Thanks alot.will be checking this out soon

While reading all of these setup sheets online and on forums I keep seeing this much weight here and this much there....but how does the car weigh when all is said and done (total weight)....If your buggy ends up at 2000 grams it's a pig and needs a diet.I would just like to see total weight on these sheets.....JUST A THOUGHT.

just add weight as desired and weigh your buggy.

Of all the people to answer first, right?

The diff slippage is from the ceramic balls, they are so smooth and hard the balls actually have less grip than the carbide balls. I sand my diff rings with 400 grit sandpaper when using ceramic diff balls. Since the diff balls have no grip, you have to give the rings grip. Of course sanding the rings will have to be done as part of maintenance now because the harder diff balls will eventually polish a groove into the diff rings causing the slip to come back. I'm actually considering switching to carbide diff balls and using ceramic for the thrust balls.

The short neck (black) ballstuds are used on the steering rack. It affects bump steer I think in a way that settles the front end down in the bumpy parts.

Those are the questions I had an answer for. Hope it was helpful.

After spending a winter with a 12R5.1 weight is critical and is so-in-so has an extra 20 grams added to his car how far over weight is he and if he isn't over than that changes everything......ea..lighter turns fasster and that means everything!

Not necessarily for mod. In mod you have more than enough power to move around a few extra grams of weight. And you are placing those grams inside the wheel base to counter weight outside the wheel base (the motor). I would agree, in the past you always wanted to be at the absolute min. weight. Not so much anymore.

There seems to have been a lot of discussion around weight the past few days. I user a fair amount of weight on my b4.1. These mod buggies are so fast with brushless motors that it helps to add some weight to the key areas of these cars. 1. to keep the nose down on high traction and two to balance out the chassis side to side as the esc and wire are actually alot more weight than the rx and transponder. Addiont weight is a good thing when used correclty. It does not matter how you lower lap times... If you can drive it more consistant, with better forward bit I don't see any issue with that...

has anyone boiled there chassis to to try and gain more flex? I have done this in the past with arms...

Just curious, how long ago was it when you boiled arms? I'm curious only because I remember guys talking about this in the late 80's. I just can't see today's materials holding up well after a boiling, not to mention have more flex...

I'm pretty sure the b4.1 chassis has plenty of flex. Maybe you should try one of my Chassis's.

Associated at one point made a complete ball diff kit for the SC10 that could also be used on a T4. I bought one when I changed my RTR T4.1 to a full blown T4.1, Cannot seem to locate it now, but it came with everything you needed and was fairly cheap.

Never mind I read it wrong, I thought the poster wanted to go from gear to ball diff. Sorry

Hello I've been out of 1/10 th scale electric for a long time and decided to break out the b4 for a while. I need some help with buying a brushless system and the difference between stock and mod.... The last time I raced this thing all I had was a trinity 27 turn and a 3300 reedy packs...so all help will be appreciated

At this point, I'm only familiar with mod. A 5700kv motor is about all you will need for a B4. You will find the front end trying to climb into the sky if you aren't judicious with the throttle. I've got a Castle Mamba Max Pro. Love it. Sensored motors are a bit smoother on the bottom end. Tekin and LRP seem to be pretty popular brands. Battery tech has come a huge way too. Check out Gens Ace lipo's. They are dirt cheap and I have had great success with them.

Ok yeah I wanna run both and just not sure what to get as far as stock and mod ......as far as batteries are concerned I've found promatch to be pretty cheap to and they are getting great comments.....plus I know someone that was sponsored with them

Stock is going to be a 17.5 turn motor just about anywhere you go, you'll also have to find out if they run "boosted" or no timing. Mod is normally 7.5-10.5, it's all up to you.

Is this pretty much the standard grit people are using to sand the rings when running the ceramic balls? I haven't run ceramics in a LOOONG time. With carbide's I normally sand with 400 then 600.