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Here is the set used to place 2 car in the 4wd A Main at the World Championships.

Nick have you heard any word on the 1/8 motors coming in soon?

Are there any particular ESC set ups for 1/8 buggy people are using with buggy?

Will a vtx10r run a 4 pole motor in a 2wd sct? I am thinking of a tekin pro2

Not its noy 4 pole capable

well viper came through for me in a big way today just got 2 ecs's to replace 2 that happened to go bad on me and my son at LCRC a few weeks ago. Ruff day that day 2 esc's going down at a big event like that but viper put my mind at ease and took care of Both of the broken systems THANKS VIPER and Nick thanks for your help too. Sometimes things just go bad and they just stand behind there product 100%

Big Reason I Run Them!!!

Quote:

Originally Posted by weyant (Post 12709850)

Big Reason I Run Them!!! They are very helpful, and super quick!!! Just hoping the VF4 and VF8 hit market soon!!! Don't want to take a knife to a gun fight anymore!!!

Even tho I will admit I have a VTX10 hooked too a 17.5 Killshot, and last night I was the only buggy to clear the triple at PT. To bad my driving found a wall!!! LOL

+1 same here. Don't get me wrong, the SP gear I used, the newer stuff anyway as far as the GT2.0 and Sliver Arrow V2 line I have had no issues, but Viper attracted me as there warranty was very long and the VTX8 is race oriented for 1/10 4x4 SCT.

Love the ESCs, and I have always found great help here too. Thanks for making one heck of a product.

I do have a question for everyone that wants to check in. What Batteries are you running with your VTX10? my son and I run Nano Tech I really like them but wanted to see what the other racers are running with there VTX10

Quote:

Originally Posted by weyant (Post 12709974)

I have been running the ProTek 100c packs with 5mm bullets. I am very happy.
http://www.shopviperrc.com/ProductDe...-5600-2S100-P5

ok I need some esc setting. Running it all blinky and stock settings. I was running the viper 8.5 motor but switched to a tekin 8.5 gen2 cause my viper motor feels like it has 25% drag break on which I have no drag brake in my esc. Problem is my car does not seem to have the punch to clear jumps. I mean it does clear them but it is a struggle. Guys running 10.5's seem to have more punch and basically the same speed as I do. Running a 4.2 with the stock spur and a 23 tooth pinion. My lipos are good and fully charged

Quote:

Originally Posted by nikos2002 (Post 12708139)

Here is the set used to place 2 car in the 4wd A Main at the World Championships.

Nick, Are you sure that was for 2wd mod buggy? Blinky mode, no timing? Seems too tame for 4wd at the worlds...

Quote:

Originally Posted by Wildcat1971 (Post 12707393)

anyone have any boosting advice or in sites? I am not talking about monitor temps and blah blah. More like advanced stuff. Here have been my observations. I normally run 1/2 the advanced timing as I do boost. So 30 deg boost and 15deg advanced timing. I often try to set my start rpm low, at like 2k. So I can get more power at low rpm's coming out of a 180 into a triple, etc. I normally leave the top rpm at 12k for 13.5 and 17.5 boosting. As of late, I am playing with mixing motor and esc timing. Why? Well motor timing is ALWAYS there. Where as, esc timing kicks at a given rpm and ramps up. I feel you can mix them to get more performance for temperature. So, recently I tried this with a reedy. motor and viper esc. they ship with 20deg timing and are often raced with 35-40 on the car. So I went to 30 on the can and then 2k start 12k, with 15 deg timing and 5 deg advanced timing. with a slew of 4. Perfornace was fine and it felt pretty smooth, but even a few degrees of motor timing with added esc timing, make heat pretty quick. I make small changes and check temps often while testing. Anyway, this is something i am messing with in practice. Any thoughts on a better way to approach it.?

I am not an engineer, so take this as my 2 cents only. If you are running a 13.5 (3300kv) x the battery voltage, you will get the max rpm of the motor. So, for easy math, we can assume max RPM of 3,000 x 8 = 23,000 RPM. An electric motor will make the most power from 0 rpms up to about 50% of max. So, in this case, you are building power up to around 12,000 RPM. If you set your start RPM too low, there will be much more heat generated since the motor is already pulling hard plus you are adding timing. I would set your start RPM around 50% or a little lower and your end RPM around 100% RPM so the motor builds power from a dead stop through max RPM. in blinky, if you were to see the power curve of the motor, it will start dropping at 50% rpm. With the ability to add timing at that 50% point, the power curve will keep climbing, or at least remain level - all the way down the front stretch! :nod:
DISCLAIMER - I think... ;):ha: But, this is how I set up my timing.

@JKAS10 yeah, I am no engineer either, but. +10 deg on the can and 20 deg esc with 10 deg top end riming was STUPID fast and was only 135 deg. I was able to clear a camelback that pretty much only 7.5's could clear. It was pretty smooth on the power, but hard to tell because I am not used to that much power. I used the same rpm settings as I listed above. btw, this was in a 22 buggy with 28/76 gearing.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Wildcat1971 (Post 12710580)

Yeah man, I would agree that with those settings it would have tons of low end grunt. Did you notice if it lost any top end on the longer sections of the track?

honestly, the track was rutted on the straight and after I popped a wheely at full speed I didnt really bother again. The is a steel vertical bar fence on the straight. Its prime for ripping arms off. I had all of the speed I could want. Boosting is a science and I really wish it were legal. Sometimes I race mod and I only have a 17.5's and a 13.5. So I am kinda looking to see how much I can get out of a 13.5 or 17.5 for when I run mod. I feel like i have more power than I can effectively use with my current setting. Temps are good. I call it a win, win.