Touche. I farm for a living, but double nuting it never crossed my mind. But that will certainly work. Then again, I can't imagine where I'll ever need a one way.

Ive seen a lot of people on here running the brace between the front and rear trannys. Where are you getting them and what are your personal benifits?

I have only raced mine twice so I am still finding a base set up. Havent done a lot of adjusting from the stock set up. Last time I was out, I put 30wt in the fronts and 25wt in the rear which made a big difference and moved the wheelbase to short for some more traction on the rear. Ride hight was 26 front and 28 rear. JC DD's all around. Turning was great but I had to play with the speedo so it wouldnt come to a screeching halt when I was off power. Track is medium size with some larger jumps but not a lot of long straights. It was also damp and slick but felt good and traction started to come around towards the end of the main. Qualed 4th and took second in a 10 minute main. Won 50 bucks!

I just got my Momba Max Pro into today. Only problem is that all of the wires are too short as I want to direct solder the motor and put bullets on the power wires for direct connection to the battery and replace all the wiring with 12G Deans ultra wire.

Looks like the outer casing pops off to get access to the hardpoints, but it's covered by a sticker, anyone know if doing this will void the warranty? Has anyone else done this or do you just go with the connector and bullets for the motor?

Also, I'm running the pro4 with this, can you run the tekin pro4 using the smart sense dealy (switches from sensored to sensorless at higher RPMs) or will that cause problems with the motor?

Thanks

Belts stops skipping on landing and braking. simple as that.

You can buy them from me. or go over to some other places that charge you twice as much.

I run Castle bullets on everything. It works fantastic. if you're using the removable esc tray, it's nice to disconnect. But: The direct link will be I believe Insignificantly better. Those Castle gold connectors are good stuff.

As far as the warranty from a sticker. No. Cutting Motor wires on a Castle from working at the LHS is a mixed bag. I've had people denied warranty from cutting those 4pole motors up.

Anyone? Also when I screw the 3 screws from the diff to the motor plate it seems to torque the plate out of alignment?

can the belt stretch that much where no matter what adjustment , it still slips? good god mine makes that belt slip noise that is embarrassing. I might try and throw a new belt on it before sending it to marcus. there's a race this weekend, guess i'm running 2 wd.

I know the feeling. Im on my third belt and my truck has made some nasty sounding noises when on the brakes when the stretch. Everyone stares at your truck then asks you what is broke when your done.

http://www.fastlapproducts.net/Products.html

This would be un soldeing and then soldering new wires on the ESC. I'm using the Tekin pro4 which doesn't come pre-wired so I really wanted to just run new wires straight to it.

But thinking it over, i'm going to go with the bullets. will make it much easier to swap motors if I have a problem or borrow one if need be. Also, this will make it easier to disconnect the esc so I can use the usb link for programming without having to have the whole truck around.

Agreed. I switch between my 550 and my 540 on the fly. Those High quality bullets. (key point here) are very efficient and not a hinder to the power.

Make sure the transmission is seated properly.

I did the saddle pack conversion. Anybody have any home made braces they made or pics?

So not a one of you got a kick out of my CoyoteTech Chassis huh...


So much Sad Panda going on right now.

i laughed when i saw the picture