Serpent 710
#8642
Do not care much about the bathces, everything has its trade off. Think of it this way, the later the production is, sure there will be improvement here and there but also there will be another problems as the tooling becoming older. Just like on 705 that share many parts from its predecessor. Flashing here and there.
#8643
Originally posted by InitialD
Tried it briefly. Nice handling. Must not make the diffs too loose. Turning is nicer than the front solid axle.
Unfortunately when I tried the front diff, I was using different shocks. 40 wt with 4 holes (1.2 mm holes) front and rear. Was using front yellow and rear white with 37 shore front and rear. Car handled nice. I just need to test out more with harder springs and harder tires this weekend with the same shocks.
Tried it briefly. Nice handling. Must not make the diffs too loose. Turning is nicer than the front solid axle.
Unfortunately when I tried the front diff, I was using different shocks. 40 wt with 4 holes (1.2 mm holes) front and rear. Was using front yellow and rear white with 37 shore front and rear. Car handled nice. I just need to test out more with harder springs and harder tires this weekend with the same shocks.
I guess I'll stick with the one way for now.
The tracks I go to are fast, high traction tracks.
I was thinking of getting the front ball diff in case I go to a different track.
#8645
Originally posted by Pyramid
Do not care much about the bathces, everything has its trade off. Think of it this way, the later the production is, sure there will be improvement here and there but also there will be another problems as the tooling becoming older. Just like on 705 that share many parts from its predecessor. Flashing here and there.
Do not care much about the bathces, everything has its trade off. Think of it this way, the later the production is, sure there will be improvement here and there but also there will be another problems as the tooling becoming older. Just like on 705 that share many parts from its predecessor. Flashing here and there.
The batch number was the only thing we could think of.
#8646
Originally posted by PSI Racing
Thanks D.
I guess I'll stick with the one way for now.
The tracks I go to are fast, high traction tracks.
I was thinking of getting the front ball diff in case I go to a different track.
Thanks D.
I guess I'll stick with the one way for now.
The tracks I go to are fast, high traction tracks.
I was thinking of getting the front ball diff in case I go to a different track.
Anyway like Julius say, you can tune the balance of the car by playing with the front ball diff. Useful if you race on tighter tracks.
For this weekend, I intend to se tthe car back for oneway front. It's been "some time" since I ran the car with a oneway front. Mid way, I'll change to front ball diff. It's a very huge track where most cars run out of breath and only cars like NTC3 and Serpent are ably geared.
#8647
Originally posted by InitialD
What do you think? It's too nice to put it on !
What do you think? It's too nice to put it on !
#8648
Originally posted by markp27
I know the feeling - I only put my 6 on my EVO III for a couple of laps, then took it off because I didn't want to damage it
I know the feeling - I only put my 6 on my EVO III for a couple of laps, then took it off because I didn't want to damage it
#8649
Originally posted by InitialD
Perhaps I'll get another one and put on a simple paint scheme and when I bash it up, at least I won't feel guilty or hurt crashed_1's feelings !
Perhaps I'll get another one and put on a simple paint scheme and when I bash it up, at least I won't feel guilty or hurt crashed_1's feelings !
#8650
Originally posted by PSI Racing
kreidel wanted to know if there was any way of knowing what kit had the new parts in it.
The batch number was the only thing we could think of.
kreidel wanted to know if there was any way of knowing what kit had the new parts in it.
The batch number was the only thing we could think of.
#8651
Tech Addict
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 590
From: Auckland,New Zealand
Ok had just a little run of the car (running back in the engine care of baxter c)
and i find that the droop setting screws work there way out of the alu holding the top on! if i use thread lock is there any that i can use that wont so much lock it in just keep it there as i am worried that if i lock them in i will never get them out!
and i find that the droop setting screws work there way out of the alu holding the top on! if i use thread lock is there any that i can use that wont so much lock it in just keep it there as i am worried that if i lock them in i will never get them out!
#8652
Originally posted by Voodo_Magic
Ok had just a little run of the car (running back in the engine care of baxter c)
and i find that the droop setting screws work there way out of the alu holding the top on! if i use thread lock is there any that i can use that wont so much lock it in just keep it there as i am worried that if i lock them in i will never get them out!
Ok had just a little run of the car (running back in the engine care of baxter c)
and i find that the droop setting screws work there way out of the alu holding the top on! if i use thread lock is there any that i can use that wont so much lock it in just keep it there as i am worried that if i lock them in i will never get them out!
Cheers, Mark.
#8653
Tech Addict
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 590
From: Auckland,New Zealand
Originally posted by markp27
I use the Tamiya thread lock and it is a kind of rubbery type glue which won't prevent you from removing the screws. Don't put too much on, though - a dab is enough.
Cheers, Mark.
I use the Tamiya thread lock and it is a kind of rubbery type glue which won't prevent you from removing the screws. Don't put too much on, though - a dab is enough.
Cheers, Mark.
Thanks mark i will try that
#8654
Originally posted by Voodo_Magic
Ok had just a little run of the car (running back in the engine care of baxter c)
and i find that the droop setting screws work there way out of the alu holding the top on! if i use thread lock is there any that i can use that wont so much lock it in just keep it there as i am worried that if i lock them in i will never get them out!
Ok had just a little run of the car (running back in the engine care of baxter c)
and i find that the droop setting screws work there way out of the alu holding the top on! if i use thread lock is there any that i can use that wont so much lock it in just keep it there as i am worried that if i lock them in i will never get them out!
Don't worry about not being able to take out the droop screws. Use a blue thread lock. Not the red one. The droop screws tend to be a little loose on the aluminum piece where the front droop screws are at.
#8655
Tech Addict
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 590
From: Auckland,New Zealand
Originally posted by InitialD
I forgot to mention that I used a little thread lock on those droop screws on mine !
Don't worry about not being able to take out the droop screws. Use a blue thread lock. Not the red one.
The droop screws tend to be a little loose on the aluminum piece where the front droop screws are at.
I forgot to mention that I used a little thread lock on those droop screws on mine !
Don't worry about not being able to take out the droop screws. Use a blue thread lock. Not the red one. The droop screws tend to be a little loose on the aluminum piece where the front droop screws are at.
Oh yea just read your posts in the G4 thread GREAT POSTS!
a true serpent fan (maybe replacing Ralph Burch?)



