arggggg...the darn on/off switch is bad in my rtr kit.. first time using it and it doesn't even work right. if I tap it with my finger it cuts off. gotta go buy a switch and mod the wires on a brand new part...(bangs head on desk)

guess I better just rip the whole buggy apart and go over it all...should have just bought the FT kit.

I always end up spending more on a RTR kit that ends up fully upgraded lol.

If I were you, just solder the two connections to a new switch or something.

yeah that's the plan. darn closest shop doesn't have any right now of course..

buku makes a metal to plastic thread locker.

http://www.bukupower.com/Threadlocker.aspx

forget the switch all together. Put wires together and just un plug the battery and have fun.

That's what I did. Just soldered the red/black wires together. No more issues..... just unplug the battery when not in use.

Loctite will work in plastic just not with the same strength.

On a long pack or wolf pack with a mod motor you can easily get away with a 15 minute run with no worries. I'd say run a maximum of 20 minutes. And you don't have to worry about wires touching unless one of them is connected to the terminal of the battery. Don't plug it in backwards with bullets or you'll fry your esc and/or battery.

Planning to upgrade the shocks and was wondering what is the diff from the Big Bore shocks vs the V2 ones? What should I get?

Also what spring and weight oil should I get?

I also heard a lot about different pistons, whats the difference between all of them? Which should I get?

Trying to get as much info because I plan on putting an order tomorrow since I need them ASAP.

All information provided is thanks for :P

Does anyone know what length my sensor wire should be? 75mm,100mm or 125mm for my buggy. Thanks

The big bores are more forgiving and make the car more plush. They will make the car feel more lazy on turn in. I'm running on 100% clay and i've been using green springs all the way around with 1.6 pistons and 30 weight in the front 27.5 in the rear. My car has a slight under steer but it's very stable. Gray front springs and white rear is another good combo but it'll make the car more stiffly sprung. There are 3 pistons: 1.5, 1.6, 1.7 and the number is based on the diameter of the hole in the piston. A smaller diameter means that less shock oil will be able to pass through the holes. This will make the car have more damping and the holes will pack up faster so it doesn't bottom out as easy on big jumps. A large diameter is the opposite it will give you less damping, make the car feel softer, and it will bottom out easier over jumps. And remember the softer the car the more grip you'll create but a softer car does not transfer the weight as quickly.

Shouldn't it be the opposite on oil for the setup? Since the rear has more weight and need a higher weight oil? I prefer not to bottom out but to have enough to just land and take off immediately. Sounds like 1.5 would be nice, but 1.6 to be on the safe side.

Compared to the stock RTR shocks, would the stock be considered a lot of bottom out and such?

Also would like info between the Big Bores against V2 and some knowledge on V2's.

Thanks everyone

Nopee the front is always stiffer than the rear in 2wd. The v2 or stock shocks bottom out A LOT more than the big bores. In general v2s will make the car a little bit more nimble but the big bores make the car a lot more consistent and easy to drive. I drive with and talk to a lot of the associated guys like steven hartson and kody numendahl. They all say to start with 1.6 pistons 30 wt front and 27.5 rear 3 limiters front 2 limiters rear and gray front springs white rear (although steven runs kyosho springs because he's a cheater).

relatively, the use of lower weight oil in the rear is to let the car squat for more grip and for the front to be sligthly stiffer to give the rear more grip while off power and also to calm down the steering with a slight push. depending on the surface and temp is how you setup your shocks/springs. i use the 1.6's with the same oils referred above and the balance is great. the v2's are still good shocks but has a prone effect to bottoming out faster on bigger jumps due to lack of oil capacity. some still use them with great results and theres lots of setups available with the v2's. i would use big bore springs on the v2 if your going that route. big bore springs help with the bottoming out and also does not rub on the shock bodies compared to the stock springs. i would ask around your local track and get the tires that work for that track. tires are key to getting the car to stay glued to any surface you race/practice on and then work your suspension from there. hope this helps some

D