Speed Passion Thread
#3573
I have a mmm 10.5 motor and the sensor board will not tighten,when the motor can screws are tight you can still move the sensor left to right..Took it apart and nothing is broken..Motor is pretty new??? My other motor are v3.0's
#3574
Tech Apprentice
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 72
Retail shop, or
SP CS support - http://www.speedpassion.net/en/wheretobuy.asp
for further support.
#3578
from what was discussed, the answer is unsure.
Reason being, all the testing that was being done by Speed Passion they were trying to boost the motors which is a big no no with Pro4s.
No new information on any further testing with Pro4's, which I am not too surprised as I believe they may be focusing on the blaze 550 motor that from what I can tell hasn't been released in the USA.
If you want to try it, you will want to use blinky mode to start and see it goes.
Reason being, all the testing that was being done by Speed Passion they were trying to boost the motors which is a big no no with Pro4s.
No new information on any further testing with Pro4's, which I am not too surprised as I believe they may be focusing on the blaze 550 motor that from what I can tell hasn't been released in the USA.
If you want to try it, you will want to use blinky mode to start and see it goes.
#3580
Tech Rookie
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 6
I am currently running a Schumacher cougar svr with a reventon pro esc and speed passion 13.5 motor. can someone give me some advise on what the best running mode and timing I should run to get the most performance out of this setup. thanks
#3581
Can you run boost?
#3582
I recently got the SP Reventon Pro ESC with SP v3.0 5.5T motor to put in my dex410.
It has been working great so far with no issues, It has been run indoors for the whole time until yesterday with the first outdoor race of the season.
I ran it a bit on the track and it got up to 140 after a good 7-8 minutes, ran it in a 6 minute heat and I must have driven it a bit more aggressively as it got up to 147F
After the race I smelt that burnt electronics smell so I decided to take the esc off the car to take a look at the bottom of it, sure enough there was a small black area on the bottom of the ESC, it was probably 5-6mm in diameter. it was on the bottom right side of the ESC as shown in the picture,

It still seems to be working fine as I was able to race another heat and a main on it without any issues, I geared it down to be on the safe side but I would not think 147F would damage my ESC?
Any suggestions on why this happend would be great and what I could do about it?
It has been working great so far with no issues, It has been run indoors for the whole time until yesterday with the first outdoor race of the season.
I ran it a bit on the track and it got up to 140 after a good 7-8 minutes, ran it in a 6 minute heat and I must have driven it a bit more aggressively as it got up to 147F
After the race I smelt that burnt electronics smell so I decided to take the esc off the car to take a look at the bottom of it, sure enough there was a small black area on the bottom of the ESC, it was probably 5-6mm in diameter. it was on the bottom right side of the ESC as shown in the picture,

It still seems to be working fine as I was able to race another heat and a main on it without any issues, I geared it down to be on the safe side but I would not think 147F would damage my ESC?
Any suggestions on why this happend would be great and what I could do about it?
#3583
Tech Apprentice
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 72
I recently got the SP Reventon Pro ESC with SP v3.0 5.5T motor to put in my dex410.
It has been working great so far with no issues, It has been run indoors for the whole time until yesterday with the first outdoor race of the season.
I ran it a bit on the track and it got up to 140 after a good 7-8 minutes, ran it in a 6 minute heat and I must have driven it a bit more aggressively as it got up to 147F
After the race I smelt that burnt electronics smell so I decided to take the esc off the car to take a look at the bottom of it, sure enough there was a small black area on the bottom of the ESC, it was probably 5-6mm in diameter. it was on the bottom right side of the ESC as shown in the picture,

It still seems to be working fine as I was able to race another heat and a main on it without any issues, I geared it down to be on the safe side but I would not think 147F would damage my ESC?
Any suggestions on why this happend would be great and what I could do about it?
It has been working great so far with no issues, It has been run indoors for the whole time until yesterday with the first outdoor race of the season.
I ran it a bit on the track and it got up to 140 after a good 7-8 minutes, ran it in a 6 minute heat and I must have driven it a bit more aggressively as it got up to 147F
After the race I smelt that burnt electronics smell so I decided to take the esc off the car to take a look at the bottom of it, sure enough there was a small black area on the bottom of the ESC, it was probably 5-6mm in diameter. it was on the bottom right side of the ESC as shown in the picture,

It still seems to be working fine as I was able to race another heat and a main on it without any issues, I geared it down to be on the safe side but I would not think 147F would damage my ESC?
Any suggestions on why this happend would be great and what I could do about it?
#3584
Everything in the motor looks fine, the Capacitor also still seems to work fine from what I can tell without taking it apart (no bulging sides or solder connection) I'm running the stock motor timing (even space on both sides of the timing adjustment)
Here are the settings on the ESC, If you can see anything that might be raising my temps and wont effect the performance much it would be appreciated if you could point them out.
The one thing I'm confused with is DRRS, From what I understand this is going to limit my motors acceleration and power if I lower the number?
Here are the settings on the ESC, If you can see anything that might be raising my temps and wont effect the performance much it would be appreciated if you could point them out.
The one thing I'm confused with is DRRS, From what I understand this is going to limit my motors acceleration and power if I lower the number?
#3585
I also would like some further information about what drrs is & how it works. I have kind of gathered it is similar to a combination of the current limiter function (slower acceleration with out affecting top speed) of a tekin & the frequency option (acceleration smoothing, sort of) of the viper, but I may be off on this. A primer on the drrs function would be greatly appreciated from some one in the know.



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