Thanks. Make sure I'm reading you right. If I stay with the same turn I would be able to gear up possibly and would have more torque than my current motor or go up a turn for similar rpm but in theory still probably a little more torque but have higher rpm?

It would depend a bit on your driving style. Gearing up with the same turn, to give yourself a similar top speed, you loose a little torque. Going to a turn lower motor, would feel similar but your moving how the power band reacts, and it might feel lazy on the bottom end.

I'm really happy with viper products.

One issue iv found is I can't gear my cars any higher to match speeds of other cars at the track because I physically can't fit bigger pinions etc

you should be able to go to a smaller spur gear and achieve the gearing you need.

just to clarify what is the difference between the 10r and 10r black versions

Hey I hav the vx4.39 combo and last week I blew the motor bearing on the shaft. What size is it? My hobby shop didn't hav a size that fit it cuz its a weird size

Thanks guys for the reply's. Am going to try the 7.5t. The local pro got back to me after I ordered it from my lhs. He said to get the 6.5t. I have a big race this weekend and wanted the new motor. Worst case I sell it and get the 6.5t lol

Different color faceplate.

Everything we learned when we did Black Edition, went into new versions of the Orange. For over a year (maybe little more), they have been the same, just different colors.

Regular brushless motor bearings.

PM me with what you are running - what car. We'll figure something out. :tire:

Micro stutter problem.

I'm new to the hobby and recently purchased the VTX10 BE combo with an 8.5 motor. I'm really impressed with the build quality. Feels like a decent piece of kit.

I'm experiencing a problem at the track. About 5 minutes into a run, the vehicle starts to micro-stutter and then loose all drive. If it sits for a few seconds, then it will drive again, but only for another couple of minutes before stuttering and cutting out again.

There was no flashing lights or beeping indication that I noticed. I read the temps with a gun on the motor at 130F and the ESC 110F.

The 2S 4600mah Lipo is fully charged.

The EZ Link settings are the default Profile #1. The only thing I've changed was the drag brake. The LVC is 6.0V and the ESC/Motor cut-off are both 220F.

The timing on the motor is set at the factory 30 degrees and I haven't changed it.

A guy at the track said it may be a bad solder and to check for a warm wire indicating greater resistance. The wiring felt reasonably cool and consistent from wire to wire so I feel the connections and soldering are good.

Any ideas or troubleshooting methods to help narrow down the problem?

Few things are more frustrating than having to pull over in the A main with a minute to go!

Thanks!

Ryan

Ryan,

Check and see what the Thermal Protection is set at for the motor. I had a similiar problem, the thermal protection reads the motor temp as the stator so it will be hotter then the external part of the motor (anywhere from 30 to 50 degrees hotter). Set your motor Thermal Protection to 220 or 230 and give that a try.

The motor and the ESC have thermal protection set at 220F. That's the factory setting and I haven't changed it.

That esc temp cutoff is fine but the motor temp cutoff should be around 250 since it measures internal heat.

what's the rotor size in the 7.5t motor