If someone wants to buy a whole kit for the diff of their 4.1, it is made by MIP and it is an "SC10" ball diff kit: MIP 9130 Ball Diff Kit SC10.

I just took a look at the ASC9853 that Matt posted...I'd rather have that one myself beings the A team sells it and all. Only difference is the MIP one has a black diff gear.

The fronts are actually .80" and the rears are 1.02"

I was referring to the bodies...but yes, those are the shaft sizes.

Oops, misread that. On a side note. Here's my freshly painted Finnisher. Not a fan of most cab forward designs, but this thing is pretty sweet.

Use the for sale forum for this type of post.

Thank you

Search McMaster.com for part number 28685A47. I think this would be perfect for making the cut on a T4 chassis. You could even do an angled cut pointed to the front to make for more glue area. You would just mount the bit in a mill or even a drill press then cut away. I would probably mount the chassis to a piece of wood though so it would stay flat.

http://www.slide.com/r/gOHRybBa3j81_...t_embedded_url

is how i went about it.

So much work to cut a straight line ....


I cut one with a powered miter saw , achieve a perfect cut real easy like....

Took me less than one minute to cut , had it all glued together & ready to run in 5 minutes ....

Sure you did..

What kind of blade did you use?

You don't believe ?


A miter saw is probably the perfect tool for the job , no clamps , less than 1 minute to cut & no need to even sand much at all ...

Not sure which blade , all the printing on the
blade is worn off, blade design is for cutting molding ....

Use a fine tooth blade to get the best cut. Table saw works great.

The part I don't believe.

How long do you think tire glue takes to dry ?

Also use accelerator and yes less than 5 min to glue . Not anymore difficult to glue than a tire ...