idk how you think it was alot of work, cutting it took 90 seconds for both cuts.

took some 1x1 i had laying around and just buzzed it down the middle to clamp the carbon fiber strip into to do it on the table saw, cause there isnt much to hold onto with those strips.... then i just used the pieces that where cut when i cut the strips to "brace" the t4 chassis when i cut it to keep chatter down.

Not 5 minutes til ready to run though..

Jake ,I'm sure you can achieve a very good
cut with a table saw as well .



Just think though , all I do now is mark the lines with a scribe, place the chassis on the miter saw & cut twice. No braces or clamping, ect ....


Thought about bringing my saw to our track for others to use , beats the Dremel big time & like I said hardly a need to even sand.

The cuts are square straight across , parts fit perfect together...

Have cut 4 now , and recommend to anyone to try if they have a decent miter saw available ....

I had help ....

Cherry, you should try a compound cut. It would give you even more glue surface.

Bet compound cut is a little stronger BD , but so far
from my track experience ?

Even with a sloppy Dremel cuts, light shining between the cuts ..

No failures seen thus far, from me or my teammates ..

I have a little feed-back on the blue speaker wire that was discussed a few post back...

I went ahead and put it on my speed control and battery wires, and could tell no differance from the stock wire...It didnt get hot, and looks killerThe only con I could come up with is that the wire isn't as flexible as the stock wire...Other that that I loved it...

Racer53

to change the topic, any1 who has an lrp speedo remember to calibrate it with your radio it makes the brakes much stronger and settings more noticeable. thanks

Don't you have to calibrate or match the radio to the ESC for it to work ? You know , press the set button ,light turns red , pull full thottle , light turns green , then reverse ...... then it is matched / calibrated .

Or is calibrating something else ?

yea but it worked for me out of the box with out it on 3 speedos.

Thanks everyone for their help with my questions so far...

More:
Are these the correct shock kits? I see other FT versions around...
Front: http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...ront-Shock-Kit

Back: http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...Rear-Shock-Kit

Yup, those are the correct ones.

You're always supposed to calibrate your ESC to your transmitter... LRP, Tekin, doesn't matter... otherwise it wont know where your endpoints are.

i just rebuilt my diff which was getting pretty gritty after running the car alot, flipped the rings and kept the carbide balls in, when i used it again car did not react quick and felt sluggish, is that the diff to tight loose ? I also went back to the manual setup....

loose