I havent gotten them yet but i bought the ones that were closest to the spring rate that I was currently using.

thanks

Thanks.

Is anyone running the GHEA pistons? If so which ones do you recommend?

Update:

I installed my BB conversion and I have to say, I like the way it sits. You don't have to use as much preload and it rebounds really quickly. Ended up leaving my original setup the same but moved the shock to the middle hole on the front tower. Used silver and pink. I'll be trying it out tomorrow at the track!

After a very long lay off, I have started racing again. I have just recently switched from a 10.5 Tekin to a 17.5 Tekin (Tekin RS esc) because the club has just started a 1/10 buggy "blinky" class, which is much better suited for my basic driving skills. The car is a mix of B4/B4.1 parts, and handles very well. I am currently using 5000mah 40C batteries. Timing is maxed, current gearing is 34/75, but I am going to continue to push the gearing until I start hitting safe max temps. My question is, I see that Orion make a 90C battery. Will it make a noticeable difference, or are the 40C sufficient? Thanks

Hello All, I purchased a Carbon Top Plate for my B4.1 and there is no hole to put the screw in that you put the body pin in. Is this just a piece of flash that needs to be drilled out or do they not come with the hole?

Thank You,
Jon

I'm sure you would see a difference in the two batteries, but I don't know anyone who uses that high of a C rating. It's probably a little overkill IMO. If you're looking for faster lap times a little practice will go a lot futher than buying a 250 dollar battery. The thought of spending that much on a battery makes me cringe lol. I just use 20-40C batteries and they haven't failed me yet -normally if I don't place well in a race it's because I wrecked 12 times in the first 4 laps

They might be expecting you to use velcro.. That is weird...

WE all put together...box stock for now...running in stock...

17.5 Fantom Apex w/Orion R10 Pro in blinky...

I have a diff gear question. Some times the big gear in the trans is black and other times its yellowish. Anyone know the difference in them besides the color?

Stay away from the black diff gear and use the yellow gear. I tried the black one and it seamed that the material would produce a fine powder and would pack the teeth of the diff gear. It would become noisy and not smooth.

higher C batteries do make a differance in stock racing, better punch out of corners and less voltage drop during the race.
their is a differance between 40C to 60-65C but i haven't seen much of a increase in performance by using the 90C.

I agree with you a 100% about the driving, and trust me, I have a long way to go before I am consistent. That said, I am looking to the future as my driving "rust" is finally starting to fall off. As far as the price of the battery, at amain it's "only" $105.00. But, back to my original question will there be a tangible difference?

YES. In stock that extra burst you can get in a higher C rated pack can allow you to get more gear on the motor and can give you the edge, but of course its only marginal. if you feel like you need it then i say go for it but personally I run 60 C shorty packs and have never wanted to drop 100 on a 90C orion. lol but I also run mod.

OK. Thanks. You've answered my question.