9LikesLosi 1/10 TEN-SCTE ARR 4x4 Short Course Truck Thread
04-03-2012, 02:45 PM
04-03-2012, 03:04 PM
Seems to be easier to get a nice even coat, lighter, and for the wheel area doesn't grab as much as the rubbery shoe goo.
Working great so far!
04-03-2012, 03:16 PM
For my most recent body I used some aerosol DupliColor spray-on bed liner (http://www.duplicolor.com/products/truckBedCoating/) instead of shoe-goo in those key areas, and where the wheels rub the color off. Spray on before you remove your window masks, then respray over the liner with white (or whatever color you back with) if you want it to look pretty on the inside.
Seems to be easier to get a nice even coat, lighter, and for the wheel area doesn't grab as much as the rubbery shoe goo.
Working great so far!
Seems to be easier to get a nice even coat, lighter, and for the wheel area doesn't grab as much as the rubbery shoe goo.
Working great so far!
04-03-2012, 03:32 PM
04-03-2012, 03:37 PM
It will get easier every time you take things apart!Go slow and only take apart one area at a time(frnt diff,centr etc.)There is a screw kit out for 15 bucks that is nice to have if you lose one!!It is not that hard! You can do it !If you run into any problems feel free to ask here or P.M. me !Happy to help!!Cheers!
04-03-2012, 03:37 PM
For my most recent body I used some aerosol DupliColor spray-on bed liner (http://www.duplicolor.com/products/truckBedCoating/) instead of shoe-goo in those key areas, and where the wheels rub the color off. Spray on before you remove your window masks, then respray over the liner with white (or whatever color you back with) if you want it to look pretty on the inside.
Seems to be easier to get a nice even coat, lighter, and for the wheel area doesn't grab as much as the rubbery shoe goo.
Working great so far!
Seems to be easier to get a nice even coat, lighter, and for the wheel area doesn't grab as much as the rubbery shoe goo.
Working great so far!
04-03-2012, 03:53 PM
It will get easier every time you take things apart!Go slow and only take apart one area at a time(frnt diff,centr etc.)There is a screw kit out for 15 bucks that is nice to have if you lose one!!It is not that hard! You can do it !If you run into any problems feel free to ask here or P.M. me !Happy to help!!Cheers!
Thanks,
Greg
04-03-2012, 04:32 PM
It is .040 lexan and the holes are not precut as we know some may want to run with them in there still.
04-03-2012, 05:39 PM
04-03-2012, 05:58 PM
Tech Addict
04-03-2012, 06:04 PM
04-03-2012, 06:25 PM
04-03-2012, 06:34 PM
Tech Regular
Question for anybody.
I bougt my SCTE May last year so it has the updated diff pins. I just opened up the diff t freshen it up for the upcoming out door season (ran the stock grease)
Question: what should i be looking for in terms of wear. I don't really see much to be honest. Just want to confirm I'm not missing some minor detail that warrants replacement of the pins.
I bougt my SCTE May last year so it has the updated diff pins. I just opened up the diff t freshen it up for the upcoming out door season (ran the stock grease)
Question: what should i be looking for in terms of wear. I don't really see much to be honest. Just want to confirm I'm not missing some minor detail that warrants replacement of the pins.
04-03-2012, 06:53 PM
Well it looks like Ckhobby only accepts paypal and no credit card why i dont know so the toro 4600kv is out.
So how about the castle 3800kv 4x4 sc system is that good on a outdoor track with big jumps/big track fast layout ?
Ive had great luck with my Mamba Monster/2200kv on my 1/8 scale.
So how about the castle 3800kv 4x4 sc system is that good on a outdoor track with big jumps/big track fast layout ?
Ive had great luck with my Mamba Monster/2200kv on my 1/8 scale.
04-03-2012, 06:59 PM
APE - SCTE rearward adjustable battery tray
Hey guys,
I've been working on my SCTE parts for a year now. Like alot of you I removed a lot of weight from an lightened chassis, rear bumper, rear tower, mud guards, and went to a 540 4 pole motor. After going through all this effort I found that my truck had really sensitive steering and wanted to nose dive if I let off the power in the air. I started looking at the F/R balance of my truck and found that it was 53/47. So, I designed my own tray to move the battery and ESC rearward. The tray will allow you to mount the battery at the stock rearmost location and up to 3/4" farther back if needed. I have found that 1/2" back works great on my truck and puts the weight distribution at 49/51.
I am considering adding them to my web store, but I want to get your input before I do. The tray would cost $30 and be black anodized.
If this sounds like something you would be interested in please reply to this thread:
http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...l#post10556019
Thanks,
Chris
I've been working on my SCTE parts for a year now. Like alot of you I removed a lot of weight from an lightened chassis, rear bumper, rear tower, mud guards, and went to a 540 4 pole motor. After going through all this effort I found that my truck had really sensitive steering and wanted to nose dive if I let off the power in the air. I started looking at the F/R balance of my truck and found that it was 53/47. So, I designed my own tray to move the battery and ESC rearward. The tray will allow you to mount the battery at the stock rearmost location and up to 3/4" farther back if needed. I have found that 1/2" back works great on my truck and puts the weight distribution at 49/51.
I am considering adding them to my web store, but I want to get your input before I do. The tray would cost $30 and be black anodized.
If this sounds like something you would be interested in please reply to this thread:
http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...l#post10556019
Thanks,
Chris