5LikesSC10 4x4 Thread
06-26-2012 | 08:01 AM
Tech Legend
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 22,595
From: TRCR Modified Driver
Any of you guys running an LRP TC spec v2 with a Reedy Sonic 4.5 550? Where should I start for a pinion? I race in 2 diffferent series and we race on many different tracks ranging from a tiny indoor facility with 13sec lap times known as Bashers all the way to big 1/8th tracks with 100' straightaways. I know I will be changing gearing accordingly but just looking for a starting point. 11,12,13.. 12,13,14... Suggestions?
been using Reedy Sonic 4.5 550
use a 12 or 13T(32p) on med size indoor , comes in at 130 degree
on smaller track use the 11t.
Last edited by Wild Cherry; 06-26-2012 at 08:28 AM.
06-26-2012 | 08:45 AM
06-26-2012 | 10:04 AM
Just curious... I'm trying some new set-ups and see that many of the pros run 24-25mm in ride height. I set mine at 25mm and it seems way to low 
I've got 25wt in the rear and 30wt in the front. When I push down on the rear, it barely comes back up because I have the spring collar all the way up to the top.
Is this what most of you guys run?
I've got 25wt in the rear and 30wt in the front. When I push down on the rear, it barely comes back up because I have the spring collar all the way up to the top. Is this what most of you guys run?
06-26-2012 | 10:06 AM
Most people on here from what I've read run 24mm ride height, I am down to 23mm because of the new layout at my local track......
06-26-2012 | 10:08 AM
Tech Addict
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 533
From: Tustin, Ca
he's pretty dialed guy so i listen to him.. but when i drove the car it seemed like it was dancing all over the place.. so i went back to 24 all around it was fixed.. i think his set up was a bit different from mine.. preference maybe..
06-26-2012 | 10:43 AM
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 5,719
From: At dirt tracks in Michigan!
Keep in mind the ride height is measured at the center chassis in front of the rear wheel and behind the front wheel. If you measure 23 mm at the very back below the rear diff the center section of the chassis will be way too low.
06-26-2012 | 12:09 PM
Tech Master
iTrader: (13)
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 1,207
thats why i like measuring by the dog bone instead. no confusion there. right now my bones are slightly below level.
06-26-2012 | 01:35 PM
Tech Legend
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 22,595
From: TRCR Modified Driver
Tips on setting ride height
*measure from ft & back center chassis
*24mm is standard height or med
*Higher traction =lower ride height
*Less traction = higher ride height
rear height
22.5mm max low
25 mm high
ft height
23 low
25 high
*measure from ft & back center chassis
*24mm is standard height or med
*Higher traction =lower ride height
*Less traction = higher ride height
rear height
22.5mm max low
25 mm high
ft height
23 low
25 high
06-26-2012 | 01:58 PM
Tech Adept
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 168
I just went to put on the Saddle pack conversion & stripped
2 of the 3x10mm FHS, putting on the L/R cradles???
The screws were going in nice & easy from the bottom of the chassis,
then half way thru they started get really hard to turn. I pulled them out
and tried again & when I got half way thru, they were impossible to turn,
and finally the heads got stripped. It is the same with both Left & Right cradles..
What is going on, was I suppose to thread the screw holes??
I'm using the Exotek chassis, but that had nothing to do with it...
Now I have to get the screws out, with a dremel and
get more 3x10mm FHS, great!??
by the way, I'm using the AE saddle conv....
help if you have an idea what went wrong?
2 of the 3x10mm FHS, putting on the L/R cradles???
The screws were going in nice & easy from the bottom of the chassis,
then half way thru they started get really hard to turn. I pulled them out
and tried again & when I got half way thru, they were impossible to turn,
and finally the heads got stripped. It is the same with both Left & Right cradles..
What is going on, was I suppose to thread the screw holes??
I'm using the Exotek chassis, but that had nothing to do with it...
Now I have to get the screws out, with a dremel and
get more 3x10mm FHS, great!??
by the way, I'm using the AE saddle conv....
help if you have an idea what went wrong?
06-26-2012 | 02:19 PM
I would stick a thin probe into the holes and make sure they are around 10mm deep. maybe they were not made correctly. You could use a 3mm large hex head screw to pre thread them also. the friction of making new threads for the small hex of the FHS, might be too much.
06-26-2012 | 02:37 PM
cant put a price on good tools, especially into new plastic.
sometimes its alot easier to "pre thread" a new piece before trying to mount it using the same screw that is meant to go into the part.
when i first put my saddle kit in my truck i had the same "harder to tighten" about half way, but with good tools just make sure your pushing down while turning so the tool "stays" deep in the hex instead of more toward the surface.
i had some screws that i thought my old dynamite 'throw-away' hexs had stripped but with some new integy tools (not even the most expensive tools either) they came right out like the screw was new.
sometimes its alot easier to "pre thread" a new piece before trying to mount it using the same screw that is meant to go into the part.
when i first put my saddle kit in my truck i had the same "harder to tighten" about half way, but with good tools just make sure your pushing down while turning so the tool "stays" deep in the hex instead of more toward the surface.
i had some screws that i thought my old dynamite 'throw-away' hexs had stripped but with some new integy tools (not even the most expensive tools either) they came right out like the screw was new.
06-26-2012 | 04:41 PM
When building a kit or installing a new plastic part, I always use a tap. Not always necessary, but a tap cuts a nice thread in the plastic. Much better than you can cut with a screw. Not always necessary, but I do it anyway. You can always strip out the plastic, taping does not make it bullet proof against over tightening, but I find the plastic will go longer and it's definitely easier to run the first screw in.
06-26-2012 | 05:07 PM
When building a kit or installing a new plastic part, I always use a tap. Not always necessary, but a tap cuts a nice thread in the plastic. Much better than you can cut with a screw. Not always necessary, but I do it anyway. You can always strip out the plastic, taping does not make it bullet proof against over tightening, but I find the plastic will go longer and it's definitely easier to run the first screw in.
06-26-2012 | 07:28 PM
ft sc104x4.. bout to buy one...
What parts beyond the kit should I get with it? If you started over what would you do?BB shocks? tires? motor? Is the mmp good enough esc or should I keep that in the 2wd and buy something else?
Thanks..
What parts beyond the kit should I get with it? If you started over what would you do?BB shocks? tires? motor? Is the mmp good enough esc or should I keep that in the 2wd and buy something else?
Thanks..
06-26-2012 | 07:28 PM
Tech Initiate
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 31
From: Oklahoma City, OK
Is it me, or can anyone else get to the last page listed? I click the ">" or the next page number, in this case 1712 link and it brings me back to page 1711. Tried on work and home PC, so I don't think it is a computer issue.