RC10B4.1 FT/WC
09-12-2011, 06:43 AM
#5822
If you're coming up to RCE (my home track) for the JC race you'll want Blue Bar Codes. Golds work well when the track is new, but by the time of the race Blues will probably be your best bet. We generally don't run sauce on the JC tires, usually just motor spray if anything.
09-12-2011, 08:23 AM
#5825
I only use the steel parts for my diff .
Will last as long as a the out-drives if you build it right & set your slipper correctly .
No sanding needed too....
Known for years ceramic parts only
offer the same performance & durability at best ....
Will last as long as a the out-drives if you build it right & set your slipper correctly .
No sanding needed too....
Known for years ceramic parts only
offer the same performance & durability at best ....
09-12-2011, 09:50 AM
#5826
A couple of guys have been trying them with great success, with the molded inserts in the back and standard up front.
I have to agree with this, when I built my last B4 kit a few weeks ago I got lazy and used the stock parts, to my surprise it's still almost perfect with 4 race days on it running a 7.5. It's really all about getting it built correctly and setting the slipper to where it's safe for the diff.
I have to agree with this, when I built my last B4 kit a few weeks ago I got lazy and used the stock parts, to my surprise it's still almost perfect with 4 race days on it running a 7.5. It's really all about getting it built correctly and setting the slipper to where it's safe for the diff.
09-12-2011, 10:41 AM
#5827
Tech Regular
iTrader: (6)
A couple of guys have been trying them with great success, with the molded inserts in the back and standard up front.
I have to agree with this, when I built my last B4 kit a few weeks ago I got lazy and used the stock parts, to my surprise it's still almost perfect with 4 race days on it running a 7.5. It's really all about getting it built correctly and setting the slipper to where it's safe for the diff.
I have to agree with this, when I built my last B4 kit a few weeks ago I got lazy and used the stock parts, to my surprise it's still almost perfect with 4 race days on it running a 7.5. It's really all about getting it built correctly and setting the slipper to where it's safe for the diff.
09-12-2011, 10:50 AM
#5828
Super Moderator
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thank you
you not so much
Buckaroo, thank you too.
09-12-2011, 12:04 PM
#5829
A 7.5 is definitely a LOT in a 2wd, you have to know how to handle it to make full use of it, but it's not big deal to just turn your throttle EPA down to 80-90% to make it feel more like an 8.5 while it's in your 2wd, I do it all the time if traction is low or I'm on a smaller track.
09-12-2011, 12:09 PM
#5830
Racer
I would use ceramic if it perform better , it does not and its durability is highly over rated ....
Carbide balls grip the rings the best , no slip ...
Bonus !!!
Because the carbide grips better ?
You can run the diff looser than a ceramic .
Carbide=MORE TRACTION .....
Sorry to disappoint you again ....
I would use ceramic if it perform better , it does not and its durability is highly over rated ....
Carbide balls grip the rings the best , no slip ...
Bonus !!!
Because the carbide grips better ?
You can run the diff looser than a ceramic .
Carbide=MORE TRACTION .....
Sorry to disappoint you again ....
Last edited by Wild Cherry; 09-12-2011 at 12:32 PM.
09-12-2011, 12:27 PM
#5831
Just curious, how long ago was it when you boiled arms? I'm curious only because I remember guys talking about this in the late 80's. I just can't see today's materials holding up well after a boiling, not to mention have more flex...
I'm pretty sure the b4.1 chassis has plenty of flex. Maybe you should try one of my Chassis's.
I'm pretty sure the b4.1 chassis has plenty of flex. Maybe you should try one of my Chassis's.
09-12-2011, 01:11 PM
#5832
I bet your fun at parties. 
Racer
I would use ceramic if it perform better , it does not and its durability is highly over rated ....
Carbide balls grip the rings the best , no slip ...
Bonus !!!
Because the carbide grips better ?
You can run the diff looser than a ceramic .
Carbide=MORE TRACTION .....
Sorry to disappoint you again ....
I would use ceramic if it perform better , it does not and its durability is highly over rated ....
Carbide balls grip the rings the best , no slip ...
Bonus !!!
Because the carbide grips better ?
You can run the diff looser than a ceramic .
Carbide=MORE TRACTION .....
Sorry to disappoint you again ....
09-12-2011, 01:14 PM
#5833
Racer
I would use ceramic if it perform better , it does not and its durability is highly over rated ....
Carbide balls grip the rings the best , no slip ...
Bonus !!!
Because the carbide grips better ?
You can run the diff looser than a ceramic .
Carbide=MORE TRACTION .....
Sorry to disappoint you again ....
I would use ceramic if it perform better , it does not and its durability is highly over rated ....
Carbide balls grip the rings the best , no slip ...
Bonus !!!
Because the carbide grips better ?
You can run the diff looser than a ceramic .
Carbide=MORE TRACTION .....
Sorry to disappoint you again ....
I only use what the pros use. Ask Cav what he uses in his diff...
he will say ceramics
09-12-2011, 02:26 PM
#5834
I want to stress though, that it IS car specific. I couldn't run ceramics in my 22, or my Kyosho.. because they would slip unless you completely locked the diff down, and it would drive like crap, and the diff ended up feeling horrible. I had to use carbides in those cars. But in the b4... they work great. And since I like to run a slightly tighter diff anyway, and prefer their durability, it's a win win.
That doesn't mean that a quality set of carbides WONT work... they will certainly work just as well, only coming up slightly short in the durability department (and maybe only 95% as smooth). If you want to run a medium or loosely set diff, George is right, don't use the ceramics, use the carbides.
That doesn't mean that a quality set of carbides WONT work... they will certainly work just as well, only coming up slightly short in the durability department (and maybe only 95% as smooth). If you want to run a medium or loosely set diff, George is right, don't use the ceramics, use the carbides.
09-12-2011, 03:22 PM
#5835
I only use what pro's use too , carbide O-yeah !
I have not yet found one person to make a ceramic diff perform or out last any better than a carbide ....
BTW
Scott Brown on the same team too !
He does not use ceramic...
JMuck , I'm not trying to make friends ...
I'm just trying to tell it it as it is , the truth ....