22LikesTeam Durango DEX410 4WD 1/10 Off-Road Buggy Thread
05-22-2014, 10:35 AM
05-22-2014, 11:16 AM
Bman and Incubus, have you guys done anything to combat broken arm syndrome? Obviously don't crash….(I know I need more practice). I wanted to get your input.
I think the 2 way slipper design is great and a nice improvement over the standard slipper. I've seen a few situations with long rhythm sections where I think a center diff would be better. I just wish it was a little easier to convert between the two. I like the slipper design as it's very low rotating mass. There's a growing class of 13.5 4 wheeler at my local track and I think going with this and a shorty pack would be wicked. I wonder about the balance though…..I plan to get some scales soon so I can see how it all works out.
Thanks!
I think the 2 way slipper design is great and a nice improvement over the standard slipper. I've seen a few situations with long rhythm sections where I think a center diff would be better. I just wish it was a little easier to convert between the two. I like the slipper design as it's very low rotating mass. There's a growing class of 13.5 4 wheeler at my local track and I think going with this and a shorty pack would be wicked. I wonder about the balance though…..I plan to get some scales soon so I can see how it all works out.
Thanks!
05-22-2014, 11:46 AM
I found the culprit for snapping from arms to be the set screw that threads into the caster blocks. I started using the B Type arms that use a securing screw like Associated to keep the pin from falling out and have not snapped an arm since. Perhaps that set screw places too much pressure on the ends of the pin and arms and when you hit something it's just what it needed to push it over the edge.
05-22-2014, 11:48 AM
Bman and Incubus, have you guys done anything to combat broken arm syndrome? Obviously don't crash….(I know I need more practice). I wanted to get your input.
I think the 2 way slipper design is great and a nice improvement over the standard slipper. I've seen a few situations with long rhythm sections where I think a center diff would be better. I just wish it was a little easier to convert between the two. I like the slipper design as it's very low rotating mass. There's a growing class of 13.5 4 wheeler at my local track and I think going with this and a shorty pack would be wicked. I wonder about the balance though…..I plan to get some scales soon so I can see how it all works out.
Thanks!
I think the 2 way slipper design is great and a nice improvement over the standard slipper. I've seen a few situations with long rhythm sections where I think a center diff would be better. I just wish it was a little easier to convert between the two. I like the slipper design as it's very low rotating mass. There's a growing class of 13.5 4 wheeler at my local track and I think going with this and a shorty pack would be wicked. I wonder about the balance though…..I plan to get some scales soon so I can see how it all works out.
Thanks!
The v3 arms seem fine. The v4 I broke in practice first time out. I don't like the design. If you run the v3 style with HD pins you should be fine.
05-22-2014, 11:52 AM
Tech Addict
iTrader: (25)
05-22-2014, 12:14 PM
I broke all of my V3 arms and didn't finish a single race or qualifier. I'm running the Tresrey TiNi hinge pins. They seem great as they didn't seem to get bent in any of these crashes. I expect Amain to deliver my B type arms today.
…..Granted we have a bit of a crazy design with a crossover that has no net, this same Xover leads to cartwheels onto the straightaway or landing on the cars below. Did I mention the double double after the straight? phew. Lots of broken cars on Sunday.
My local hobby shop stopped carrying Durango parts which is part of why I'm leaning towards the D413. They have said they will carry parts for it. I'd love to see Durango do something even more robust with their next design. Perhaps the D413 arms will fit my durango
…..Granted we have a bit of a crazy design with a crossover that has no net, this same Xover leads to cartwheels onto the straightaway or landing on the cars below. Did I mention the double double after the straight? phew. Lots of broken cars on Sunday.
My local hobby shop stopped carrying Durango parts which is part of why I'm leaning towards the D413. They have said they will carry parts for it. I'd love to see Durango do something even more robust with their next design. Perhaps the D413 arms will fit my durango
05-22-2014, 01:02 PM
Realistically, the reason the 410 seems brittle is because of it's weight. If there was a proper CF Chassis option with accompanying CF side plates, the car would be lighter and therefore not as hard on components when crashing. Also, the precision fit of the components on Durango vehicles means there's no give as compared to some others which, when combined with the load = Snap!
05-22-2014, 10:18 PM
Does anyone know if the ProLine "Stabilizer" Wing fits ok on the DEX410?
05-22-2014, 11:15 PM
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (13)
05-23-2014, 12:30 AM
As I rebuild my car and realize I've broken another front shock tower (carbon fibre cuts hurt!) as well as all the arms (trying not to be frustrated, I know it's my fault for crashing but I'll post a video of the track and you'll see what's up…) I thought perhaps using delrin pivot balls for the suspension would help give the arms a little bit of give to prevent snapping them. I think I will try and find some to try this out. I'm also now using the Type B arms with the set screw. I've noticed the Tresrey Titanium Nitride pins are a little bit too long for the Type B setup so probably best to use the pins that come with the arms. Anyone using anything else?
I think I have most of the light options although I am running the rear weight under the gear box (30g). I'm running Titanium turnbuckles, Titanium Ball Studs, and the Tresrey Pins…Seems like this leaves the Servo or going to shorty packs. Did I miss any other ideas?
I think I have most of the light options although I am running the rear weight under the gear box (30g). I'm running Titanium turnbuckles, Titanium Ball Studs, and the Tresrey Pins…Seems like this leaves the Servo or going to shorty packs. Did I miss any other ideas?
05-23-2014, 04:00 AM
Apart from the Tekin RS and Speed Passion Reventon R does anyone else know of any 8.5T or lower capable small Sensored ESC's?
05-23-2014, 04:24 AM
05-23-2014, 04:31 AM
As I rebuild my car and realize I've broken another front shock tower (carbon fibre cuts hurt!) as well as all the arms (trying not to be frustrated, I know it's my fault for crashing but I'll post a video of the track and you'll see what's up…) I thought perhaps using delrin pivot balls for the suspension would help give the arms a little bit of give to prevent snapping them. I think I will try and find some to try this out. I'm also now using the Type B arms with the set screw. I've noticed the Tresrey Titanium Nitride pins are a little bit too long for the Type B setup so probably best to use the pins that come with the arms. Anyone using anything else?
I think I have most of the light options although I am running the rear weight under the gear box (30g). I'm running Titanium turnbuckles, Titanium Ball Studs, and the Tresrey Pins…Seems like this leaves the Servo or going to shorty packs. Did I miss any other ideas?
I think I have most of the light options although I am running the rear weight under the gear box (30g). I'm running Titanium turnbuckles, Titanium Ball Studs, and the Tresrey Pins…Seems like this leaves the Servo or going to shorty packs. Did I miss any other ideas?
When the front arm breaks, what location does it happen? Inside, outside? The Tresrey pins look to be stock TD pins but coated, if these are the ones your referring to. I would get the HD pins or McMaster drill blanks. Much stronger.
05-23-2014, 05:13 AM
I got my center diff conversion out on the track for the first time last night. HOLY COW! 
What a difference. The car was super aggressive. It accelerated harder, it braked harder, it jumped better, and the back end didn't want to step out at all. It was better in almost every way... The only problem? It pushed pretty hard. That was completely expected, though. Moving the batteries 90* takes weight from the front and puts it on the rear, and I didn't change my spring rates to match.
I am absolutely convinced now. Center diffs are the way to go!
What a difference. The car was super aggressive. It accelerated harder, it braked harder, it jumped better, and the back end didn't want to step out at all. It was better in almost every way... The only problem? It pushed pretty hard. That was completely expected, though. Moving the batteries 90* takes weight from the front and puts it on the rear, and I didn't change my spring rates to match. I am absolutely convinced now. Center diffs are the way to go!
05-23-2014, 05:21 AM
I got my center diff conversion out on the track for the first time last night. HOLY COW! What a difference. The car was super aggressive. It accelerated harder, it braked harder, it jumped better, and the back end didn't want to step out at all. It was better in almost every way... The only problem? It pushed pretty hard. That was completely expected, though. Moving the batteries 90* takes weight from the front and puts it on the rear, and I didn't change my spring rates to match.
I am absolutely convinced now. Center diffs are the way to go!
What a difference. The car was super aggressive. It accelerated harder, it braked harder, it jumped better, and the back end didn't want to step out at all. It was better in almost every way... The only problem? It pushed pretty hard. That was completely expected, though. Moving the batteries 90* takes weight from the front and puts it on the rear, and I didn't change my spring rates to match. I am absolutely convinced now. Center diffs are the way to go!
what weight oil in the center?
