RC10B4.1 FT/WC
08-09-2012 | 11:37 AM
Tech Legend
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 22,595
From: TRCR Modified Driver
If you can feel the difference between standard plastic and graphite arms then congratulations because you are in the upper percentile of people that can.
In all the testing that I have done going back and forth between arms, I was not able to conclusively show with lap times that one was better than the other, and I would paypal some $10 if they could show me evidence with laptimes running back and forth throughout the course of a day that one was better than the other.
Ft carbon arms make for a subtle change in steering .(less)
Rear carbon arms make a noticeable change in traction (less)
plastic or carbon neither is better then the other .
Rather just another Ae tuning option .
less traction ?
plastic rear arms may be good
Traction med to high ? Carbon rear arms may be good ..
Most use the carbon ft arm no matter where , cus B4.1 already has lots of steering.
08-09-2012 | 12:11 PM
08-09-2012 | 12:33 PM
Looking at http://www.redrc.net/ I dont get why so many Europeans use/race nitro?
Its less popular here, but more there? Wasn't this flipped years ago?
Its less popular here, but more there? Wasn't this flipped years ago?
08-09-2012 | 12:33 PM
Everything you said is correct.
But I guess I wouldn't say that less ackerman is harder to drive, but I just think of it as twitchier off center. The only section of the track where it is harder to drive I think is usually at the end of the straight because the car is so responsive off-center. This can cause you too turn in too early if you are not used to it, or in really high bite tracks if you turn-in too fast you can traction roll. But everywhere else on the track less ackerman makes the car feel more precise and it is really nice, especially coming onto the straight where the car can keep hugging the pipe on corner exit.
More ackerman, makes it easier to throw the car into the corner and steer from the rear as opposed to having the front do all the work.
On most indoor clay tracks I would suggest running the rear rack location, which is less ackerman. It is definitely an underated tuning option since most people obsess over shocks a little too much.
But I guess I wouldn't say that less ackerman is harder to drive, but I just think of it as twitchier off center. The only section of the track where it is harder to drive I think is usually at the end of the straight because the car is so responsive off-center. This can cause you too turn in too early if you are not used to it, or in really high bite tracks if you turn-in too fast you can traction roll. But everywhere else on the track less ackerman makes the car feel more precise and it is really nice, especially coming onto the straight where the car can keep hugging the pipe on corner exit.
More ackerman, makes it easier to throw the car into the corner and steer from the rear as opposed to having the front do all the work.
On most indoor clay tracks I would suggest running the rear rack location, which is less ackerman. It is definitely an underated tuning option since most people obsess over shocks a little too much.
Less ackerman = rear holes (towards rear of car)?
More ackerman = forward holes?
08-09-2012 | 12:46 PM
Everything you said is correct.
But I guess I wouldn't say that less ackerman is harder to drive, but I just think of it as twitchier off center. The only section of the track where it is harder to drive I think is usually at the end of the straight because the car is so responsive off-center. This can cause you too turn in too early if you are not used to it, or in really high bite tracks if you turn-in too fast you can traction roll. But everywhere else on the track less ackerman makes the car feel more precise and it is really nice, especially coming onto the straight where the car can keep hugging the pipe on corner exit.
More ackerman, makes it easier to throw the car into the corner and steer from the rear as opposed to having the front do all the work.
On most indoor clay tracks I would suggest running the rear rack location, which is less ackerman. It is definitely an underated tuning option since most people obsess over shocks a little too much.
But I guess I wouldn't say that less ackerman is harder to drive, but I just think of it as twitchier off center. The only section of the track where it is harder to drive I think is usually at the end of the straight because the car is so responsive off-center. This can cause you too turn in too early if you are not used to it, or in really high bite tracks if you turn-in too fast you can traction roll. But everywhere else on the track less ackerman makes the car feel more precise and it is really nice, especially coming onto the straight where the car can keep hugging the pipe on corner exit.
More ackerman, makes it easier to throw the car into the corner and steer from the rear as opposed to having the front do all the work.
On most indoor clay tracks I would suggest running the rear rack location, which is less ackerman. It is definitely an underated tuning option since most people obsess over shocks a little too much.
08-09-2012 | 01:32 PM
Tech Initiate
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 30
CVA solid pins breaking?
I have broken 5 of the solid pins that link the bone to the axle in 5 runs. 4 on the left then on a new layout first run broke a right one... They are breaking when I roll onto the throttle thru on a corner exit while the car is on the ground; breaking on the inside wheel. This is a Worlds kit (9040), hex wheel adapters and the factory set up. I am running a Reedy 7.5 w/ stock timing and a Reedy 4000 2s shorty. The car only has 5 full runs on it.
Has anyone else seen this? Solutions? Ideas?
In the pics you’re seeing that the pin is bent on one side and broken off on the other.
Has anyone else seen this? Solutions? Ideas?
In the pics you’re seeing that the pin is bent on one side and broken off on the other.
08-09-2012 | 01:40 PM
I know! I have this and I was wondering what it was called so I can look it up on this app.
thank you to everyone for their help
08-09-2012 | 01:48 PM
I have broken 5 of the solid pins that link the bone to the axle in 5 runs. 4 on the left then on a new layout first run broke a right one... They are breaking when I roll onto the throttle thru on a corner exit while the car is on the ground; breaking on the inside wheel. This is a Worlds kit (9040), hex wheel adapters and the factory set up. I am running a Reedy 7.5 w/ stock timing and a Reedy 4000 2s shorty. The car only has 5 full runs on it.
Has anyone else seen this? Solutions? Ideas?
In the pics you’re seeing that the pin is bent on one side and broken off on the other.
Has anyone else seen this? Solutions? Ideas?
In the pics you’re seeing that the pin is bent on one side and broken off on the other.
08-09-2012 | 02:06 PM
I have broken 5 of the solid pins that link the bone to the axle in 5 runs. 4 on the left then on a new layout first run broke a right one... They are breaking when I roll onto the throttle thru on a corner exit while the car is on the ground; breaking on the inside wheel. This is a Worlds kit (9040), hex wheel adapters and the factory set up. I am running a Reedy 7.5 w/ stock timing and a Reedy 4000 2s shorty. The car only has 5 full runs on it.
Has anyone else seen this? Solutions? Ideas?
In the pics you’re seeing that the pin is bent on one side and broken off on the other.
Has anyone else seen this? Solutions? Ideas?
In the pics you’re seeing that the pin is bent on one side and broken off on the other.
I have gone through 4 sets of CVA's and 5 idler gears due to landing on the throttle from a jump.
08-09-2012 | 02:11 PM
They say to use the clip or the set screw, not both. I use the set screw. the clip alone didn't work for me, kept falling off.
08-09-2012 | 02:17 PM
Suspended
iTrader: (12)
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 1,990
08-09-2012 | 02:22 PM
