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Old 09-22-2012, 01:30 AM
  #39496  
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Huh.....that's exactly right, the left rear and right front. Interesting, why don't the other two?

Anyway whats a good temp fix? Don't believe I have long enough spares and being in Aus, getting anything local will be near impossible as most things need to be ordered in....
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Old 09-22-2012, 04:50 AM
  #39497  
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Originally Posted by Suteki
Huh.....that's exactly right, the left rear and right front. Interesting, why don't the other two?

Anyway whats a good temp fix? Don't believe I have long enough spares and being in Aus, getting anything local will be near impossible as most things need to be ordered in....
What are you actually trying to get the Temps down on? Motor or ESC?

Gearing and depending on what motor it is, less boost if you're using it and lower the current as well. I lowered mine on my RX8 and dropped 10-15 degrees.
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Old 09-22-2012, 05:08 AM
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Originally Posted by Rockthecatbox21
Yeah not too good of an idea on a semi-scale class on de's part. Would be cool for club racing though.
Mmmmm, probably NOT. Using them under any circumstances infers that they are OK - and they're NOT. Plus, there are always a bunch of newcomers around tracks and they tend to do what the 'fast guys' do; so in a sense you'd be leading by example the wrong direction. Just about any thread on this site has several posts by folks saying to the effect: THAT SUCKS, it's ok for me to do that at my home track.... and now we see how that line of thought and disagreement begins.... I (along with lotsa' others) believfe that this class should be maintained in 'semi scale' fashion - using stuff that looks like the 'big trucks' run....

Originally Posted by Suteki
Huh.....that's exactly right, the left rear and right front. Interesting, why don't the other two?

Anyway whats a good temp fix? Don't believe I have long enough spares and being in Aus, getting anything local will be near impossible as most things need to be ordered in....
They rotate in the 'tightening' direction - remember: righty tighty, lefty loosey!

As a temporary a small dab of shoe goo or a similar product should probably keep them from backing out - use a toothpick and put a small dab on the inside hole of the slot where the shock goes in the arm.
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Old 09-22-2012, 05:23 AM
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Nope, don't have shoe goo either, I'm in Australia. If we have it I certainly haven't seen it. That's why I was thinking loctite.....hmmm.

However, with regard to the left hand screws, won't they ruin the threads considering they have already been made for regular screws?
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Old 09-22-2012, 07:04 AM
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Originally Posted by Suteki
Nope, don't have shoe goo either, I'm in Australia. If we have it I certainly haven't seen it. That's why I was thinking loctite.....hmmm.

However, with regard to the left hand screws, won't they ruin the threads considering they have already been made for regular screws?
No issues at all!!
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Old 09-22-2012, 08:57 AM
  #39501  
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Originally Posted by Kuya_Kimo
I've ran my SCTE with a Tekin RX8 for a year now. I was forced to use my backup hobbywing xerun 120a today and loved that ESC so much. It's not as punchy but I don't lose anything from my pro4 4600.

Now, since the fan is a problem....
What's the difference between the xerun 120amp and the sct pro?
Hey Kuya,the SCT Pro is more heavy duty,mo insulation, it is said!!

Originally Posted by Suteki
Nope, don't have shoe goo either, I'm in Australia. If we have it I certainly haven't seen it. That's why I was thinking loctite.....hmmm.

However, with regard to the left hand screws, won't they ruin the threads considering they have already been made for regular screws?
If it happened a lot then the arms may crack at that point or the holes may heave oversized.If yer lucky and none of that happened than you will be fine wit left hand ones.As a quick fix use tire clue and screw em back in works well!!Cheers!
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Old 09-22-2012, 09:03 AM
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Originally Posted by Suteki
Nope, don't have shoe goo either, I'm in Australia. If we have it I certainly haven't seen it. That's why I was thinking loctite.....hmmm.

However, with regard to the left hand screws, won't they ruin the threads considering they have already been made for regular screws?
No the left hand screws work great. I have used them on mu buggys and truggy and no more backing out. If you need a temporary fix put a little CA on the threads and screw them in. You can still break them loose when you are ready to do a permanent fix.
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Old 09-22-2012, 09:04 AM
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Originally Posted by BmainStar
Hey Kuya,the SCT Pro is more heavy duty,mo insulation, it is said!!

If it happened a lot then the arms may crack at that point or the holes may heave oversized.If yer lucky and none of that happened than you will be fine wit left hand ones.As a quick fix use tire clue and screw em back in works well!!Cheers!
Ha ha great minds think alike but you were too fast for me!
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Old 09-22-2012, 09:09 AM
  #39504  
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My daughter has been running a SC10 4X4 for awhile now. She has the Havo Pro SC and 4.5 Ballistic motor. It's always ran great and motor temps never got over 150. I bought a 2nd SCTE from a friend recently that was basically brand new. It came with the MMP SCT 550 2400 combo. Last week, the SCTE had a little bit of throttle glitching but I haven't had time to check it out. Last night, she broke her SC10 so I moved her Novak system to the SCTE. She ran her first qualifier like she was on fire! Man, the truck was fast and had tons of torque, but, she died on the last lap. I had to race so a couple of guys helped her with the truck and the motor temp'd at 203 and two wires had come loose. There is a possibility that I didn't do a good solder job and something happened to cause the motor to heat up after 5 minutes.

I had a 12 tooth pinion on the Novak 4.5. I seriously thought that this ratio would be just fine in the truck and wasn't concerned when we didn't have time to test it. Anyone else running the Ballistic 4.5 550 motor in this truck? If so, what ratio are you running?

Also, since the Castle SCT 2400 system seems to be working fine now, what ratio are you running with it? I know right now, it has the largest pinion you can run with the stock spur, but its pretty slow down the straight.

Sorry for the newbie-like questions. I usually do my own research. But when I am down to my last spare motor, I want to get some experienced advice
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Old 09-22-2012, 09:14 AM
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Originally Posted by Jake C6R
Ha ha great minds think alike but you were too fast for me!
Ha,Ha Great minds think alike or Fools seldom differ You will have to make atrip out the 210 fwy E where it ends and come race at the new indoor track we have IERC to find out if i am actually faster LOL
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Old 09-22-2012, 09:28 AM
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Try running a 13 or 14t pinion. These brushless motors have a sweet spot that they like to run. If overgeared, the motor may be revving too much. Also take apart the motor and check the bearings and clean out any dirt with a brush and compressed air.
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Old 09-22-2012, 09:58 AM
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Thanks for the reply. I wondered if maybe I had it under geared, but with as fast as it was down the back straight, I doubt it lol. The more I have read this morning, the more I am sure it failed due to my rushed solder job. I am thinking a wire came loose and shorted somewhere. I'm not upset, the motor has been around awhile and has always been reliable. A new stator and possibly a new sensor board and it will be back in business

I'll let her run the MMP system for now. I need to gear it up just a bit and she'll be just fine. Again, thank you for the reply
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Old 09-22-2012, 10:08 AM
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My guess is that the motor/pinion is perfectly fine and that you have bind somewhere. What wheels were you using? If you moved the sc10 Hazzard wheels over, they bind at the front when you turn...... that's my guess.

Chech the driveline next for anything bound.

Kuya

Originally Posted by Deja Vu
My daughter has been running a SC10 4X4 for awhile now. She has the Havo Pro SC and 4.5 Ballistic motor. It's always ran great and motor temps never got over 150. I bought a 2nd SCTE from a friend recently that was basically brand new. It came with the MMP SCT 550 2400 combo. Last week, the SCTE had a little bit of throttle glitching but I haven't had time to check it out. Last night, she broke her SC10 so I moved her Novak system to the SCTE. She ran her first qualifier like she was on fire! Man, the truck was fast and had tons of torque, but, she died on the last lap. I had to race so a couple of guys helped her with the truck and the motor temp'd at 203 and two wires had come loose. There is a possibility that I didn't do a good solder job and something happened to cause the motor to heat up after 5 minutes.

I had a 12 tooth pinion on the Novak 4.5. I seriously thought that this ratio would be just fine in the truck and wasn't concerned when we didn't have time to test it. Anyone else running the Ballistic 4.5 550 motor in this truck? If so, what ratio are you running?

Also, since the Castle SCT 2400 system seems to be working fine now, what ratio are you running with it? I know right now, it has the largest pinion you can run with the stock spur, but its pretty slow down the straight.

Sorry for the newbie-like questions. I usually do my own research. But when I am down to my last spare motor, I want to get some experienced advice
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Old 09-22-2012, 10:12 AM
  #39509  
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Originally Posted by BmainStar
Hey Kuya,the SCT Pro is more heavy duty,mo insulation, it is said!!
I bought the sct pro last night, wanted it in black so I paid $10 more. Once my rx8 comes back, it'll be my backup.
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Old 09-22-2012, 11:17 AM
  #39510  
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Originally Posted by Deja Vu

Also, since the Castle SCT 2400 system seems to be working fine now, what ratio are you running with it? I know right now, it has the largest pinion you can run with the stock spur, but its pretty slow down the straight.
Not sure if you are running 2S or 3S, but I tried the 2400kV with 3S, and I can't get enough top speed out of it. Geard it with 20T pinion, and it's not enough; it would need a larger spur gear, which is not an option. Maybe if I had a higher C rated 3S battery, or a small 4S, but the stock 2800kV is much faster on 3S and even does great on 2S.
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