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aww, I wish the vtx10 went to 8v. After the drop in the system, I think I am showing 6.7 volts at the servo.
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Nikos2002 your honesty is much appreciated, I will more then likely wait till the new viper motors come out
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There is always a little drop that registers through the system when you measure at the servo - to many wires and everything for the voltage to go through.
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pro tech tip for the day.....
For 2wd mod buggy, try the 12.0 and 12.3 rotors. They offer a different power band than the std 12.5. If you are running on high bite and want more grunt, try the 12.8 rotor. :) |
I just run the big block motors and limit forward power and punch :)
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Originally Posted by Bob Barry
(Post 12698670)
pro tech tip for the day.....
For 2wd mod buggy, try the 12.0 and 12.3 rotors. They offer a different power band than the std 12.5. If you are running on high bite and want more grunt, try the 12.8 rotor. :) I've been wanting to try the 12.8 in my mod truck. Big difference? (: |
Also how were the 12.3 and 12.0 vs the 12.5?
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Paul Sinclair raves about the 12.8 in everything. Fred Perkins was using it too based off his suggestion and said it was very good. I prefer the 12.3 power band.
The 12.3 and 12.0 change the power band. They take away some of the low end and add high end. |
Ok kool
Gonna try the 12.8's |
I convinced a local fast guy to put a Viper VTX10R BE in his 4wd 1/10. After I explained/showed him all the features, he was sold.....
Now to get Viper into the rest of his fleet. :) |
Viper have any plans to make a "Just Stock" style ESC that would be USVTA legal?
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What's funny is that in some parts of the country people use our esc's in USVTA events in blinky mode, which is all that it really is. I understand the "just stock" idea, but its more extreme measure - that you have to make a special speed control to avoid people cheating. BTW, all that is needed is a software loaded into it that would change it regardless.
Long story is right now no. Our speed control has a very distinctive blinky mode and indicator. It doesn't play tricks, its a different color than forward, brake or power lights - so no tricks. We want to sell you a speedo that will last you a long time and be able to used across multiple racing platforms. |
from what I am understanding, for USVTA that have a set list of escs that they have tested for parity. in ROAR VTA its blinky or other. From what some have said doing this, they have seen a performance boost, maybe do to lower resistance or power output of the higher end escs even in blinky?
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anyone have any boosting advice or in sites? I am not talking about monitor temps and blah blah. More like advanced stuff. Here have been my observations. I normally run 1/2 the advanced timing as I do boost. So 30 deg boost and 15deg advanced timing. I often try to set my start rpm low, at like 2k. So I can get more power at low rpm's coming out of a 180 into a triple, etc. I normally leave the top rpm at 12k for 13.5 and 17.5 boosting. As of late, I am playing with mixing motor and esc timing. Why? Well motor timing is ALWAYS there. Where as, esc timing kicks at a given rpm and ramps up. I feel you can mix them to get more performance for temperature. So, recently I tried this with a reedy. motor and viper esc. they ship with 20deg timing and are often raced with 35-40 on the car. So I went to 30 on the can and then 2k start 12k, with 15 deg timing and 5 deg advanced timing. with a slew of 4. Perfornace was fine and it felt pretty smooth, but even a few degrees of motor timing with added esc timing, make heat pretty quick. I make small changes and check temps often while testing. Anyway, this is something i am messing with in practice. Any thoughts on a better way to approach it.?
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I just purchased a VIP6VSVT10R06 for my used 44 associated buggy. some help on settings with pin and elect settings would be a great help if any one wants to chime in.. small track in Kingman Az. Thanks any one in advance.
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