RC10B4.1 FT/WC
08-09-2011 | 01:28 PM
#4906
You are over thinking this. Just thread on all the way then even them out with calipers. All the way down is the standard but tolerances of parts vary.
08-09-2011 | 01:31 PM
#4907
Ok so I am just trying to learn so please forgive any ignorance.
Why does it matter so much on travel inside the shock that we use limiters but it doesn't matter how long the rod ends are on the outside of the shock? I must just misunderstand how this works? I thought the limiters to prevent how far the shock can travel? So why allow the a-arms to travel that far anyway by having longer rod lengths?
Why does it matter so much on travel inside the shock that we use limiters but it doesn't matter how long the rod ends are on the outside of the shock? I must just misunderstand how this works? I thought the limiters to prevent how far the shock can travel? So why allow the a-arms to travel that far anyway by having longer rod lengths?
swiped from http://users.telenet.be/elvo/
Internal Travel Limiters / Droop / Downtravel
More
(less droop/downtravel)
The car changes direction faster, and corners flatter. It feels generally more responsive.
Adding a lot of travel limiters is only advisable on smooth tracks.
Less
(more droop/downtravel)
Less internal shock spacers give better handling on bumpy tracks, and more and more consistent traction on difficult tracks.
The car also land better after jumps.
The end with the least downtravel will feel the most stable, and the most direct. But try to keep a balance (front and rear end droop about the same), especially on low-grip tracks.
Adding more internal travel limiters is a very effective way of reducing traction rolls, if not the most effective way.
08-09-2011 | 01:46 PM
#4909
Tech Regular
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 272
From: Sacramento,CA USA
Likes +1
Limiters or turns of the shock end are both ways of adjusting the down travel of the shock. The total length does effect handling. Limiters are set when you build the shock. Turning the shock end is a quick and easy way of "adding or subtracting" a limiter without tearing the shock down.
swiped from http://users.telenet.be/elvo/
Internal Travel Limiters / Droop / Downtravel
More
(less droop/downtravel)
The car changes direction faster, and corners flatter. It feels generally more responsive.
Adding a lot of travel limiters is only advisable on smooth tracks.
Less
(more droop/downtravel)
Less internal shock spacers give better handling on bumpy tracks, and more and more consistent traction on difficult tracks.
The car also land better after jumps.
The end with the least downtravel will feel the most stable, and the most direct. But try to keep a balance (front and rear end droop about the same), especially on low-grip tracks.
Adding more internal travel limiters is a very effective way of reducing traction rolls, if not the most effective way.
swiped from http://users.telenet.be/elvo/
Internal Travel Limiters / Droop / Downtravel
More
(less droop/downtravel)
The car changes direction faster, and corners flatter. It feels generally more responsive.
Adding a lot of travel limiters is only advisable on smooth tracks.
Less
(more droop/downtravel)
Less internal shock spacers give better handling on bumpy tracks, and more and more consistent traction on difficult tracks.
The car also land better after jumps.
The end with the least downtravel will feel the most stable, and the most direct. But try to keep a balance (front and rear end droop about the same), especially on low-grip tracks.
Adding more internal travel limiters is a very effective way of reducing traction rolls, if not the most effective way.
08-09-2011 | 02:09 PM
#4910
Limiters or turns of the shock end are both ways of adjusting the down travel of the shock. The total length does effect handling. Limiters are set when you build the shock. Turning the shock end is a quick and easy way of "adding or subtracting" a limiter without tearing the shock down.
swiped from http://users.telenet.be/elvo/
Internal Travel Limiters / Droop / Downtravel
More
(less droop/downtravel)
The car changes direction faster, and corners flatter. It feels generally more responsive.
Adding a lot of travel limiters is only advisable on smooth tracks.
Less
(more droop/downtravel)
Less internal shock spacers give better handling on bumpy tracks, and more and more consistent traction on difficult tracks.
The car also land better after jumps.
The end with the least downtravel will feel the most stable, and the most direct. But try to keep a balance (front and rear end droop about the same), especially on low-grip tracks.
Adding more internal travel limiters is a very effective way of reducing traction rolls, if not the most effective way.
swiped from http://users.telenet.be/elvo/
Internal Travel Limiters / Droop / Downtravel
More
(less droop/downtravel)
The car changes direction faster, and corners flatter. It feels generally more responsive.
Adding a lot of travel limiters is only advisable on smooth tracks.
Less
(more droop/downtravel)
Less internal shock spacers give better handling on bumpy tracks, and more and more consistent traction on difficult tracks.
The car also land better after jumps.
The end with the least downtravel will feel the most stable, and the most direct. But try to keep a balance (front and rear end droop about the same), especially on low-grip tracks.
Adding more internal travel limiters is a very effective way of reducing traction rolls, if not the most effective way.
08-09-2011 | 10:42 PM
#4916
oh man, used epoxy and made braces with screws coming through and nuts on the other end, withen a lap it was 2 cars lol
I will try my aka thin tire glue, would you guys say fiberglass tape along with thin tire glue and what braces/? They were long braces but the epoxy broke so quick, i let it dry clamped for a day. UGHH i feel like a jerk changing my stuff between chassis.
I will try my aka thin tire glue, would you guys say fiberglass tape along with thin tire glue and what braces/? They were long braces but the epoxy broke so quick, i let it dry clamped for a day. UGHH i feel like a jerk changing my stuff between chassis.
08-09-2011 | 11:22 PM
#4917
oh man, used epoxy and made braces with screws coming through and nuts on the other end, withen a lap it was 2 cars lol
I will try my aka thin tire glue, would you guys say fiberglass tape along with thin tire glue and what braces/? They were long braces but the epoxy broke so quick, i let it dry clamped for a day. UGHH i feel like a jerk changing my stuff between chassis.
I will try my aka thin tire glue, would you guys say fiberglass tape along with thin tire glue and what braces/? They were long braces but the epoxy broke so quick, i let it dry clamped for a day. UGHH i feel like a jerk changing my stuff between chassis.
08-09-2011 | 11:59 PM
#4920
Tech Legend
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 22,595
From: TRCR Modified Driver
We took a B-4.8 and did our best to break the thing ...
Moons shots , pole shots , casing jumps, ect ...
Finally broke it by going full speed down the straight into the cinder block wall...
We just glue her right back together with tire glue again .
Moons shots , pole shots , casing jumps, ect ...
Finally broke it by going full speed down the straight into the cinder block wall...
We just glue her right back together with tire glue again .