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Team Durango DEX410 4WD 1/10 Off-Road Buggy Thread

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Team Durango DEX410 4WD 1/10 Off-Road Buggy Thread

Old 05-23-2014, 05:50 PM
  #15946  
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I have a gut feeling the Team C diff might go in with little to no elbow grease. If so, that's the center diff I'll likely try.
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Old 05-23-2014, 05:54 PM
  #15947  
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@incubus: Did you use actual 3mm and 2.5mm stock or Imperial equivalents? like 1/8th inch etc. For some reason I had a hard time finding the metric stuff on the Mcmaster site. Also, what alloy did you choose? Seems they have several kinds of tool steel here.

Thanks for all your helps as always! I have several of the outer pins now as Durango seems to be including the pins with each pair of Type B arms.

Last edited by 13Maschine; 05-23-2014 at 08:29 PM.
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Old 05-23-2014, 05:55 PM
  #15948  
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Perhaps we should draw up the CAD files for the shock towers and have Dragon plate or some other good Carbon fibre CNC shop to make enough for all of us. I would take 3 of them if they were similar in price to the stock. I'd probably want them to be 5mm too but we could probably come up with a good option that works for all.
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Old 05-23-2014, 08:44 PM
  #15949  
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you want 91595A146 and 91595A143, they come 10 to a pack, enough for 5 cars, or just buy the longer ones and trim them to fit for front and rear.
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Old 05-23-2014, 09:59 PM
  #15950  
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Originally Posted by ridgeracer
After breaking two carbon front Towers we started using alloy ones instead. Never broke or bent a front Tower in over 18 months.
(Cutting of the Outer hole on both sides)
I actually have a set of the Alum towers….unfortunately USPS has lost them and I am not sure if I will ever get them back. Same with a Speed Passion motor I ordered. Bleh. Don't use USPS!

I'll have to try them out. I figured that would be a good option I just like to compare notes with the group here
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Old 05-23-2014, 09:59 PM
  #15951  
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Raise you hand if you are running the Machine cut diff gears? Does the lower mass help with acceleration? Worth it?
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Old 05-23-2014, 10:11 PM
  #15952  
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Originally Posted by 13Maschine
Perhaps we should draw up the CAD files for the shock towers and have Dragon plate or some other good Carbon fibre CNC shop to make enough for all of us. I would take 3 of them if they were similar in price to the stock. I'd probably want them to be 5mm too but we could probably come up with a good option that works for all.
I know Bezerk RC, in Australia, did some carbon towers with more material around the shock mounting locations https://www.facebook.com/BezerkRc/ph...levant_count=1
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Old 05-23-2014, 10:47 PM
  #15953  
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This site is going down the crapper with all the restrictions on selling your home made stuff. GRrrrr!

Just have 2 stands left and some mod closes my thread because they want me to pay money in order to sell my stuff here. These policies are stupid because there are people selling unopened kits and New, never run vehicles and accessories, so in theory they should close all threads selling new stuff.

If anyone is interested PM me because come monday they're going on ebay.



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Old 05-24-2014, 12:24 AM
  #15954  
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I think adding updated hinge pins either HD or the McMaster route, plus delrin pivot balls and switching to plastic shims all around will give me a good amount of give in the event of a crash or a tumble. I hope this helps keep me from the dreaded DNF Seems like the Type B arms with the shims and the retaining screw will also allow for additional give over the V3 setup.

Thanks to all for their input. Always appreciated.

I am already starting to put together my shorty pack setup ideas. I figure I can use the black Chassis stand offs from the front of the car and a strap across the battery. Did someone say the V4 chassis seemed to have holes pre drilled? my V3 chassis doesn't…I want to be able to easily switch between saddles and shorty for now. Maybe I will like the shorty setup so much I'll only run that….
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Old 05-24-2014, 12:35 AM
  #15955  
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Originally Posted by 13Maschine
I think adding updated hinge pins either HD or the McMaster route, plus delrin pivot balls and switching to plastic shims all around will give me a good amount of give in the event of a crash or a tumble. I hope this helps keep me from the dreaded DNF Seems like the Type B arms with the shims and the retaining screw will also allow for additional give over the V3 setup.

Thanks to all for their input. Always appreciated.

I am already starting to put together my shorty pack setup ideas. I figure I can use the black Chassis stand offs from the front of the car and a strap across the battery. Did someone say the V4 chassis seemed to have holes pre drilled? my V3 chassis doesn't…I want to be able to easily switch between saddles and shorty for now. Maybe I will like the shorty setup so much I'll only run that….
The v4 doesn't come with holes in the chassis, the holes were for the center battery stops prior to LiPos.
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Old 05-24-2014, 05:38 AM
  #15956  
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Originally Posted by ekt
I know Bezerk RC, in Australia, did some carbon towers with more material around the shock mounting locations https://www.facebook.com/BezerkRc/ph...levant_count=1
I'd be interested in a set of these if somebody else in the U.S. was too. Are they still available?
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Old 05-25-2014, 04:46 PM
  #15957  
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Does anyone know what chassis weights he's using here in this pic?


Originally Posted by ekt
A single short pack will fit.
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Old 05-25-2014, 09:42 PM
  #15958  
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custom milled brass
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Old 05-26-2014, 03:44 AM
  #15959  
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Whats the best direct fitting aluminium servo horns you can buy for the dex410v3. Im aware the Losi SCTE fit with some spacing. How about the Losi TLR22 servo horn? (TLR1557)

Or better yet if someone has one they know fit with minimal modification and spacing?
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Old 05-26-2014, 08:10 AM
  #15960  
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I think the plain jane dynamite ones will work, but I hear the 22 one is popular.
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