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Team Durango DEX410 4WD 1/10 Off-Road Buggy Thread

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Team Durango DEX410 4WD 1/10 Off-Road Buggy Thread

Old 07-25-2010, 08:51 PM
  #916  
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FYI - the Thunder Power 45C saddle packs do not fit the DEX410. I have to send mine back to amainhobbies and switch for the ProTek set. Oh well, it will save me $20.

I should have checked the height before I ordered. The Thunder Powers are 28mm high and the Durango max's at 25mm.
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Old 07-25-2010, 10:20 PM
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Originally Posted by aradaiel
Any of you guys break the very front hingepin holder? I've destroyed 2 and another racer destroyed one by bumping a PVC pipe.

My rear diff spur also lost 3 teeth somehow, it just started clicking so I took it apart and found this.

I got a Tie-rod out of the box with no threads also.

This car is frustrating me pretty bad. I've only got 11 laps at a small indoor track. I've only put about 1700 MAH through the battery.
Replace the suspension mounts with the alu upgrades, and you'll never break another.

Try shimming the diff in the housing so there is very little backlash between the ring gear and bevel gear. Not too tight, and not too loose. Even then, it might happen again, until you replace the kit bearings with something of better quality. I lost 1 gear before properly shimming, and 1 more after that, until I replaced the kit bearings with Avid. No more ring gear problems, since.

Properly adjusting the slipper is key to reducing broken drive pins and also reduces the chance of breaking the ring gears.

This car requires a steep learning curve, so don't give up on it. Check and double check. Strip it down a few times and inspect everything. Learn what needs more attention, and what is bullet proof. It's not perfect, ...no car is, ...but it's damn close!
Good racing!
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Old 07-25-2010, 10:41 PM
  #918  
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the front alum. mount is backordered everywhere
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Old 07-25-2010, 11:03 PM
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Originally Posted by Trevor Williams
the front alum. mount is backordered everywhere
Yep. Be patient, it's more than worth it.
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Old 07-26-2010, 06:37 AM
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Originally Posted by aradaiel
Any of you guys break the very front hingepin holder? I've destroyed 2 and another racer destroyed one by bumping a PVC pipe.

My rear diff spur also lost 3 teeth somehow, it just started clicking so I took it apart and found this.

I got a Tie-rod out of the box with no threads also.

This car is frustrating me pretty bad. I've only got 11 laps at a small indoor track. I've only put about 1700 MAH through the battery.
a turnbuckle with no threads now that would really upset me hmmmm and those diff gears stripping now there had to be something done for that to happen u would notice that perdy quick,now the front hinge pin holder sounds like a weak spot so far wow!!! i guess i better order some parts thats for sure if i keep hearing these night mares
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Old 07-26-2010, 08:56 AM
  #921  
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John..Colton did'nt break once last year did he? We just need the front outer alum. hingepin holder and were good to go.

as far as servicing the diffs.............piece of cake, now if they were ball diffs, I would be like yeah im very slow at this.........but Im a gascar racer, so that's all I work with are gear diffs, working on these is no different than a 1/8 buggy.
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Old 07-26-2010, 09:18 AM
  #922  
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Originally Posted by Trevor Williams
John..Colton did'nt break once last year did he? We just need the front outer alum. hingepin holder and were good to go.

as far as servicing the diffs.............piece of cake, now if they were ball diffs, I would be like yeah im very slow at this.........but Im a gascar racer, so that's all I work with are gear diffs, working on these is no different than a 1/8 buggy.
yeah trev i was texting colton and and thinks it coulda been bas shimming maybe but never had a problem and as far as the suspension holder in the front are we talking on the outer front or both? the inner front also? i was thinking about doing the front inner and outter and same with the rear inner and outter.. colton also says he uses the 4mm toe block,so ima start with that....
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Old 07-26-2010, 09:21 AM
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Originally Posted by Bman's 3XNT
Have any of you guys played around with the rear shims on the hub and arms? What would have a greater effect on handling. the shims on the inner hinge pin or hub? I know changing the shims on the hub change wheelbase and rear traction, and I am assuming the shims on the inner hinge pin will do the same. Am I wrong on this? Or is the inner just for wheelbase and not for traction? Thanks........
Anybody?
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Old 07-26-2010, 09:44 AM
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Originally Posted by Bman's 3XNT
Anybody?
shim on the arms aka hinge pins to move them foward or back does effect handling if you move them foward usually would give you more rear bite shortening the length if you move them back u would be less stable in the rear ,but the car would turn better,as far as wheels base anytime you widen the rear the more stable the car would be but also not near as responsive hope this makes since..
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Old 07-26-2010, 10:43 AM
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Hey Trevor.... Can you bring your 410R to the track tomorrow night if you're racing?
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Old 07-26-2010, 10:49 AM
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Zach, sure thing man.......of course Im racing

ok....stupid question of the day:

what are the flanged/tubular pieces left on parts tree 310039? they are not used I assume?
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Old 07-26-2010, 11:29 AM
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Originally Posted by Trevor Williams
what are the flanged/tubular pieces left on parts tree 310039? they are not used I assume?
Flux Capacitor housing. It allows the Durango to travel through time so you can go back to 1989 and school those JRx2s and RC10s.
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Old 07-26-2010, 11:30 AM
  #928  
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lmfao.......c'mon man
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Old 07-26-2010, 11:33 AM
  #929  
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Originally Posted by Trevor Williams
Zach, sure thing man.......of course Im racing

ok....stupid question of the day:

what are the flanged/tubular pieces left on parts tree 310039? they are not used I assume?
you put them on the outdrives if you run the boots.
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Old 07-26-2010, 01:27 PM
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ty sir......
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