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Losi 1/10 TEN-SCTE ARR 4x4 Short Course Truck Thread

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Losi 1/10 TEN-SCTE ARR 4x4 Short Course Truck Thread

Old 03-31-2012, 09:21 PM
  #31981  
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Originally Posted by jasontraci
I installed the TLR chassis and I have the TLR torque rod - where does that get installed?
It replaces the rear support. It attaches at the same place on the rear gear box and it uses the new hole further forward on the chassis.

Originally Posted by RC_Woody
So this is from goehm a while back. - so I'm assuming 5x8x2.5 which sounds about right. If I remember right though my stock ones are sealed rubber. Not sure what "Metal, Metal" means.

-Woody
Metal metal means the seals that are on the bearings. Typcial seals for a bearing are metal, teflon or rubber.

Metal sheilds spin free but don't do very good at keeping dirt out.

Rubber seals add a little resistance but do a great job of keeping dirt out.

Teflon have good spin freeness and do a pretty good job of keeping dirt out.
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Old 03-31-2012, 09:22 PM
  #31982  
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Originally Posted by spider882009
1. Does anyone on here sell the chassis protectors?

2. What all plastic besides the front and rear bumper can I shed for weight?

3. What is the recommended steering servo should I be thinking about or using?

Thank You
Chad
1=Dunno,2=Nerf bars,bottom of body posts,two ears that surround the spur on the top plate (center diff)Cut the battery tray and place ESC on chassis,drill holes in batt tray,you can cut up rec box ,but I dont!
Cut the front bumper arms off,run only lower part of rear bumper(Durango style)hmmmm. Think I am forgetting sumthin??? 3=Servo, 150 oz torque at least and 10 sec of speed.I run the spectrum 6040 and love it!
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Old 03-31-2012, 09:35 PM
  #31983  
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Anyone know the current coupon codes for amainhobbies
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Old 03-31-2012, 09:42 PM
  #31984  
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Originally Posted by Gas Rat Racin
Anyone know the current coupon codes for amainhobbies
Calpmar125
Calpmar1212 and 1225
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Old 03-31-2012, 10:10 PM
  #31985  
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Originally Posted by Panda-PR
Calpmar125
Calpmar1212 and 1225
Thanks
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Old 03-31-2012, 10:20 PM
  #31986  
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Originally Posted by Casper
It replaces the rear support. It attaches at the same place on the rear gear box and it uses the new hole further forward on the chassis.



Metal metal means the seals that are on the bearings. Typcial seals for a bearing are metal, teflon or rubber.

Metal sheilds spin free but don't do very good at keeping dirt out.

Rubber seals add a little resistance but do a great job of keeping dirt out.

Teflon have good spin freeness and do a pretty good job of keeping dirt out.
yeah I kinda figured that, but didn't know what the second "Metal" meant. unless it means the bearing itself is metal, which I didn't know there was any other kind in our hobby lol.

Good info though on what the pro/cons for the different shields are.
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Old 03-31-2012, 11:08 PM
  #31987  
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Originally Posted by RC_Woody
yeah I kinda figured that, but didn't know what the second "Metal" meant. unless it means the bearing itself is metal, which I didn't know there was any other kind in our hobby lol.

Good info though on what the pro/cons for the different shields are.
I should have covered that as well.

Some bearings like the AVID revolution bearings have one rubber seal and the other metal. The tought is the rubber out go to the outside for max dirt protection and the inside would be metal for less drag. so sometimes you will find bearings with different shields on either side.
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Old 04-01-2012, 03:05 AM
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Questions?? LOSB3556 - Centre Pin Only

Hi,

I have read this thread daily for the last year or so, and it has finally happened to me - the small pin in the centre driveshaft coupler has snapped.

I have done a search on the thread and can't find any results. Is there any suitable replacement for the pin alone without needing to buy the whole of LOSB3556 - Centre CV Driveshaft couplers?

Thanks!
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Old 04-01-2012, 03:08 AM
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Originally Posted by RC*PHREAK
i have run the 4600 and 5200 versions of the SC401. to me, the 5200 did have a bigger powerband where the 4600 had more down low. i am running the 5200 in my rig right now (my RX8 blew up), but was running the 4600 411 and felt like it was perfect for me. a buddy runs the 5200 411 and he really likes it. if you're looking for less punch down low and bigger, more usable powerband, then i think you'd like the 5200.
Thanks for the reply, could you share what pinion gear he is running with the 5200, and what kinds of temps he sees with it?
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Old 04-01-2012, 03:33 AM
  #31990  
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Originally Posted by RC*PHREAK
if you're looking for less punch down low and bigger, more usable powerband, then i think you'd like the 5200.
exactly what I been looking for. Ive actually been trying to tone down the sc411 4600 by gearing it really tall and using expo with esc adjustments, and it still has too much punch down low!
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Old 04-01-2012, 06:47 AM
  #31991  
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Default NOVAK BALISTIC 550 motor or TEKIN PRO4?

which is better and runs cooler?
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Old 04-01-2012, 07:16 AM
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Originally Posted by RC_Woody
So this is from goehm a while back. - so I'm assuming 5x8x2.5 which sounds about right. If I remember right though my stock ones are sealed rubber. Not sure what "Metal, Metal" means.

-Woody
To add on to what Casper said about what each type of seals do: When I listed a bearing as Metal/Metal, it means that the shields on both sides are metal. If I said Metal/Rubber, it means that one seal is rubber, and on the other half metal.

To put link both data points together, the idea is to have the most free spinning bearing with the least amount of maintenance. IE: if you a loading a wheel hub with bearings, the insides of each bearing are not exposed to dirt - so those are good candidate for metal sleeves (free spinning). The outsides would be, so good candidates for rubber (not as free spinning, but keep dirt out).

I really like Avid bearings because at $1 a pop, it almost makes sense to replace gritty/dirty bearings with new ones instead of cleaning them. It's a lot quicker, and really not much more expensive than spray and a bearing blaster.

Granted, there are a lot of companies that have inexpensive bearings. Avid is just the first one I was exposed to and I've had great success so haven't thought about looking further.

If I were trying to be REALLY competitive, I'd probably stick with all metal sleeved bearings, shoot any grease out of them, and replace with a lightweight oil .. and replace frequently .. or just go ceramic. However, I just try to find a happy balance.
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Old 04-01-2012, 07:23 AM
  #31993  
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Originally Posted by zonked
which is better and runs cooler?
Which is better is going to be drivers style choice. I like the idea of a motor with less torque and more hp/rpm. I like to carry as much speed as I can without traction rolling, and just don't need the extra torque down low to power out of turns. This is on a track that is maintained as well as any in the country. Very often blue groove conditions. I don't even need the punch for the tripple and the double. I go into those with a smooth throttle increase as well.

The only place I will be able to use the extra speed is on the strait. I will have to experiment around with just how fast I can go and still get the thing slowed down for turn 1. Since I have seen the electric 1/8 buggies rip by at even higher speeds than the 5200 will provide, slowing using the brakes at the end of the strait should not be an issue.

I am assuming that I will have to gear it with an 11-12 pinion. With a gear that low, there will be enough low end torque to be at the limits of usability.
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Old 04-01-2012, 08:15 AM
  #31994  
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Originally Posted by jasontraci
I installed the TLR chassis and I have the TLR torque rod - where does that get installed?
To install it you take the stock brace out, then put the smaller of the two pivot balls between the two pieces of plastic on the diff housing, if you look at the bottom of the chassis there is a counter sunk hole right next to one of the nitro mounts, put the screw threw it and the bigger of the two pivot balls at the same time. Then grab a nut driver or a pair of pliers and screw the black nut that it comes with on to the screw.
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Old 04-01-2012, 09:14 AM
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Originally Posted by RC_Woody
so the pistons come with numbers
smallest holes start at 1 and go up to 5(biggest holes)

in 1 single pack of LOSB2909 you get two of each number.
#1 x 2
#2 x 2
...
#5 x 2
So to answer your question if you need to buy 1 or two packs... answer is depends.

Box stock all 4 shocks have the #3 piston.

If you want the ability to have more than 2 shocks to have the same pistons(assuming you don't want #3 pistons) then yes you need 2 packs. Otherwise 1 pack should be good. Of course they are cheap and it never hurts to have backups. So I don't think buying 2 packs would break you either, however IMOP not needed.

If you are trying Lane's or Dunford setup then you only need 1 pack, as you only need to change out the rear pistons to #4's.

-Woody
Hey Guys, one thing of note...If you have purchased a piston pack, you should consider using the #3 pistons from that pack when putting in new pistons in the other end. That way, all of your pistons are starting off from the same time. They do wear some.

Originally Posted by eddomak
Hi,

I have read this thread daily for the last year or so, and it has finally happened to me - the small pin in the centre driveshaft coupler has snapped.

I have done a search on the thread and can't find any results. Is there any suitable replacement for the pin alone without needing to buy the whole of LOSB3556 - Centre CV Driveshaft couplers?

Thanks!
That pack gives you two pins and two couplers and two set screws, much better than having to buy a whole driveshaft which is the other option. The pins themselves are the same all over the truck with the exception of the notch for the set screw. So, if you have extra driveshaft pins or diff pins, you could try to grind a notch or use the sleeve with no setscrew but thats up to you.
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