RC10B4.1 FT/WC
Pushing under power:
Try loosening your dif a little (don't forget to reset the slipper). Iirc the battery was full forward, try moving it back 1/2 way then full back. Try 1/2* more camber in front. Try 1/2* less camber rear. Shorten the front camber link, lengthen the rear camber link. Raise the rear ball stud. Lower the front ball stud. Depending on where you are currently you may have to reverse the advice for the camber links & ball studs. Do 1 change at a time & drive at least 5-10 laps between each change. Iirc it handled well everywhere else but pushed on power coming out of tight corners, if this is the case I expect the dif will fix it (I am assuming your dif works properly & is smooth).
+1 the only change so far that has lowered my lap times is the +8 chassis. But the triad/vts seem to be more consistent
Last edited by Wildcat1971; 12-02-2012 at 03:18 PM.
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Awe... Remember the good o'l days when we used to talk about big bores?
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Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 373
Whats up all!!
Can I use losi wheels and still maintain legal track width? I came accross someone selling out and has a ton of fresh hex stuff but all on Losi wheels. I had heard the offset will have me not legal in track width. Any input is much appreciated!!!!
Kevin
Can I use losi wheels and still maintain legal track width? I came accross someone selling out and has a ton of fresh hex stuff but all on Losi wheels. I had heard the offset will have me not legal in track width. Any input is much appreciated!!!!
Kevin
I built my factory team sc10 last night and I so enjoyed it. If you
guys are looking for a good truck to build I advise you to bite the bullet and get it. Id buy a B4.1 IF i COULD DRIVE ONE...hard car to drive, too hard for my skills.
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From: Harrisburg, PA



