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Team Durango DEX410 4WD 1/10 Off-Road Buggy Thread

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Team Durango DEX410 4WD 1/10 Off-Road Buggy Thread

Old 01-19-2014, 09:26 PM
  #15166  
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Default 12mm hex conversion for durango 4 wheeler

A little project we are doing pictured is a tlr22 rear rim


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Old 01-19-2014, 10:36 PM
  #15167  
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Thumbs up 4 pole motor

I run a pro 4 4600 in mine. no drive train issues at all. motor temps are of no concern. never even taken a temp reading. The only problem is fitting an rx8 in that little space..
pinions
Robinson racing makes 48 pitch with 5mm shafts. all the sizes u need.

Benifets of running this motor
short run ups on jumps are of no concern at all
motor and esc temp
the motor has the control of a 10.5 and the speed of a 6.5.

When i get the v4 im gonna try a pro 2 motor with a gen 2 rx8.

down fall of running this motor
there is a bit of add weight to the car which is concern for some but havent found it to be an issue for me.
fitting the rx8.
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Old 01-19-2014, 10:44 PM
  #15168  
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Originally Posted by mbtoolmaker35
A little project we are doing pictured is a tlr22 rear rim


I use B4 clamping hexes on mine works fine.
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Old 01-19-2014, 11:00 PM
  #15169  
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Any California guys wanna head out to OCRC tomorrow? I'm planning to use my holiday wisely at the track Would be cool to have a Durango corner! PM me if you are headed out.

Thanks!
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Old 01-20-2014, 05:17 PM
  #15170  
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I am running a Castle Max Pro(the old Losi one) with a trinity D3.5, and it is running very cool. The front plate has a cooling hole so big you can almost stick your pinky in it. I had to rotate it so that hole in inboard. The problem with this motor is the shaft as the pinion screw cut is not long enough. I had to dremel a spot on the shaft for the pinion screw to fit. I am now pleased with this motor, but it is not a direct fit without mods to the shaft.
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Old 01-20-2014, 06:29 PM
  #15171  
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Originally Posted by mbtoolmaker35
A little project we are doing pictured is a tlr22 rear rim


sign me up
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Old 01-21-2014, 09:11 AM
  #15172  
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Im running a thunder power 5.5 in my 410, ive got a 18t pinion on the stock 87t spur. Im seeing temps of 160ish after a 8min main. I cant seem to find any bigger spurs and a 17t pinion dosnt mesh with the spur close enough. Any ideas?


Im running the 5.5 because we have a HUGE covered track with lots of high speed areas, and im still getting ran down by the belt wheelers running 6.5s. Slightly annoying lol Im running a novak havoc pro esc btw
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Old 01-21-2014, 09:30 AM
  #15173  
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I would check your drivetrain for binding. Theres a reason 17 won't mesh... its way too low.
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Old 01-21-2014, 09:35 AM
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Originally Posted by Barge
I would check your drivetrain for binding. Theres a reason 17 won't mesh... its way too low.
What would you recommend i run then? I will check the drivetrain for binding but im fairly certain theres none. I check things like that before each qualifier/main.
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Old 01-21-2014, 11:06 AM
  #15175  
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Do you have the new UJ's and plastic diff gears? If not start with that. Its also possible you're under geared. Try something like a 20-21t pinion and check temps after a couple minutes. I assume you're also running very little to no timing, and use boost to get the top end you need. You should also have vents in your body. If there isn't and pre made, cutting out about 1/4" of the bottom of the wind shield and most of the back to get some air flow. All this should help a lot.
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Old 01-21-2014, 11:21 AM
  #15176  
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Originally Posted by mbtoolmaker35
A little project we are doing pictured is a tlr22 rear rim


i just used a set of b4.2 12mm hex clamps works perfect and can use the same wheels off my b4.2
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Old 01-21-2014, 12:33 PM
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Originally Posted by Barge
I would check your drivetrain for binding. Theres a reason 17 won't mesh... its way too low.
A 17 on a 5.5 motor probably is not too low. I am running a 20 on 6.5 without timing or boost. It depends on the track size. I have a feeling that the havoc pro is the problem. I think it is fine for a 2wd, but not up to the task for 4wd. Also 160ish is not too hot.
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Old 01-21-2014, 01:23 PM
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Originally Posted by rcjunky1
Has anyone compared the new plastic diff internals to metal? I ran my 410 for the first time with most of the v4 parts (no dual slipper or 19* blocks) and with a sonic mach 1 8.5 it had tons of power, and with a 23t pinion didn't get close to hot, to the point I didn't temp it or worry about doing the back to back I did after bumping up, I figure around 100*F after 5mins. From other locals running them they always seem to run hot and sluggish, but this thing was a rocket and never got hot. I'm now sold on the toro ts120 speed controler now though, awesome bang for buck and available in Canada
So going to composite gears and all U-Joints have had that much of an effect?? Was there much of a weight difference?

Good news for me I have all this stuff on order and I hope it brings motor temps down cause even with a fan on my motor I avg about 180 after 5 min races, the perils of 17.5 stock class
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Old 01-21-2014, 02:03 PM
  #15179  
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I heard 7g per diff, not sure on the universals. I never ran the old stuff with the same motor set up but in the past I've ran other 410's and they've never had the same amount of rip, and I'm only running a 8.5 with almost no esc voodoo running around 100* and it was a missile, its at least a half ounce reduction in rotating mass which is a lot.
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Old 01-21-2014, 02:16 PM
  #15180  
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Originally Posted by rcjunky1
I heard 7g per diff, not sure on the universals. I never ran the old stuff with the same motor set up but in the past I've ran other 410's and they've never had the same amount of rip, and I'm only running a 8.5 with almost no esc voodoo running around 100* and it was a missile, its at least a half ounce reduction in rotating mass which is a lot.
Awesome I also run Machined diff gears and had run half the spider gears to reduce intertia in the past sounds promising sadly the Ujoint Centre rear is on backorder.
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