5LikesSC10 4x4 Thread
11-28-2011 | 09:34 AM
Tech Addict
iTrader: (2)
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 516
I have my first 4x4 sc10 kit coming at the end of this week and im wondering what are suggested for hop-ups? sugestions for extra parts that usually break or have a weakness? and as well which ones would just be best to switch to aluminum? any help would be great thx.
11-28-2011 | 09:57 AM
11-28-2011 | 10:17 AM
11-28-2011 | 10:50 AM
11-28-2011 | 11:06 AM
Tech Elite
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 2,069
Long thread and you should stop being a noob and read it all, blah, blah blah, but it def helps to have some reference to search by.
Look into the slipper setup/issue, pin mod, arm warping, brace / new exotech chassis to prevent belt slipping on hard landings and hard breaking (been a problem for some but not me)
I haven't heard much about people upgrading to Al for hub carriers and stuff like that, those pieces seem stiff and durable.
11-28-2011 | 11:38 AM
I currently run a Novak HV 5.5 550 motor and mmp esc. I purchased the sc10 4x4 complete and came with this setup. I am happy with it so far, but don't know if a different motor is preferred. Ive only had the sc10 4x4 for a few weeks. I've been trying to keep up with this thread for all the great info and must say you guys rock!. I run a 1/10 scale indoor high traction track in the winter and a 1/8 scale outdoor track good traction, not blown out, in the warmer months. My question is what is the pros/cons of the 550 vs 540? Not trying to start a motor size war, just would like to hear comparisons from personal experiences. I also have a Novak ballistic 17.5 540 motor with a 13.5 & 10.5 stator. Would this motor be enough power with another sized stator?
11-28-2011 | 11:59 AM
Tech Regular
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 323
From: Catalunya, Spain
A good 4pole 540 will be faster, cooler, lighter and more efficient than a 2pole 550.
If you were referring to 2pole 540s, then the main difference is smoothness. A 2pole 540 on a SCT is extremely smooth. But you'll want to go with a 5.5T X12 Octa and the biggest rotor available.
If you were referring to 2pole 540s, then the main difference is smoothness. A 2pole 540 on a SCT is extremely smooth. But you'll want to go with a 5.5T X12 Octa and the biggest rotor available.
11-28-2011 | 12:34 PM
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (2)
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 808
From: In a VAN down by the RIVER
11-28-2011 | 12:36 PM
Anybody running the V2 holeshots? ON indoor hardpacked?
I've ran barcodes and rebars so far. Which have worked well, I think the barcodes work better than the rebars.
I run a small pin Panter tire, switch I think, on my E 1/8. The buggy is a treat to drive and is real predictable.
Just wondering if that'll translate to the truck. I'm not real jazzed about the proline foams though.....
Most all the 4x4 1/10 buggy guys run holeshots at the track. Everyone else runs some kind of barcode/suburb/wishbone deal...
I've ran barcodes and rebars so far. Which have worked well, I think the barcodes work better than the rebars.
I run a small pin Panter tire, switch I think, on my E 1/8. The buggy is a treat to drive and is real predictable.
Just wondering if that'll translate to the truck. I'm not real jazzed about the proline foams though.....
Most all the 4x4 1/10 buggy guys run holeshots at the track. Everyone else runs some kind of barcode/suburb/wishbone deal...
11-28-2011 | 12:51 PM
Anybody running the V2 holeshots? ON indoor hardpacked?
I've ran barcodes and rebars so far. Which have worked well, I think the barcodes work better than the rebars.
I run a small pin Panter tire, switch I think, on my E 1/8. The buggy is a treat to drive and is real predictable.
Just wondering if that'll translate to the truck. I'm not real jazzed about the proline foams though.....
Most all the 4x4 1/10 buggy guys run holeshots at the track. Everyone else runs some kind of barcode/suburb/wishbone deal...
I've ran barcodes and rebars so far. Which have worked well, I think the barcodes work better than the rebars.
I run a small pin Panter tire, switch I think, on my E 1/8. The buggy is a treat to drive and is real predictable.
Just wondering if that'll translate to the truck. I'm not real jazzed about the proline foams though.....
Most all the 4x4 1/10 buggy guys run holeshots at the track. Everyone else runs some kind of barcode/suburb/wishbone deal...
11-28-2011 | 01:27 PM
Tech Adept
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 138
From: OC - CA
OK OK, I messed up. Sorry to everybody who put the ackbar on per instructions on rcshox.com. I messed up after Marcus explicity told me to put them on a certain way. Somedays I am just retarded
The ACKbar needs to be put on the opposite way show. Also, snug the screws that hold the ACKbar down, and then back of 1/2 a turn. There is no need to overtight them! For quick dissasembly and re assembly, you can take the left side screw out, then you can rotate the righthand bellcrank until the screw is exposed. Rotate the ackbar so that the horns are facing forward. Put the righthand bellcrank and ackbar together then the left. Quick tip, to keep the aluminum spacers from folling out during assembly, put a dab of black grease on the outside of the spacer, then put it into the bottomside of the ackbar underneath the bearing.
Sorry Marcus and anyone else I screwed up
I had knee surgery, and was on vicodin... thats my excuse!
The ACKbar needs to be put on the opposite way show. Also, snug the screws that hold the ACKbar down, and then back of 1/2 a turn. There is no need to overtight them! For quick dissasembly and re assembly, you can take the left side screw out, then you can rotate the righthand bellcrank until the screw is exposed. Rotate the ackbar so that the horns are facing forward. Put the righthand bellcrank and ackbar together then the left. Quick tip, to keep the aluminum spacers from folling out during assembly, put a dab of black grease on the outside of the spacer, then put it into the bottomside of the ackbar underneath the bearing.
Sorry Marcus and anyone else I screwed up
I had knee surgery, and was on vicodin... thats my excuse!
11-28-2011 | 01:36 PM
Ran my SC10 4x4 this weekend for the first time.
Only had a VXL motor, and a Sidewinder SCT esc. No power=Terrible finish
I was running against a sponsored driver, and one partially sponsored driver. Both running Losi's. Little club race. I got second though.
This thing REALLY needs some better electronics. My RX8 esc and SC4x 4.5 are supposed to be a birthday present. Seems that cannot get here any quicker.
I found the stock setup, with different shock oil and the clicker locked, wasn't all that bad. I didn't have enough power to really tell though.
I did notice the slipper... uh, sucked. Pinned slipper shaft and Garodiscs ordered.
Only had a VXL motor, and a Sidewinder SCT esc. No power=Terrible finish
I was running against a sponsored driver, and one partially sponsored driver. Both running Losi's. Little club race. I got second though.
This thing REALLY needs some better electronics. My RX8 esc and SC4x 4.5 are supposed to be a birthday present. Seems that cannot get here any quicker.
I found the stock setup, with different shock oil and the clicker locked, wasn't all that bad. I didn't have enough power to really tell though.
I did notice the slipper... uh, sucked. Pinned slipper shaft and Garodiscs ordered.
11-28-2011 | 02:37 PM
this car feels more precise. It also took a minute to get used to it being deathly quiet. Out of the box, the Losi is pretty much dialed in but this car seems like it has more potential with the right setup.
The biggest issue for me is that it seemed to traction roll a lot.
The biggest issue for me is that it seemed to traction roll a lot.
For your traction rolling, try putting 3mm of washers under both front and rear inner camber ball-studs. (I'm using part number 31286) Lowering the roll centre like that was the single most noticeable improvement to my truck in the early days. The truck was smoother in and out of corners and traction rolling was ALMOST a thing of the past. Just keep a few 10mm ball studs handy...this mod does make it slightly easier to bend one on a hard side impact.