You need to tighten them down real hard. If not, the screw will loosen and the clutch gap will widen when you're playing. There will come to a point when your clutch will not engage because the gap is too far. Just talking from experience...

Come to think of it, I burned two clutch bearings simultaneously in the Thailand race ! I think it was due to an accident that made the pinion and spur hit the ground and causing the clutch bell to wobble and burn the 2 normal bearings at the same time.

Yes I agree with Julius. That is why someone pointed it out to me that modifying and cutting the current flyweights and putting them in between the post, may cause inconsistant clutch engagement. It is better to use a clutch shoe and cut it to use as flyweights instead as I pointed out some post ago. Making the flyweights from the clutch shoe would make it have a more slanted slop that can go in and out equally when used as flyweights.

Hey Luis, first of all, welcome aboard !

Yes, putting the shims below to move the upper arm above makes the bottom and upper arms angle less = low roll center.

With low roll center, you get more grip because low roll center allows that part of the car to roll. Lower front roll center, more front roll, more front grip. Sometimes too much that you can flip = traction roll.

You just need to gease the thrust bearing. Not too much. Else, you'll make the clutch performance worse as the grease will go on the clutch shoes / clutch bell and slip !

Like I mentioned previously, the best is to cut up the clutch shoe to make them as flyweights. Cut them exactly where the edges of the holes are so that at the end, the fit of the 3 flyweights will be exactly in between the post.

To lighten these modded flyweights, you could first rim out the extra part of the clutch shoes where the spring cup sits before cutting them up at the holes.

Ambient temps where I run are about the same as yours. But I would think we have more humidity here than where you are.

I run a No. 6TF on my NovaMax engine with 25% nitro. I add 0.1 mm copper shim to stock aluminum one (total is 0.4 mm). Sings very well. You could take a peek at Motorman's engine tuning guide. Use a plug which gives you the best performance.

Anybody know where I can get this Mugen Super Grease? I've tried that part # that you gave me "D" at my LHS and when they put it in the computer it shows that, that part # doesn't exist? I've also tried the part # in RC-Mushroom but they don't carry it as well. Could someone please let me know where I can get this stuff. Thanks.

True. The race in Thailand that I attended gave a very nice flywheel holder souvenier tool that has these prefixed measurements for the Centax clutch on the handle where you can slot to check the measurements. They go from 0.4 to 0.9 mm fixed measurements. I've used that since.

Anyway, that does not exlude one to own a caliper.

The AE black grease is OK but not as sticky as the Mugen Super Grease. They are VERY sticky and last longer.

Agreed.

Just found that Microrcshop has the Super Grease in stock. I'd hate to make a special order just for that but the stuff really sounds killer. A special order it is!

The part number does exist !

The Border

I think i am going to sell my HUDY gauges, because i dont thing they are very functional.. and I mistaken? I think a camber gauge is just fine. However how is toe in set with a reular camber gauge (front and rear)

I hear that graphite grease is even better. Have you tried that?

Dry or wet graphite grease? I have tired neither. But dry graphite grease will just be blown away easily. What you need is something sticky.