt the performance. I've since upgraded to better packs and haven't had the problem since. Hope this helps
Gens Ace 20c saddles. (they're cheap) I think the deans connector from gens ace isn't a true deans, but I do agree with you that there must be a lot of resistance there. The batteries have done great so far for what I paid for them. I might try some turnigy's next cause supposedly they are 65c which is hard to believe.

I'm running a 13tooth pinion so that may be part of my issue. I'll step up to a 14 and see what that does. The 4600 makes so much power that I don't need the extra speed but I'll do it to decrease the load. I'm running an Exotek so my truck is a little heavier compared to most. (but I like it that way)

i'll try changing the connector out and see if that solves the issue. (cheapest fix)

I have a set of orion's from my b44 that I can chuck in there after I try those things.
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Old 06-30-2012 | 05:09 PM
  #25835  
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Originally Posted by dmlaesc10
with 2 cell batteries on my sc10 4x4 i am unsure about the numbers and what they mean. my current race battery is a 2 cell 5800 mAh 60c lipo and runs good, but lacks power middle to end of a run. so is my battery pretty close to the optimal numbers? or should i change it?
losing power at the end is normal but if it is dropping off significantly then that might be a sign of a weaker battery. how long is your run time and when is that happening? 60c should have plenty of punch. who is the mfr?
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Old 06-30-2012 | 05:31 PM
  #25836  
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Being that those are 20c.... I bet that's going to be the issue right there. Changing out to a true deans connector might help.... Also I would go down to a 12 or even 11, instead of going larger on pinion
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Old 06-30-2012 | 06:12 PM
  #25837  
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Originally Posted by SloMoFo
The only motor that I have ran so far in mine is a novak 6.5 geared with the stock spur and a 14 tooth pinion. It is pretty quick, though it gets a little warmer than I would like. I think that it would be cooler with a torque rotor and then move back up to a 16 tooth pinion. I race at leisure hours and it is a pretty large outdoor track, one guy I know of runs a 10.5 and keeps up just fine.

As for a speed control I fully endorse BrushlessHobbies.com 120a speed control. You cant get a better deal, $60 shipped from the US with a usb cable.
So youre saying id be able to run just a normal 1/10 setup? Obviously geared way different, but same motor and speed control
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Old 06-30-2012 | 06:17 PM
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Originally Posted by JEFFs SC10
losing power at the end is normal but if it is dropping off significantly then that might be a sign of a weaker battery. how long is your run time and when is that happening? 60c should have plenty of punch. who is the mfr?
about 6 or 7 minutes is when you can really tell a difference but it slowly decreases from the start on
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Old 06-30-2012 | 06:39 PM
  #25839  
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Originally Posted by dakotafroader
Being that those are 20c.... I bet that's going to be the issue right there. Changing out to a true deans connector might help.... Also I would go down to a 12 or even 11, instead of going larger on pinion
Ok I can try out the Orion's and see if it helps.
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Old 06-30-2012 | 07:23 PM
  #25840  
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Originally Posted by AErckidd
So youre saying id be able to run just a normal 1/10 setup? Obviously geared way different, but same motor and speed control
yes you can, but it is not as simple of just ANY 1/10th setup in it.

for speed controls - as it seems like you like tekin (and alot do) you would want the rs pro and if you have followed this thread, some have ran the rs pro with the tekin 5.5 sc4x and some with a 6.5 540 brushless motor.

but if you want to run a motor like the pro4 or the tenshock for example you will want to run an rx8 or other higher amp speed control.

with a 550 you generally run the 32p spur/pinon, with 540 you run 48p spur/pinon.





550 on the left, 540 in the middle, a 550 motor has more torque due to the extra magnet length which is very nice with these heavier 4x4 trucks.
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Old 06-30-2012 | 08:44 PM
  #25841  
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Yea but if you dont already have the RS Pro you might as well get the RX8 because it is actually cheaper somehow.
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Old 06-30-2012 | 08:57 PM
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Originally Posted by JEFFs SC10
Best way to know is to temp it after a few laps.
i like to use an onboard temp gauge that can measure the temps of the motor and record its max temp. i dont care how fast you are with a temp gun , you never get the hottest temp.

i use a venom temp gauge. make sure the sensor is behind the motor where the least amount air will get to it and the hottest part of the motor will be.

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Old 06-30-2012 | 09:37 PM
  #25843  
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Originally Posted by twisted
i like to use an onboard temp gauge that can measure the temps of the motor and record its max temp. i dont care how fast you are with a temp gun , you never get the hottest temp.

i use a venom temp gauge. make sure the sensor is behind the motor where the least amount air will get to it and the hottest part of the motor will be.

'someone' messed with their diff just recently.


My pro4 blew up bigtime. Bearing explosion and I screwed the rotor trying to press, pry, pull the bearing off. This is the second bearing in a month. I'm a little frustrated but sigh, I like the motor.

Last edited by CoyoteSlash; 06-30-2012 at 09:50 PM.
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Old 06-30-2012 | 10:20 PM
  #25844  
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Just don't think a Tekin RS is a good pick for the SC10, on the RX8 it's not an easy fit in the SC10 either..I'm still trying to find a good speed controler..I'm running a viper copperhead right now..was running a MMP with a 4 pole 3800kv and it wasn't enough..
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Old 06-30-2012 | 10:30 PM
  #25845  
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Originally Posted by Oasis
Just don't think a Tekin RS is a good pick for the SC10, on the RX8 it's not an easy fit in the SC10 either..I'm still trying to find a good speed controler..I'm running a viper copperhead right now..was running a MMP with a 4 pole 3800kv and it wasn't enough..
i like the tc spec.. its small and light weight, super easy to fit in the sc10 with saddles. just recently put hazards rims on.. makes the truck handle much better and more stable.. used to run the stock ae rims and the truck was not as "planted" just in my opinion
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