SC10 4x4 Thread
Lately i have been using a small piece of any servo tape on one side (L) of the ESC and then Shoo Goo on the other(R), once it dries its not going to come off unless you pry it off!
Just picked up the front and rear sway bars. Installed them my self. Who ever said it was easy is nuts. The rear were so hard to screw in to the joints. The frame is in the way. This is my 8th mod to it. Keeping the motor and esc still stock. I just want to hit the track and have fun. By the way this truck can take one pounding. I'm on my second body so far. Now I think there is an issue with the rear end ill know more on Saterday. This is a wonderfull product cost a ton to get it here. But this site has helped me a lot. I'm still only a month or two in to the hobby but I love it. Easy way to spend your pay checks. Go sc10. Nice machine TE
Alright ill look into the shoe goo idea. I figured if I glue it right to the esc tray I can just remove that when I want to clean the truck ect... Thanks for the info
New to a SC10 4x4, bought one to run outdoors, long time racer B4.1/2, long time AE race. I like to modify things as well LOL.
Questions, shock upgrades? anyone try a 16 mm BB from an 1/8th scale RC8E.2 maybe?
Can you tell me all the best mods to do to one, i read into the Exotek chassis, seems pricey, but hey its racing. Then the slipper lockout plate they make. What else?
Some of the highlights of my truck so far.
Novak Ballistic 4.5, Flow & fan, Ds1015 servo, shorty's or saddles, JC Hi Flow body, Hazards with some blockades to start (loose outdoor, 1/8th scale track, dry usually).
Thanks for any suggestions.
Krom.
Questions, shock upgrades? anyone try a 16 mm BB from an 1/8th scale RC8E.2 maybe?
Can you tell me all the best mods to do to one, i read into the Exotek chassis, seems pricey, but hey its racing. Then the slipper lockout plate they make. What else?
Some of the highlights of my truck so far.
Novak Ballistic 4.5, Flow & fan, Ds1015 servo, shorty's or saddles, JC Hi Flow body, Hazards with some blockades to start (loose outdoor, 1/8th scale track, dry usually).
Thanks for any suggestions.
Krom.
- M2C Rear Toe in Block (3.5 degree toe setting)
- Exotek Chassis
- RC Shox Center Diff
- RC Shox dual stage pistons
- Front AE Spring Kit to use on Rear
There was some testing doe on 16mm big bore shocks by a variety of people on this thread and it sounded like they worked really well.
Pretty much the main complaint against the SC10 4x4 that I would still say is unresolved is that on large jumps, there isn't as much control for in air corrections, nose up or nose down like other designs. It seemed like if you came off the jump at all wrong, it wasn't possible to save like other cars. And sometimes it wasn't consistent, sometimes its nose up, or down, etc on the same jump with the same approach. I even noticed this indoors carpet for more consistent surface.
You may find benefit like AE mention that one of there drivers did to not go for the big triple or whatever like other 1/8 based cars can do (Tekno, SCTE, etc) and single double, or whatever. Play to the strengths of the vehicle.
If you would like a setup to try, feel free to shoot me an pm with your email address. If was the final one I came up with outdoors that I felt worked really well and uses the parts I mentioned.
Good luck though, outside of the issue I mentioned above and the general quirks of the vehicle that are known (more to get to the diffs, etc) I enjoyed my sc104x4 but wanted to share parts with my Tekno EB48, so went with the SCT410.
George how are the Tekno's and V2 Losi's doing now that the brand new smell is fading?!!
Pretty much the main complaint against the SC10 4x4 that I would still say is unresolved is that on large jumps, there isn't as much control for in air corrections, nose up or nose down like other designs. It seemed like if you came off the jump at all wrong, it wasn't possible to save like other cars. And sometimes it wasn't consistent, sometimes its nose up, or down, etc on the same jump with the same approach. I even noticed this indoors carpet for more consistent surface.
You may find benefit like AE mention that one of there drivers did to not go for the big triple or whatever like other 1/8 based cars can do (Tekno, SCTE, etc) and single double, or whatever. Play to the strengths of the vehicle.
If you would like a setup to try, feel free to shoot me an pm with your email address. If was the final one I came up with outdoors that I felt worked really well and uses the parts I mentioned.
Good luck though, outside of the issue I mentioned above and the general quirks of the vehicle that are known (more to get to the diffs, etc) I enjoyed my sc104x4 but wanted to share parts with my Tekno EB48, so went with the SCT410.
You may find benefit like AE mention that one of there drivers did to not go for the big triple or whatever like other 1/8 based cars can do (Tekno, SCTE, etc) and single double, or whatever. Play to the strengths of the vehicle.
If you would like a setup to try, feel free to shoot me an pm with your email address. If was the final one I came up with outdoors that I felt worked really well and uses the parts I mentioned.
Good luck though, outside of the issue I mentioned above and the general quirks of the vehicle that are known (more to get to the diffs, etc) I enjoyed my sc104x4 but wanted to share parts with my Tekno EB48, so went with the SCT410.
My limited experience with my SC10 4x4 is very simliar. On the 1/8th scale tracks that I run on, the Losi and Tekno can clear the big triple, the SC10's can not. The difference is 3-4 seconds per lap. We are 2-3 seconds per lap off the pace. So the SC10 can make up some of the difference but not all on the current track configuration. I will continue to tweak and try to close the gap. I just enjoy driving the truck.
Tech Apprentice
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 75
would someone know the difference between the two different inner slipper hubs offered...????
Team Associated Inner Slipper Hub
ASC91092
and
Team Associated Factory Team Coupled Slipper Hub (Inner)
91188
thanks and sorry if it has been asked before?
Team Associated Inner Slipper Hub
ASC91092
and
Team Associated Factory Team Coupled Slipper Hub (Inner)
91188
thanks and sorry if it has been asked before?
The "coupled" slipper hub is an option part that ties the front and rear drivetrain together, and eliminates the variable slipping action of the stock "decoupled" VTS. The power of the motor is applied equally to both the front and rear drivetrain, they will always spin at the same speed irregardless of the traction conditions. The stock configuration allows some "slippage" between the front and the rear drivetrains, meaning they will spin at different speeds depending on the traction conditions encountered.
Tech Adept
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 189
Just finished up our indoor winter/spring series. The sc10 4x4 did great. We are on a very tight indoor track and was able to take the series win the sc10 4x4. Lots of mip losi's, regular losi's, and a few tekno's and durangos. Overall a good year of racing. It was nice to be on something different then most and pull off some wins. Settled on Kinwald's setup but with the coupled slipper.
My conclusions are:
Maifield's setup is a good starting point for bigger outdoor
Kinwald's setup is a good starting point for tighter indoor
The truck can turn, but doesn't handle the rough as well as the triple diff trucks. Its not very stable while braking over rough stuff, especially when running maifields setup. The locked coupler and no center diff will put the truck on its nose when braking hard over the rough. The truck set the lap record our tight indoor track, with the mip losi's getting within 2/10ths of a second.
Durability is awesome... I've replaced a rear diff and a rear idler gear in 1.5 years of racing, usually at least 6 battery packs a week.
I would say that if you are from a 1/10 2wd background then you will have a higher chance of success with this truck. It drives more like a 2wd than other 4wd shortcourse trucks IMO.
Just thought I'd post a sc10 4x4 success story... don't hear too many.
I did just pick up a 2.0 to try something new. I'll be hanging on to this truck just in case.
My conclusions are:
Maifield's setup is a good starting point for bigger outdoor
Kinwald's setup is a good starting point for tighter indoor
The truck can turn, but doesn't handle the rough as well as the triple diff trucks. Its not very stable while braking over rough stuff, especially when running maifields setup. The locked coupler and no center diff will put the truck on its nose when braking hard over the rough. The truck set the lap record our tight indoor track, with the mip losi's getting within 2/10ths of a second.
Durability is awesome... I've replaced a rear diff and a rear idler gear in 1.5 years of racing, usually at least 6 battery packs a week.
I would say that if you are from a 1/10 2wd background then you will have a higher chance of success with this truck. It drives more like a 2wd than other 4wd shortcourse trucks IMO.
Just thought I'd post a sc10 4x4 success story... don't hear too many.
I did just pick up a 2.0 to try something new. I'll be hanging on to this truck just in case.



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